Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - How to hang kitchen cabients?
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unclejack
02-14-09, 03:42 PM
Hello once again, I have a few questions to ask. I was wondering what's the best/easiest way to hang kitchen cabinets? I usually work by myself and I don't know of any way I can hang them by myself and get them level. Any ideas?
Also, I bought a laminate counter top and a base cabinet for the counter top. My question is: What actually holds the counter top on the cabinet? I had an old counter top that had the pieces of like flakeboard on the corners. I was checking out the stuff at Lowes and the guy at Lowes said I shouldn't need those square flakeboard corners pieces that they were their just to build up the counter so appliances could fit under it. Learning as I'm going! Thanks in advance! :thumbup: Jack
Also, I bought a laminate counter top and a base cabinet for the counter top. My question is: What actually holds the counter top on the cabinet? I had an old counter top that had the pieces of like flakeboard on the corners. I was checking out the stuff at Lowes and the guy at Lowes said I shouldn't need those square flakeboard corners pieces that they were their just to build up the counter so appliances could fit under it. Learning as I'm going! Thanks in advance! :thumbup: Jack
Just Bill
02-14-09, 04:03 PM
Your questions lead me to think that you should not try to do this yourself.
That said.......base cabinets are usually 34 1/2" high, + 1 1/2 for a countertop puts the base cabinets at 36". Wall cabinets are usually 18" above the base cabinets. I always hang wall cabinets first, since there is nothing under to get in the way. The tops of all wall cabinets will be the same height. But first you need to establish the proper height of the base. Floors are never level, so find the highest point of the floor, often an outside corner wall. A water or laser level is necessary here. Strike a level line from the highest point of the floor at 36". Measure up 18" and strike another level line. That is where the wall cabinets will hang. Find all studs and mark them from ceiling to below 34" above the floor. At the wall cabinet height, anchor a 2x or 1x piece of lumber. You will set the full length wall cabinets on this and anchor them into the studs you just marked with 2 1/2" min cabinet screws. Shim the cabinets so the fronts are plumb.
Starting at the corner base cabinet, set it PERFECTLY level/plumb with your 34 1/2" line. Shim as needed. Fit the rest of the cabinets to this cabinet. Screw cabinets to each other at the front frame, and to the wall at stud locations.
Good hunting!!!
That said.......base cabinets are usually 34 1/2" high, + 1 1/2 for a countertop puts the base cabinets at 36". Wall cabinets are usually 18" above the base cabinets. I always hang wall cabinets first, since there is nothing under to get in the way. The tops of all wall cabinets will be the same height. But first you need to establish the proper height of the base. Floors are never level, so find the highest point of the floor, often an outside corner wall. A water or laser level is necessary here. Strike a level line from the highest point of the floor at 36". Measure up 18" and strike another level line. That is where the wall cabinets will hang. Find all studs and mark them from ceiling to below 34" above the floor. At the wall cabinet height, anchor a 2x or 1x piece of lumber. You will set the full length wall cabinets on this and anchor them into the studs you just marked with 2 1/2" min cabinet screws. Shim the cabinets so the fronts are plumb.
Starting at the corner base cabinet, set it PERFECTLY level/plumb with your 34 1/2" line. Shim as needed. Fit the rest of the cabinets to this cabinet. Screw cabinets to each other at the front frame, and to the wall at stud locations.
Good hunting!!!
chandler
02-14-09, 04:05 PM
The easiest way to do it solo is to take vertical measurements of your cabinets, place a 2x4 on the wall horizontally at that height across where your cabinets will be installed. Cut one or two more 2x4's the length of that height to use as supports. Lift the cabinet up and place it on the horizontal 2x4 and support it with a couple of the posts you made. Then you can screw them to the wall. It is always best to determine where your studs are ahead of time so you can mark the header of the cabinets accordingly. Use cabinet screws and not sheetrock screws.
If possible, always put your upper cabinets up first. Easier without the lower cabinets in the way.
Attaching the countertop to the cabinets is achieved by screwing up through those corner pieces the guy at Lowe's said you didn't need into the countertop. Make sure your screw length won't exit the top of the countertop. A good bead of silicone along the top of the cabinets will ensure a good adhesion.
If possible, always put your upper cabinets up first. Easier without the lower cabinets in the way.
Attaching the countertop to the cabinets is achieved by screwing up through those corner pieces the guy at Lowe's said you didn't need into the countertop. Make sure your screw length won't exit the top of the countertop. A good bead of silicone along the top of the cabinets will ensure a good adhesion.
XSleeper
02-14-09, 04:40 PM
Only thing I might add, is that I usually remove all cabinet doors (and shelves, obviously) to make the cabinets lighter, then I like to screw wall cabinets together on the ground (as many as I can reasonably lift at one time) clamp them together, predrill holes in the face frames, and then screw them together. I'll also often put a shim between the cabinets (near the back) and screw the cabinets together in back too. You can make them perfectly straight that way, even if the wall isn't.
If you're working by yourself, it makes sense to make a couple stands out of 2x4's, kind of like Chandler was describing. The ones I make look kind of like a hangman's pole, but and are about 54" tall. The top of the stand should be on the level reference line that represents the bottom of the cabinets (shim the stand up to the line as needed). I put one screw in each of them down where the base cabinets will cover the holes. I put together as many cabinets as I can lift, and then set them up on those stands as one unit. They rest there without having to hold them against the wall, or worry about them falling off. Then I can have both hands free to reach for the drill, the screws, or my cup of coffee. :coffee:
If you're working by yourself, it makes sense to make a couple stands out of 2x4's, kind of like Chandler was describing. The ones I make look kind of like a hangman's pole, but and are about 54" tall. The top of the stand should be on the level reference line that represents the bottom of the cabinets (shim the stand up to the line as needed). I put one screw in each of them down where the base cabinets will cover the holes. I put together as many cabinets as I can lift, and then set them up on those stands as one unit. They rest there without having to hold them against the wall, or worry about them falling off. Then I can have both hands free to reach for the drill, the screws, or my cup of coffee. :coffee:
unclejack
02-14-09, 04:41 PM
Thanks Chandler, Bill! Those flakeboard type pieces I spoke of that the guy at Lowes said i didn't need, could those plastic type brace things in the tops of the corners possibly serve the same purpose or ? Sorry, I don't know much! I truly am learning as I'm going! What kind of makes things more difficult is that I live at my house and all the stuff I speak of is at the house I inherited! Oh yeah, Chandler sorry I forgot to get back to ya about how much I may have to cut off the door I'm thinking of installing. I measured it today and I would need to cut off 2 inches vertically rather than the 3 I had guessed at before.Thanks again! I appreciate it! Jack:thumbup: I love this site!:thumbup:
Wirepuller38
02-15-09, 06:39 AM
I would add one more item to what has been said above. Carefully measure to locate where the screws will attach the cabinet to the wall. Drill pilot holes in the cabinet and start the screw on the inside of the cabinet. When you have the cabinet located correctly, simply drive the screw home.
chandler
02-16-09, 03:48 AM
Jack, yeah the little plastic thingies in the corners with the hole are used for your screws. You will note they are slightly below the edge of the cabinet. This will give a little "pull down" effect when you tighten the screws (not too tight, of course).
clawfirst
02-16-09, 04:37 AM
After doing what everyone said below, with the exception of wirepuller. Invite a strong friend over to watch the game.Begin installation at halftime. Provide beer. Though ive installed uppers by myself before its really not worth it. Kinda like drywalling a cieling by yourself, doable, but not fun. And you cant mud over you misses.
unclejack
02-16-09, 03:11 PM
Thanks everyone! I made the stands and hung the cabinets myself today. I never even knew they had specific screws for cabinets. Turned out nice. I even made a "fake" backsplash out of tile board that I had left over from doing my bathroom. Now on the agenda is to cut my counter top to size, cut the hole for the sink, and do the plumbing for the kitchen sink. Then the kitchen is pretty much done! Thanks all! I appreciate all your advice! Jack:thumbup:
Just Bill
02-16-09, 03:20 PM
Oh yeah, never, ever, bring out the beer until the job is done.
nickroqs
02-17-09, 07:36 PM
The hardest part is hanging the first two, and making sure they are level and aligned correctly. It's all downhill after that.