Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - Trane XL 80 Furnace Blower Problem
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williame
02-16-09, 12:56 PM
I live in the Seattle area and my 5 year old Trane furnace blower is failing, as described below. I am so dissapointed as I've had other furnaces (in homes I've lived in) whose blowers lasted in excess of 20 years. My problem is I can't locate where the blower is, within the furnace. I don't have schematics; I however have found the blower that is located inside below the flue (and it operates) I've wondered if that is also the blower/motor (for the heat registers). Here is a description of my problem:
I'm having problems with my Trane XL 80 furnace.
The thermostat works fine because
it keeps calling for heat. The Pilot Light and burners work because they
kick on. When it "seems like" the blower should turn on, nothing happens and then, the burners turn off again.
The fan positioned at the flue pipe runs… however, the blower that sends heat to the heat registers aren't coming on; thus the house remains cold.
When observing, It did come on, once, but it stopped again; the filters are replaced and clean. The furnace creates a burn smell, that comes out of the cold air returns; there is no heat or air coming out of the heat registers; this is also true when the thermostat is positioned to fan on or circulate, the fan (blower) still does not run, or come on.
I would appreciate any information anyone can provide, thanks in advance.
williame
I'm having problems with my Trane XL 80 furnace.
The thermostat works fine because
it keeps calling for heat. The Pilot Light and burners work because they
kick on. When it "seems like" the blower should turn on, nothing happens and then, the burners turn off again.
The fan positioned at the flue pipe runs… however, the blower that sends heat to the heat registers aren't coming on; thus the house remains cold.
When observing, It did come on, once, but it stopped again; the filters are replaced and clean. The furnace creates a burn smell, that comes out of the cold air returns; there is no heat or air coming out of the heat registers; this is also true when the thermostat is positioned to fan on or circulate, the fan (blower) still does not run, or come on.
I would appreciate any information anyone can provide, thanks in advance.
williame
furd
02-16-09, 01:02 PM
Is your furnace in a basement with supply ducts running from the top of the furnace to the floor above? Or is your furnace on the same level as your main floor and you have ducts run through a crawl space?
Where is the filter located, at a return-air grille or at the furnace itself?
With your description of a burning smell I suspect that the motor for your blower is burnt out. At the very least the capacitor (that helps to start the motor) is toast and it is possible that both are shot.
More likely as not your blower has the motor mounted internally and directly drives the "squirrel cage" of the blower rather than having an external motor belt connected to the blower as you may be more used to.
Where is the filter located, at a return-air grille or at the furnace itself?
With your description of a burning smell I suspect that the motor for your blower is burnt out. At the very least the capacitor (that helps to start the motor) is toast and it is possible that both are shot.
More likely as not your blower has the motor mounted internally and directly drives the "squirrel cage" of the blower rather than having an external motor belt connected to the blower as you may be more used to.
williame
02-16-09, 01:49 PM
Reply to:
Is your furnace in a basement with supply ducts running from the top of the furnace to the floor above? Or is your furnace on the same level as your main floor and you have ducts run through a crawl space?
Where is the filter located, at a return-air grille or at the furnace itself?
With your description of a burning smell I suspect that the motor for your blower is burnt out. At the very least the capacitor (that helps to start the motor) is toast and it is possible that both are shot.
More likely as not your blower has the motor mounted internally and directly drives the "squirrel cage" of the blower rather than having an external motor belt connected to the blower as you may be more used to.
The Furnace is located in the garage, on the main floor level; and some of my ducts run under the crawl space, while others leave the furnace (above) and run to another adjacent heated area. The filter is located on top of the furnace (it seems) in direct line of the air flow, coming from the furnace located below it. Do you have any idea whether the blower that helps remove the exhaust and the heat blower are the same (the one that's showing, with the other one located deeper inside the furnace, behind it?). The blower motor is 110/115 volts and I can see the connections for the blower that's running; however the size of that blower seems too small to move the amout of air required to heat or cool a 2,700 square foot house. Thanks, william e
Is your furnace in a basement with supply ducts running from the top of the furnace to the floor above? Or is your furnace on the same level as your main floor and you have ducts run through a crawl space?
Where is the filter located, at a return-air grille or at the furnace itself?
With your description of a burning smell I suspect that the motor for your blower is burnt out. At the very least the capacitor (that helps to start the motor) is toast and it is possible that both are shot.
More likely as not your blower has the motor mounted internally and directly drives the "squirrel cage" of the blower rather than having an external motor belt connected to the blower as you may be more used to.
The Furnace is located in the garage, on the main floor level; and some of my ducts run under the crawl space, while others leave the furnace (above) and run to another adjacent heated area. The filter is located on top of the furnace (it seems) in direct line of the air flow, coming from the furnace located below it. Do you have any idea whether the blower that helps remove the exhaust and the heat blower are the same (the one that's showing, with the other one located deeper inside the furnace, behind it?). The blower motor is 110/115 volts and I can see the connections for the blower that's running; however the size of that blower seems too small to move the amout of air required to heat or cool a 2,700 square foot house. Thanks, william e
furd
02-16-09, 04:32 PM
You have what is known as a "downflow" (or counterflow) furnace. Your main blower is located immediately below the filter. The burner and heat exchanger is located below that.
( I tried to find a good image of a downflow gas furnace but...)
I am not familiar with the Trane furnace but there should be two removable doors on the front. The lower door covers the burner and heat exchanger and the upper door covers the main blower.
This picture is essentially the same as your furnace but it is an upflow model. If you were to cut the furnace in half, turn the lower half upside down and put the lower half on top of the upper half it would be your furnace.
http://www.trane.com/Residential/Images/content/products/seeInside/xl80_cut.jpg(image courtesy of Trane)
The vent from the heat exchanger (the chimney connection) will probably be in the way of the blower assembly and its removal will be necessary to remove the blower. There will be at least two screws holding the blower in place and after removal the blower should slide out. There will also be a wiring harness that is most likely connected by a plug/socket arrangement that needs to be disconnected.
The combustion air blower that is visible above the burners is not the same as the main blower and it operates independently of the main blower. The combustion air blower induces air through the gas burners and the heat exchanger for proper efficient combustion.
Unless you are quite adept at working with tools and in tight places you may want to have a furnace repair company do this work. If you have the variable speed blower be prepared for quite a bill if the motor is burnt out as just the motor alone is about $500.
( I tried to find a good image of a downflow gas furnace but...)
I am not familiar with the Trane furnace but there should be two removable doors on the front. The lower door covers the burner and heat exchanger and the upper door covers the main blower.
This picture is essentially the same as your furnace but it is an upflow model. If you were to cut the furnace in half, turn the lower half upside down and put the lower half on top of the upper half it would be your furnace.
http://www.trane.com/Residential/Images/content/products/seeInside/xl80_cut.jpg(image courtesy of Trane)
The vent from the heat exchanger (the chimney connection) will probably be in the way of the blower assembly and its removal will be necessary to remove the blower. There will be at least two screws holding the blower in place and after removal the blower should slide out. There will also be a wiring harness that is most likely connected by a plug/socket arrangement that needs to be disconnected.
The combustion air blower that is visible above the burners is not the same as the main blower and it operates independently of the main blower. The combustion air blower induces air through the gas burners and the heat exchanger for proper efficient combustion.
Unless you are quite adept at working with tools and in tight places you may want to have a furnace repair company do this work. If you have the variable speed blower be prepared for quite a bill if the motor is burnt out as just the motor alone is about $500.
ecman51`
02-16-09, 04:57 PM
Did you find the blower yet?
They are generally so large and in their own compartment, they are pretty hard to miss, actually. We can help troubleshoot.
That is - if the problem is something more than the blower door cover ajar, causing a poor interlock door switch connection, and then the furnace high limits causing the burning smell to come out the cold air return.
They are generally so large and in their own compartment, they are pretty hard to miss, actually. We can help troubleshoot.
That is - if the problem is something more than the blower door cover ajar, causing a poor interlock door switch connection, and then the furnace high limits causing the burning smell to come out the cold air return.
williame
02-16-09, 11:45 PM
Did you find the blower yet?
They are generally so large and in their own compartment, they are pretty hard to miss, actually. We can help troubleshoot.
That is - if the problem is something more than the blower door cover ajar, causing a poor interlock door switch connection, and then the furnace high limits causing the burning smell to come out the cold air return.
I will make an attempt to find the blower motor, now that I have an idea where it's located (thanks to the member "Furd" who provided the Trane furnace illustration). The door switch (the outside door compartment inside switch) is OK; when the door is off, the exhaust fan doesn't run, until I hand press the switch; also thanks to you, explaining the size of the blower assembly... I will get back and let you know what I find. At this time I am also thankful that I own the sealed electric oil heaters and a gas powered fireplace with a "working blower" or else the family would be really cold! Thanks
They are generally so large and in their own compartment, they are pretty hard to miss, actually. We can help troubleshoot.
That is - if the problem is something more than the blower door cover ajar, causing a poor interlock door switch connection, and then the furnace high limits causing the burning smell to come out the cold air return.
I will make an attempt to find the blower motor, now that I have an idea where it's located (thanks to the member "Furd" who provided the Trane furnace illustration). The door switch (the outside door compartment inside switch) is OK; when the door is off, the exhaust fan doesn't run, until I hand press the switch; also thanks to you, explaining the size of the blower assembly... I will get back and let you know what I find. At this time I am also thankful that I own the sealed electric oil heaters and a gas powered fireplace with a "working blower" or else the family would be really cold! Thanks
williame
02-16-09, 11:55 PM
You have what is known as a "downflow" (or counterflow) furnace. Your main blower is located immediately below the filter. The burner and heat exchanger is located below that.
( I tried to find a good image of a downflow gas furnace but...)
I am not familiar with the Trane furnace but there should be two removable doors on the front. The lower door covers the burner and heat exchanger and the upper door covers the main blower.
This picture is essentially the same as your furnace but it is an upflow model. If you were to cut the furnace in half, turn the lower half upside down and put the lower half on top of the upper half it would be your furnace.
http://www.trane.com/Residential/Images/content/products/seeInside/xl80_cut.jpg(image courtesy of Trane)
The vent from the heat exchanger (the chimney connection) will probably be in the way of the blower assembly and its removal will be necessary to remove the blower. There will be at least two screws holding the blower in place and after removal the blower should slide out. There will also be a wiring harness that is most likely connected by a plug/socket arrangement that needs to be disconnected.
The combustion air blower that is visible above the burners is not the same as the main blower and it operates independently of the main blower. The combustion air blower induces air through the gas burners and the heat exchanger for proper efficient combustion.
Unless you are quite adept at working with tools and in tight places you may want to have a furnace repair company do this work. If you have the variable speed blower be prepared for quite a bill if the motor is burnt out as just the motor alone is about $500.
Thank You So Much! This illustration should guide me in locating the blower motor; I will remove the top cover and apparently another cover behind it and take a look; like you said, it should be right below the filters. I had searched and found some aftermarket Trane blower replacements. I don't know which one is a match, but after I locate the original one, I should find out. Following is what I've found:
Trane OEM Furnace Motors
Trane Furnace Blower Electric Motors (http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/aosmith/Trane_Furnace_Motor.htm)
After Market Replacements AO Smith Electric Motors
Click on picture to enlarge
954 K48HXBHY-954
5KSP29DK15075
MOT-1875
X70500149-01-7 1/30 hp, 1100RPM
3 Speed
.6-.2-.2 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft" 1/2" x 8.5"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4"
$150.78
952 K48HXBJP-969
X70500149-03-7
MOT-1876 1/30 hp, 1100RPM
3 Speed
.74-.31-.31amps, 115 Volts
Shaft" 8.5"x1/2" x9"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3.75"
$150.78:
641 X70500133-01
DE3E152 1/30 hp, 1100RPM
3 Speed
.5-.4.-.3amps, 115 Volts
Shaft" 8.5"x1/2" x8.5"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3.5"
$158.67
373 Trane Fan Coil 1/30hp, 1100/500 RPM
2 Speed
.60-.64 amps, 115 Volts
Shaded Pole
Shaft: 10.5"x1/2"x10.5"
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4.25"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
$223.03
372 Trane Fan Coil 1/25hp, 1060/500 RPM
2 Speed
.60-.64 amps, 115 Volts
Shaded Pole
Shaft: 11"x1/2"x11"
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3.5"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
$194.32
9608 K48HXBHZ955
X70500149-02
MOT-1875
DE3D462 1/20 hp, 1100RPM
3 Speed
.6-.3-.23 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft" 1/2" x 9 7/8"
Rotation: Reversible
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3.25"
$153.55
953 K48HXBJA-956
Fasco D1090
X70500149-04-7
MOT-1877 1/15 hp, 1100 RPM
3 Speed
.8-.5-.35 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 10.75"x1/2"x10 7/8"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3.75"
153.55
945 K48HXCKT-1419
X70500149117
MOT-1978
MOT-481 1/8 hp, 1500 RPM
3 Speed
1.2-.7-.4 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 9"x1/2"x7.5"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4"
$155.31
680 HE4F001
HE4F020
MOT-711 1/8 HP, 775 RPM
1 Speed
1.7 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 11.5"x1/2"x11.5"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 5"
$225.99
598 5KSP29DK1728
5KSP29DK1728S
5KSP29FK2763
DA2F079, DA2F080 1/8 hp, 1550 RPM
1 Speed
1.9 amps, 230 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" x 3"
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4.25"
$92.95
OTR4513 319P737, 322P811, 322P815
Fasco D1050
5KCP29DG4005, 5KSP29DK1728S
5KSP29FK2458AS
WW94X0236, WW94X0237
WW94X0381, WW94X0412
WW94X0423, DE2D154
DE2E101, DE2E159, U492
Dayton 4UY73 1/8 hp, 1550 RPM
1 Speed
.8-.9 amps, 208-240 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" x 3 1/8"
Capacitor Included
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3 3/8"
$92.39
OTR1004 3D149098P01
K55DJK-6905
1673
Dayton 4UY96 1/8 hp, 1650 RPM
1 Speed
.7-.9 amps, 200-230 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" x 1 1/2"
4 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3 3/8"
$101.19
955 K48HXCKS-1418
X70500149-12-7
MOT-1979
MOT-482 1/6 hp, 1500 RPM
3 Speed
2.0-1.1-.68 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 10.5"x1/2"x10.5"
Capacitor Included
Rotation CW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4"
$159.58
9651 5KCP39DGK013T
5KCP39EG5967S
3077 1/5 hp, 1075 RPM
3 Speed
1.3-.74-.68 amps, 265 Volts
Shaft: 2.5"X1/2"X2.5"
4 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 3 7/8"
$147.33
564 3078, 3107
5KCP39DGK014
5KCP39EG5480S
HE3E166
Fasco D897 1/5 hp, 1075 RPM
4 Speed
1.5 amps, 208-230 Volts
Shaft: 2 5/8"X1/2"X2 3/8"
4 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 3.75"
$153.98
OTR10206 D340086P02
Dayton 4VA27 1/5 hp, 1075 RPM
4 Speed
2.3 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" X 3 1/2"
10 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 4 1/8"
$151.65
642 X70500354
DE2G101 1/4 hp, 1075 RPM
3 Speed
1.1 amps, 277 Volts
Shaft: 8"X1/2" X 8"
10 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4"
$164.08
OTR1028 3D146983P01
K55DJL-6906
1674
Dayton 4UY97 1/4 hp, 825 RPM
1 Speed
1.-1.5 amps, 200-230 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" X 2.5"
12.5 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 4 5/8"
$125.83
OTR1036 D340126P02
Dayton 4VA29 1/3 hp, 1075 RPM
4 Speed
6.8 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" X 2.5"
10 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 4 7/8"
$170.13
D2850 X70670706010
X70671180017
MOT3771, MOT5717
5KCP39SFL19KS
5KCP39SFL153DS 1 hp, 1125 RPM
1 Speed
4.6/2.3 amp
280-230/460 volts 50/60hz
Shaft: 1/2" x 3.45"
6.5" Diameter
Permanent Split Capacitor
Ball Bearings
Motor Case Length 6.5"
Includes Capacitor
$243.30
D2851 7126-4088, 7126-4089
7126-4090, 7126-4299
X70671653-01, X70671656-01
X70671654, X70671652-01
MOT9192, MOT9188 1 hp, 1125 RPM
1 Speed
4.6/2.3 amp
280-230/460 volts 50/60hz
Shaft: 5/8" x 3.45"
Keyed Shaft
6.5" Diameter
Permanent Split Capacitor
Ball Bearings
Motor Case Length 6.5"
Includes Capacitor
$254.12
Thanks, I'll get back with you and let you know what I've found out.
( I tried to find a good image of a downflow gas furnace but...)
I am not familiar with the Trane furnace but there should be two removable doors on the front. The lower door covers the burner and heat exchanger and the upper door covers the main blower.
This picture is essentially the same as your furnace but it is an upflow model. If you were to cut the furnace in half, turn the lower half upside down and put the lower half on top of the upper half it would be your furnace.
http://www.trane.com/Residential/Images/content/products/seeInside/xl80_cut.jpg(image courtesy of Trane)
The vent from the heat exchanger (the chimney connection) will probably be in the way of the blower assembly and its removal will be necessary to remove the blower. There will be at least two screws holding the blower in place and after removal the blower should slide out. There will also be a wiring harness that is most likely connected by a plug/socket arrangement that needs to be disconnected.
The combustion air blower that is visible above the burners is not the same as the main blower and it operates independently of the main blower. The combustion air blower induces air through the gas burners and the heat exchanger for proper efficient combustion.
Unless you are quite adept at working with tools and in tight places you may want to have a furnace repair company do this work. If you have the variable speed blower be prepared for quite a bill if the motor is burnt out as just the motor alone is about $500.
Thank You So Much! This illustration should guide me in locating the blower motor; I will remove the top cover and apparently another cover behind it and take a look; like you said, it should be right below the filters. I had searched and found some aftermarket Trane blower replacements. I don't know which one is a match, but after I locate the original one, I should find out. Following is what I've found:
Trane OEM Furnace Motors
Trane Furnace Blower Electric Motors (http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/aosmith/Trane_Furnace_Motor.htm)
After Market Replacements AO Smith Electric Motors
Click on picture to enlarge
954 K48HXBHY-954
5KSP29DK15075
MOT-1875
X70500149-01-7 1/30 hp, 1100RPM
3 Speed
.6-.2-.2 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft" 1/2" x 8.5"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4"
$150.78
952 K48HXBJP-969
X70500149-03-7
MOT-1876 1/30 hp, 1100RPM
3 Speed
.74-.31-.31amps, 115 Volts
Shaft" 8.5"x1/2" x9"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3.75"
$150.78:
641 X70500133-01
DE3E152 1/30 hp, 1100RPM
3 Speed
.5-.4.-.3amps, 115 Volts
Shaft" 8.5"x1/2" x8.5"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3.5"
$158.67
373 Trane Fan Coil 1/30hp, 1100/500 RPM
2 Speed
.60-.64 amps, 115 Volts
Shaded Pole
Shaft: 10.5"x1/2"x10.5"
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4.25"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
$223.03
372 Trane Fan Coil 1/25hp, 1060/500 RPM
2 Speed
.60-.64 amps, 115 Volts
Shaded Pole
Shaft: 11"x1/2"x11"
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3.5"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
$194.32
9608 K48HXBHZ955
X70500149-02
MOT-1875
DE3D462 1/20 hp, 1100RPM
3 Speed
.6-.3-.23 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft" 1/2" x 9 7/8"
Rotation: Reversible
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3.25"
$153.55
953 K48HXBJA-956
Fasco D1090
X70500149-04-7
MOT-1877 1/15 hp, 1100 RPM
3 Speed
.8-.5-.35 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 10.75"x1/2"x10 7/8"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3.75"
153.55
945 K48HXCKT-1419
X70500149117
MOT-1978
MOT-481 1/8 hp, 1500 RPM
3 Speed
1.2-.7-.4 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 9"x1/2"x7.5"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4"
$155.31
680 HE4F001
HE4F020
MOT-711 1/8 HP, 775 RPM
1 Speed
1.7 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 11.5"x1/2"x11.5"
Rotation: CW Lead End
Capacitor Included
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 5"
$225.99
598 5KSP29DK1728
5KSP29DK1728S
5KSP29FK2763
DA2F079, DA2F080 1/8 hp, 1550 RPM
1 Speed
1.9 amps, 230 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" x 3"
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4.25"
$92.95
OTR4513 319P737, 322P811, 322P815
Fasco D1050
5KCP29DG4005, 5KSP29DK1728S
5KSP29FK2458AS
WW94X0236, WW94X0237
WW94X0381, WW94X0412
WW94X0423, DE2D154
DE2E101, DE2E159, U492
Dayton 4UY73 1/8 hp, 1550 RPM
1 Speed
.8-.9 amps, 208-240 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" x 3 1/8"
Capacitor Included
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3 3/8"
$92.39
OTR1004 3D149098P01
K55DJK-6905
1673
Dayton 4UY96 1/8 hp, 1650 RPM
1 Speed
.7-.9 amps, 200-230 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" x 1 1/2"
4 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 3 3/8"
$101.19
955 K48HXCKS-1418
X70500149-12-7
MOT-1979
MOT-482 1/6 hp, 1500 RPM
3 Speed
2.0-1.1-.68 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 10.5"x1/2"x10.5"
Capacitor Included
Rotation CW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4"
$159.58
9651 5KCP39DGK013T
5KCP39EG5967S
3077 1/5 hp, 1075 RPM
3 Speed
1.3-.74-.68 amps, 265 Volts
Shaft: 2.5"X1/2"X2.5"
4 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 3 7/8"
$147.33
564 3078, 3107
5KCP39DGK014
5KCP39EG5480S
HE3E166
Fasco D897 1/5 hp, 1075 RPM
4 Speed
1.5 amps, 208-230 Volts
Shaft: 2 5/8"X1/2"X2 3/8"
4 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 3.75"
$153.98
OTR10206 D340086P02
Dayton 4VA27 1/5 hp, 1075 RPM
4 Speed
2.3 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" X 3 1/2"
10 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 4 1/8"
$151.65
642 X70500354
DE2G101 1/4 hp, 1075 RPM
3 Speed
1.1 amps, 277 Volts
Shaft: 8"X1/2" X 8"
10 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5"
Motor Case Length = 4"
$164.08
OTR1028 3D146983P01
K55DJL-6906
1674
Dayton 4UY97 1/4 hp, 825 RPM
1 Speed
1.-1.5 amps, 200-230 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" X 2.5"
12.5 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 4 5/8"
$125.83
OTR1036 D340126P02
Dayton 4VA29 1/3 hp, 1075 RPM
4 Speed
6.8 amps, 115 Volts
Shaft: 1/2" X 2.5"
10 MFD Capacitor Included
Rotation CCW Lead End
Motor Diameter = 5 5/8"
Motor Case Length = 4 7/8"
$170.13
D2850 X70670706010
X70671180017
MOT3771, MOT5717
5KCP39SFL19KS
5KCP39SFL153DS 1 hp, 1125 RPM
1 Speed
4.6/2.3 amp
280-230/460 volts 50/60hz
Shaft: 1/2" x 3.45"
6.5" Diameter
Permanent Split Capacitor
Ball Bearings
Motor Case Length 6.5"
Includes Capacitor
$243.30
D2851 7126-4088, 7126-4089
7126-4090, 7126-4299
X70671653-01, X70671656-01
X70671654, X70671652-01
MOT9192, MOT9188 1 hp, 1125 RPM
1 Speed
4.6/2.3 amp
280-230/460 volts 50/60hz
Shaft: 5/8" x 3.45"
Keyed Shaft
6.5" Diameter
Permanent Split Capacitor
Ball Bearings
Motor Case Length 6.5"
Includes Capacitor
$254.12
Thanks, I'll get back with you and let you know what I've found out.
williame
02-17-09, 07:07 PM
Thanks everyone for all of your help!
After taking everything apart, I vaccumed out the motor enclosure (as much as I could) examined the components, turned the fan blades by hand, etc. While in the process of listing the technical aspects of the capacitor, I heard something fall. With much luck, I located it, it was a 5 Watt Fuse (that was the same type used in automobiles). Next, I searched the circuit board and found a designation marked "fuse 1." I pushed the fuse back into place, put the furnace back together, set the thermostat and "like magic" the furnace came on, without the smell.
I hope that it's fixed... time will tell; the fuse must have vibrated out of place.... Thanks again, williame
After taking everything apart, I vaccumed out the motor enclosure (as much as I could) examined the components, turned the fan blades by hand, etc. While in the process of listing the technical aspects of the capacitor, I heard something fall. With much luck, I located it, it was a 5 Watt Fuse (that was the same type used in automobiles). Next, I searched the circuit board and found a designation marked "fuse 1." I pushed the fuse back into place, put the furnace back together, set the thermostat and "like magic" the furnace came on, without the smell.
I hope that it's fixed... time will tell; the fuse must have vibrated out of place.... Thanks again, williame