Walls and Ceilings - Sagging Second Story Floor Joist

Hey everyone, my name is Dane and I am new to the forum.

I just bought my first home that is a 1 1/2 story Bungalow built in 1919. I am in the process of remodeling and am currently redoing the ceilings in the dinning room and living room. Upon removing the old plaster and latte boards, I confirmed what I already knew from the upstairs...my upper story floor joist are sagging. The joist are 2x6(I believe they are oak) and span approx. 16 ft. in the living room and 14 ft. in the dinning room. Some joist have have holes drilled in them where the wiring was ran.

I know its an old house and I can live with the sag, I just don't want it progressing. The floors do not squeek or make any noise when walking upstairs. What I want to know is what I should do to reinforce the joists so that they do not get any worse? Or do you think they have settled as much as the are going to?

I would reinforce them while you have the ceiling opened. Are they sagging only in the middle or have the ends moved where they meet the walls?

It looks as though they are only sagging in the middle. I know that 2x6 are way to small for the span but thats what you get in alot of older homes. I had a guy mention nailing 2x4's next to the joists because using 2x6's would require removing all wiring running through the existing joists. Does anyone else have some more suggestions??

How far apart are the joists? 2x6s for 14 and 16' spans!?!

Here's a chart that will give you a better idea about joist size and span capability. Keep in mind that specs tend to vary somewhat among wood species. Single Family Residential Construction Guide - Floor Joists (http://www.mcvicker.com/resguide/page013b.htm)

I would build a header, box it with sheet rock, tape, spackle and paint.

Yeah I know the joists are WAY undersized for 14' and 16' span. They are spaced 16" apart. I was thinking maybe I could install a beams perpendicular to the joists in the middle of the room to cut the joist their load in half, but thats compromising living space.

I would build a header, box it with sheet rock, tape, spackle and paint.

Where would suggest placing the header and what would you use?

It would be really good if you could posts some pics to photobucket or something but I'll give you some ideas in the meantime.

I would try to put the header in the middle, if that's the lowest part of the sag, exactly as you said with a beam perpendicular to the joists. At each end of the beam, you would have a vertical post to support it. There are some choices how to install it and what to use. One way would be to use a 3 or 4 inch steel I-Beam set on top of double 2x6s at each end or even another piece of steel. All of it could be boxed and sheet rocked. You really wouldn't be losing any living space.

If you didn't want to go with the I-Beam, you could do the same the double 2x6s or double 2x8s. I vote for the steel I-Beam myself.

An "I" beam is way overkill for this and also has to be supported by steel columns. You don't say how wide the rooms are side to side. We are in the process of putting a second story on an old house with 2x6 ceiling joists. The architect called for sistering new 2x6's next to the existing. We were removing all the wiring already there so that wasn't a problem. I would install a drop girder below the ceiling keeping it as short as possible, probably a double or triple 8" LVL supported by posts in the walls at each end. Sheetrock it,cornerbeads, and tape.

How can you say it's overkill and then ask for the measurements? It would be different if you already knew the size of the room.

An "I" beam is way overkill for this and also has to be supported by steel columns. You don't say how wide the rooms are side to side. We are in the process of putting a second story on an old house with 2x6 ceiling joists. The architect called for sistering new 2x6's next to the existing. We were removing all the wiring already there so that wasn't a problem. I would install a drop girder below the ceiling keeping it as short as possible, probably a double or triple 8" LVL supported by posts in the walls at each end. Sheetrock it,cornerbeads, and tape.

The rooms are approx 15 ft. wide...got a newbie question...what is a drop girder??? I'm not a carpenter but got some friends with the know-how helping me with the project.