Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - removing and replacing tub
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Noviceman
02-19-09, 08:24 AM
Morning..Looking to remove and replace tub and tub surround..See a Lyons unit at Menards Acrylic...Never removed and replaced a tub before..have done sinks, toilets, dishwashers etc...Just looking for any nightmares I might face..Biggest question is about a slurry or whatever its called under the tub...Is that necessary for the new tubs??? I weigh 200 and my wife will only admit to 125...pretty close...I can get to all the plumbing through the dropped ceiling in the room below and have no problem ripping out some drywall to get to any other pipes etc...Just looking for best advise for this project....
Many thanks for any help...
Many thanks for any help...
furd
02-19-09, 05:14 PM
Biggest question is about a slurry or whatever its called under the tub...Is that necessary for the new tubs?
You need to follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter to be sure any warranty will be in effect.
Many manufacturer's require that "plastic" (acrylic, fiberglass, etc.) tubs be set in a mortar base. This is usually specified as either pre-mixed bagged mortar mix or a pre-mixed bagged sand/cement "topping" mix. Sometimes a plastic or roofing felt vapor retarder is called for between the mortar and a wood floor. If you have a concrete slab floor then no vapor retarder is necessary.
For my whirlpool tub I first painted two coats of Varathane on the wooden floor to seal it against moisture. I let it dry for 24 to 48 hours and then set the tub in place to measure the depth of mortar required and where it needed to be placed making marks on the floor. After moving the tub out of the way I mixed the topping mix a little on the stiff side so it wouldn't run when I dumped it on the floor. I moved it around to the area I previously marked and worked it to just slightly more than the required thickness, maybe a quarter inch more than required. I "cut" some grooves in the surface to allow for "squish" room when I placed the tub in the mortar. I pressed down on the tub rim until the tub feet were in firm contact with the floor and then used additional mortar to push into the mortar mass to fully support the tub being careful not to add too much mortar and raise the tub feet from the floor. Then I let it harden overnight.
The result is that my tub is rock-solid in place. I don't remember if I used one 60 pound bag of mix or two, I do have a six-foot long tub so I suspect I used two bags. I mixed it in a five gallon plastic bucket and I remember having some left over.
BTW, in the weight department I've got you beat by quite a margin. I wouldn't want to get in my tub if I hadn't placed the mortar support bed.
You need to follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter to be sure any warranty will be in effect.
Many manufacturer's require that "plastic" (acrylic, fiberglass, etc.) tubs be set in a mortar base. This is usually specified as either pre-mixed bagged mortar mix or a pre-mixed bagged sand/cement "topping" mix. Sometimes a plastic or roofing felt vapor retarder is called for between the mortar and a wood floor. If you have a concrete slab floor then no vapor retarder is necessary.
For my whirlpool tub I first painted two coats of Varathane on the wooden floor to seal it against moisture. I let it dry for 24 to 48 hours and then set the tub in place to measure the depth of mortar required and where it needed to be placed making marks on the floor. After moving the tub out of the way I mixed the topping mix a little on the stiff side so it wouldn't run when I dumped it on the floor. I moved it around to the area I previously marked and worked it to just slightly more than the required thickness, maybe a quarter inch more than required. I "cut" some grooves in the surface to allow for "squish" room when I placed the tub in the mortar. I pressed down on the tub rim until the tub feet were in firm contact with the floor and then used additional mortar to push into the mortar mass to fully support the tub being careful not to add too much mortar and raise the tub feet from the floor. Then I let it harden overnight.
The result is that my tub is rock-solid in place. I don't remember if I used one 60 pound bag of mix or two, I do have a six-foot long tub so I suspect I used two bags. I mixed it in a five gallon plastic bucket and I remember having some left over.
BTW, in the weight department I've got you beat by quite a margin. I wouldn't want to get in my tub if I hadn't placed the mortar support bed.