Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - Can you please help??

Our Frigidaire (model# FG6ra072c-12a) gas-fired furnace just quit working. It's appx. 5 y/o. When it tries to start, the "inducer motor" starts running...about 40 secs later, I hear a "click" and within a few seconds, the "hot surface" element glows bright, but no flame at all and the "inducer motor" never stops running. I know the obvious problem is no fuel but, just don't understand why the valve is not opening. Is the fuel valve supposed to open when the induce motor starts? If not, then when? The "status light" burns steady, in the beginning but, after the burner tries to ignite, the "status light" will blink "twice", one time, and then blink "three" times, until the system resets itself. The "three" blinking translates to this error message..."PRESSURE SWITCH IS CLOSED WHEN INDUCER IS OFF"?? Can someone please help me understand what is happening and hopefully direct/coach me on how to fix this?? Thanks very much! Brian

When the inducer starts the pressure switch should be open then close. The control board is reading that the pressure switch is closed all the time. Take the small hose off the end opposite the pressure switch & draw GENTLY on the hose with your mouth. You may or may not hear a click. If you do not, try a very slight bit of pressure & listen for the click. Sometimes you can free a stuck switch this way.
Sorry, I could not find the rest of the blink codes on their web site.

Thank you for replying Grady. I just tried testing the pressure switch and yes, with very light suction on the hose, I do hear a "click". Hooked the hose back up but, still no flame. Unfortunately, I had to have a repairman come and look at it today...still not working. He tried everything he knew and even called another tech and they both deduced that it must be the circuit board...which he then proceeded to tell me it would be about $600.00!! Maybe I heard wrong?! So far, I'm into that company for $145.00 for a service call and a cleaning of the flame sensor, which I can't believe he did knowing it probably has nothing to do with the situation considering their are no flames to trigger the sensor!! I am also still getting the "three blinking light" code. I'm not getting a good feeling about this repairman but, do I call a different co. for a second opinion??

sounds like your gas valve not opening up. i always try tapping it with something to get it to unstick. you need at least 22 volts for the valve to work also.

I love reading these stories. I can't believe what I read. Who ARE these "repairmen", anyway?

Did the repairman test the volts coming into and out of the pressure switch when the inducer ran?

Regarding spending $600 for a new board? I'd rather waste $150 on one I bought and installed myself, if say I made the wrong guess. Because then I'd still be $450 to the good! Do you think he would take back out the new control board and not charge you if that was not the problem? I would not trust this outfit. They do not sound like they know what they are doing. And if I hired ANYBODY to replace parts, (after hearing all these stories ai read about in this forum), I'd ask the company (whichever company), if they only charge for correct parts installed that fix the problem.

Do you have a volt meter & know how to use it? We can tell you what to check but you would have to have a meter. Often you can pick one up at a home center or Sears for under $30.

Post the make and model of the circuit board. That might help identify what's supposed to be going on.

I love reading these stories. I can't believe what I read. Who ARE these "repairmen", anyway?

Did the repairman test the volts coming into and out of the pressure switch when the inducer ran?

Regarding spending $600 for a new board? I'd rather waste $150 on one I bought and installed myself, if say I made the wrong guess. Because then I'd still be $450 to the good! Do you think he would take back out the new control board and not charge you if that was not the problem? I would not trust this outfit. They do not sound like they know what they are doing. And if I hired ANYBODY to replace parts, (after hearing all these stories ai read about in this forum), I'd ask the company (whichever company), if they only charge for correct parts installed that fix the problem.

Mind boggling.....isn't it!!

Thank you for all your comments and suggestions. I neglected to say that I am renting this house and have notified the landlord that he needs to make something happen and quick. I'm the type that if it isn't too expensive, I'll do it myself just to keep the landlord out of my hair because he tends to be just a bit on the wacky side. I did lay out the initial fee of $145.00 (service call and cleaning flame sensor) which is coming off the rent check but, I'll be darned if I'm laying out $685.00 for a circuit board which I don't totally believe is bad! I'm not an expert on furnaces but watching how the tech went about checking the system and listening to you all...I told the landlord to get a reliable, local company in there...somebody who's been in the business for quite a while and someone who has his name on his truck, whom will do the work himself, therefore, someone whose reputation lies in his work. I personally went in after the tech left and checked the volts to the fuel valve (which tech did not do!) which was at 25 volts. For all your info, the board is a NORDYNE # 624631-A. Was just notified that the L/L is going ahead and have the board replaced...it's his money. I hope for my sake and his thast this works and if not, have the tech take the board back...no sense paying if it won't work. I'll keep you asll updated as to what happens. Thanks again.

Brian, I hope you realize that by working on equipment that you do not own (living in a rental house) you are leaving your rear end wildly flapping in the wind when it comes to liability issues. Since you are not what most courts of law would consider an "expert" in what you are attempting to do you could very well be liable for ANY problems that arise as a result of your well-intentioned work. This could hold true even long after you move from this rental abode.

I know that having an unresponsive landlord can be extremely frustrating and it's no fun at all living without heat (or whatever) but do you really want to assume the liability? If I were you I'd either consider legal action against the landlord (via the landlord-tenant laws in your area) or I'd move.