Flooring Tile - Bathroon floor suggestions
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skinut2234
03-01-09, 07:42 PM
I gutted the bath- I had to pull up the old tile and old cement backerboard. The plywoon subfloor is a bit uneven and I had to replaces some pieces (rafters are out of whack a bit).
What would be my best solution to install next over the plywood subfloor to make a nice flat surface for ceramic tile.
The next layer I use needs to be pretty thick-(Unless I use 2 different materials)- I'm down from the toilet flange about an inch and a quarter. Would it be best to pour some sort of concrete with mesh in it? (only issue I read on that is that it needs a long curing time before tiling over it- Would I be better off putting another laer of plywood and then backerboard?
What would be my best solution to install next over the plywood subfloor to make a nice flat surface for ceramic tile.
The next layer I use needs to be pretty thick-(Unless I use 2 different materials)- I'm down from the toilet flange about an inch and a quarter. Would it be best to pour some sort of concrete with mesh in it? (only issue I read on that is that it needs a long curing time before tiling over it- Would I be better off putting another laer of plywood and then backerboard?
HeresJohnny
03-02-09, 03:04 PM
The plywoon subfloor is a bit uneven and I had to replaces some pieces (rafters are out of whack a bit).
Give a little more description on this. How uneven is the floor? Are there structural problems?
When you add plywood or cement board to the floor, it will follow the contour of the existing subfloor. If there are corrections to be made to get the floor flat, thats done on top of the cement board.
Would it be best to pour some sort of concrete with mesh in it? (only issue I read on that is that it needs a long curing time before tiling over it
Not sure what kind of concrete you are talking about here. The floor could be mudded, or you could use self leveling compound. Neither one of these will need a long curing time. No more than 1 day the most.
Give a little more description on this. How uneven is the floor? Are there structural problems?
When you add plywood or cement board to the floor, it will follow the contour of the existing subfloor. If there are corrections to be made to get the floor flat, thats done on top of the cement board.
Would it be best to pour some sort of concrete with mesh in it? (only issue I read on that is that it needs a long curing time before tiling over it
Not sure what kind of concrete you are talking about here. The floor could be mudded, or you could use self leveling compound. Neither one of these will need a long curing time. No more than 1 day the most.
skinut2234
03-02-09, 05:11 PM
it's not too bad- no structural issues... just where a few of the subfloor sheets meet each other, there is maybe 1/16-1/8"
of a difference. That is what I met- If I pour approx 1" of the self leveling compound- will that make it easier to insure it's as level as can be - as opposed to cement backerboard?
Also- can I pour the self-leveler that thick?
of a difference. That is what I met- If I pour approx 1" of the self leveling compound- will that make it easier to insure it's as level as can be - as opposed to cement backerboard?
Also- can I pour the self-leveler that thick?
HeresJohnny
03-03-09, 07:16 AM
You could pour it 1" depending on which one you use. You may have to add aggregate. Slc is expense, and it can be challenging if you havent worked with it before. If you decide to go this route, read up on it first. Keep in mind, that the floor doesnt have to be perfectly level, but it must be pretty flat, no big peaks and valleys. It should be flat, no more than 1/4" out in 10'.
My suggestion. Screw the existing subfloor down securely every 6" with deck screws. Install another layer of 3/4" plywood exterior glue bc grade plywood. The second layer gets screwed to the subfloor only, not the floor joists. Use lots of screws, every 8" in the field and every 6" at the edges. Stagger the seams so they do not line up with the subfloor seams. Then you can used a 1/4" cement board or an isolation membrane like ditra over the 2 layers of plywood. That should get you close to the desired height and make for a nice strong floor.
My suggestion. Screw the existing subfloor down securely every 6" with deck screws. Install another layer of 3/4" plywood exterior glue bc grade plywood. The second layer gets screwed to the subfloor only, not the floor joists. Use lots of screws, every 8" in the field and every 6" at the edges. Stagger the seams so they do not line up with the subfloor seams. Then you can used a 1/4" cement board or an isolation membrane like ditra over the 2 layers of plywood. That should get you close to the desired height and make for a nice strong floor.