Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - Wiring specs on lighting supply conductor (wire?)

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NepalKat
02-25-09, 04:58 PM
This is my first post and I'm really hoping someone can help me with this.

Here's the background: I live in a house that was built in 1941. Much of the interior was refurbished before we bought it. The kitchen and dining room have cheap overhead fixtures that take three 60 watt bulbs each. The upstairs fixtures also have cheap fixtures, but they only take two dinky 15 watt teardrop bulbs each. One of these rooms I've made in to an office and I want to but more light in. So I bought a semi-flush fixture that takes three 60-watt bulbs and proceeded to (I thought) install it. Will the installation has stalled out because I have several questions I can't answer. Here they are:

(1) The instructions have a caution that reads, "WARNING - RISK OF FIRE! Most dwellings built before 1985 have supply wire rated 60 degrees C. Some fixtures require supply wire rated for temperatures greater than 60 degrees C and are so identified on packaging and on the fixtures supply wires. CONSULT A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN BEFORE INSTALLING."

(2) I don't have the bucks right now for an electrician to come in and tell me if the wiring will take a 90 degree C fixture --- which, not so conveniently, is what the new fixture is rated.

(3) Is there any way of knowing what the rating is on the wiring in the ceiling that I have to hook up the new fixture to?

(4) If there isn't, is there anything I can do short getting an electrician in to either do the job or rewire the room, and perhaps the whole damned house? I haven't got the money for either right now.

(5) Or should I just take the fixture back to Home Depot and forget about it?

Thank you for any help or advice you can offer me on this----I greatly appreciate it.


pcboss
02-25-09, 06:15 PM
If there is a way for you to see the jacket on the cable look for NM-B. This will be the 90 degree rated wire.

When was the house rehabbed? This may also give you an idea of the age of the wiring.

Short of this you could switch the fixture style to a pendant mount. These typically do not require the 90 degree insulation.

Tolyn Ironhand
02-25-09, 07:09 PM
"WARNING - RISK OF FIRE! Most dwellings built before 1985 have supply wire rated 60 degrees C. Some fixtures require supply wire rated for temperatures greater than 60 degrees C and are so identified on packaging and on the fixtures supply wires. CONSULT A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN BEFORE INSTALLING."

This is a pretty generic statement. By saying "Some fixtures..." they are just covering their butt. Does the fixture itself have a label or marking stating that you must use 90 degree wire? If it does then just get a piece of THHN wire and pig tail off the original wire. You will need some white for the neutral and some other color for the hot. (switch leg)

You can identify 90 degree wire pretty easily by the thin plastic insulation covering the wires. If it is fairly thick plastic insulation (maybe 1/16" all around) that is type TW and is only 60 degree. Everything else will be 60 degree wire.


pcboss
02-25-09, 07:51 PM
If it does then just get a piece of THHN wire and pig tail off the original wire. You will need some white for the neutral and some other color for the hot. (switch leg)



I doubt that this meet pass inspection. The heat emitted by the bulbs would affect all the wires in the junction box.

I have heard of adding a short length of 90 degree wiring into the old junction box and blanking off the old box while mounting the fixture on the new box.

Tolyn Ironhand
02-26-09, 08:03 AM
If you blank off the old box and install a new one to feed the light but still cover the old box with the fixture wouldn't you still have the heat issue? They are more concerned with the wires that are laying next to the fixture then the ones that are up inside the box.

Use CFLs. They will only give off about 1/4 the heat.

pcboss
02-26-09, 08:41 AM
The new box I was talking about was suggested about a foot away from the old box to avoid the heat issue. Due to spacing or aesthetics this may not always be possible. Fixtures below an accessible attic would be easier, just turn the old box up so it faces the attic and then run the new tail.

I agree that this warning is a pain, especially when the warning is only on the instructions or the fixture itself. It would be so much more helpful if it were plainly labeled on the outside of the box.