Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - Adding a new oil tank

Hi,
I have a question on connecting output lines of 2 tanks (the supply to boiler) together.
I have an existing indoor 275 gal tank laying on its side. I added an extension to the house, so my consumption has increased.
I could not replace the existing tank as it is under the stairs in a tough place to get to.
I have added another 275 gal tank (standing up) at the same level as the other tank, but it is far from it.
I will have two seperate fills and vents, but I am unsure about how to connect the output of both tanks together.

Should I simply tee them together? Or would the new tank empty into the old since it stands up?

Any help would be appreciated.

Mike

I hate to tell you this but you've created a monster. Unless you absolutely need that much oil storage, I suggest you abandon one or the other.

I go through 1 tank of oil in about 3 weeks!!
I was hoping to reduce my chances of running out of oil all the time.
Why is this a monster?

Thanks, Mike

With the tops of the tanks being at different levels if you connected them together oil is going to flow from the highest point & try to level off. When that happens, the lower (flat) tank is going to overflow.

How about connecting the two lines using a T with a valve at each branch, so I can switch from one tank to the other alternately?

Mike

A pair of valves would work as long as you remembered to always turn one off. I have a couple of cutomers with multiple tanks who do that but it's no big deal if they forget because the tanks are all at the same level. In your application, if you forgot or the upper tank's valve leaked thru, you would have a real mess. In my opinion you would be best served by eliminating the indoor tank & installing a second upright next to the one you just installed.

Thanks for your replies.
Unfortunately there is no room for another tank. So i have to figure something out with what I have.
One last idea:

How about a pair of flow checks after the valves?
Or is there such a thing as a valve and T combination? something like a single pole double throw switch, if you know what I mean! ( rotate valve to one leg or other )

Thanks again
Mike

You should never install a check valve in the line of a single pipe system (one line to the fuel pump). To do so risks possible blow out of the shaft seal on the pump & a major mess.

OK forget the check valves, How about something like this:

Plumbing > Valves > Ball Valves > Three Way Ball Valve,3/8 In NPT,Brass : Grainger Industrial Supply (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1PYZ9?cm_mmc=Google%20Base-_-Plumbing-_-Valves-_-1PYZ9)

That looks like it would work but before I bought it I would want the answer to two questions: (1) Is there an "off" position? (2) Is it possible to have all ports even partially open at the same time?
If there is any possibility of feeding from one tank to the other, you are no better off than with two separate valves.
In order for this valve to be as goof proof as possible it should only open a given port to the common port after passing thru the off position.
I also noticed it is only listed to -4º.

I know I'm being a pain in the butt about this but neither of us wants an oil overflow. ;)

I understand your concerns.
(1) I was thinking of using a 3 way valve in addition to the individual fire shutoffs for each line.
(2) Even it there is a possibility of having both ports open at the same time, it would only be for a short time as you move from one to the other side. So I think the advantage is that you wont forget to shut off the empty tank this way as it is done in one motion.
Why would the -4º be a problem? if the house ever went to that temp i would have other major issues to worry about.

Regards,
Mike

I was thinking the new tank was outdoors. Even if it is, the connection is going to be indoors, duh :o
Sorry, senior moment I guess. ;)