Paneling and Trim - Baseboard installation

I am putting up a new white baseboard trim along the walls on the floor. I have a choice between using white nails to tack them on and then maybe putty the holes? The nail holes could still be visible on the all white baseboard

I just thought of another option... Is it a good idea to glue the baseboard onto the wall instead? If so, what steps should I undertake to ensure a good bond and that the baseboard doesn't come off?

Thanks!!!

Don't worry about using color coordinated nails, as you stated, the nail holes will need to be filled anyway. Nail it up to the wall studs, countersink your nails and fill the holes with painter's putty. You can paint over it, touching up the areas as needed and you will have a smooth job. Gluing molding has a built in problem...who is going to hold it while it dries?

You should also caulk the base to the wall and at the joints.

Thanks for the advice... I went ahead and did it...

I am not an expert in this realm, but why I couldn't have the inside corner joints mesh properly, even though I used a miter box. What could I have done wrong?

It is not a problem for me because these corners will be hidden by some furnitures.

Have a great day!!!

No house is built perfectly square (except mine :) ), so your corners will vary in pitch, some 48 degrees, some less. What is commonly done is "coping" the ends of the molding. Basically you would lay your first piece butted up against one wall. I like to work counterclockwise (and don't ask why). On the piece you will be sending to that butted piece, you would cut your normal miter. Then with a coping saw you "back" cut the line made by the miter saw. Then the piece would sit almost perfectly against that butted piece. Practice makes....well, not perfect, but good.

Depending on the the type of baseboard and where it's going, you can also just use a nailgun, much faster. You can get away with just using paint too if the nails are small enough.

No house is built perfectly square (except mine :) ), so your corners will vary in pitch, some 48 degrees, some less. What is commonly done is "coping" the ends of the molding. Basically you would lay your first piece butted up against one wall. I like to work counterclockwise (and don't ask why). On the piece you will be sending to that butted piece, you would cut your normal miter. Then with a coping saw you "back" cut the line made by the miter saw. Then the piece would sit almost perfectly against that butted piece. Practice makes....well, not perfect, but good. I like to use a jig saw to cope base. If its going to be painted though you are wasting your time. MIter it, dap it, paint it. Unless its a really funked up corner that would require bisecting to get the angle. Coping is faster than that.

I also go ahead and cut the miter, reverse the miter on the saw and cut down to the ripple on speedbase with the miter saw, then finish off the ripple with a coping saw. Makes the vertical alot smoother.