Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - Kenmore washer, sounds fine but wont spin.

Model 11020922.

Motor sounds fine but basket and agitator wont spin, when it starts the agitator does start to move but just a 1/4" then stops like something is blocking it. I wouldn't have noticed anything was wrong except my cloths are wetter than usual and the smell of hot plastic or ozone.

The basket wont move at all, even manually. The agitator will start to move then nothing. Again the motor sounds perfectly normal.

Also I dismantled the agitator everything looks fine except I found these iron filings in the grease on the lower agitator. Nothing looks worn so I don't know where these filings are coming from.

From what I read it could be the coupler but I want to make sure before buying everything under the sun.

Thanks in advanced.

No need to buy anything yet. Does the machine drain? Take off the cabinet, then drop motor down, set it on the base abd try running it. When you take down the motor, you'll be able to tell right away what shape the drive coupling is in. There is a heavy duty coupling available # 285852A or #285753A. Let us know what you find.

No need to buy anything yet. Does the machine drain? Take off the cabinet, then drop motor down, set it on the base abd try running it. When you take down the motor, you'll be able to tell right away what shape the drive coupling is in. There is a heavy duty coupling available # 285852A or #285753A. Let us know what you find.

Thanks DJ,

Sorry I am new to the washing machine repair business...what do you mean "Drop the motor"?, I opened up the machine and the motor is now off the coupler...it look ok but then I am not sure what it should look like anyway.

The coupler is still on the under-side of the washing machine, should I remove it to determine if it's broken and would that already be apearent.
Also there is a rubber grommit at the top of the transmission, what is that for?

Thanks,

Also I dismantled the agitator everything looks fine except I found these iron filings in the grease on the lower agitator.

your drive block is stripped out. you need a new drive block. often times you dont have to replace the basket drive, just take some pliers and bend the tabs back straight.

you will need to get a whirlpool spanner nut wrench for the nut

Coupler is at the end of motor between motor and gearcase. If you can take it off either shaft be hand you need a new one (center hole is rounded out) Rubber piece with 6 holes in it is insulator between drive lugs of coupler. Thin rubber piece near top is a noise insulator, Don't worry about it if it is loose.

If figure I will replace the coupler either way since the original is being declared defective internetwise...

What's the difference between a 285852A and a #285753A?

Should the basket rotate freely now that the engine is good the coupler? The agitator does rotate freely at the moment.

Thanks all, you have all been wonderful gurus!

285753A is the new replacement from Whrilpool, Don't know the other #

your drive block is stripped out. you need a new drive block. often times you dont have to replace the basket drive, just take some pliers and bend the tabs back straight.

you will need to get a whirlpool spanner nut wrench for the nut

Could someone give me the part numbers?

Also can someone tell me if the basket should spin manually, I am trying to figure out if something is jammed in there or if all I need is the Coupler and a Drive Block.

Also what is the part number for a Spanner Wrench, just want everything I need before that "oh I need one more thing" moment during a repair...:)

Thanks all!

Pull the agitator and check the splines on the tranny shaft, they are probably worn off. If so, you will need a new tranny.

Spines appear fine and still lock into the agitator.

Thanks again all, I appreciate all those that took the time to reply!

Pull off the pump and with an adjustable wrench, turn the motor shaft clockwise and see if the spin basket starts to spin.
If not, you need a new coupler.

Yep, not turning, thanks again!

What's the part number for the drive block.

389140- Sears has it for $13.

Thanks DJ,

Ya my local Sears repair center has them for that...just needed the part number.

Thanks again!

Ok all, I am still not getting this washer working...

I am starting to think it isn't the coupler...I opened up the washer, removed the pump, then motor. I can see the coupler and it looks fine, I removed the gasket and the 3 teeth are there on both ends of the coupler assembly and it doesn't want to come off the axels they're on. Also if I try to move the coupler on the washer side, the agitator on top of the transmission starts to move though I can only move it slightly.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

Time to rewind. With the motor down down off of the gearcase, put in some water, then move the timer to the wash cycle. Does the motor run? Move the timer further to the spin cycle, does the motor run in the oppisite direction [the lid needs to be down or the lid switch bypassed if you have the cabinet off.]?

Time to rewind. With the motor down down off of the gearcase, put in some water, then move the timer to the wash cycle. Does the motor run? Move the timer further to the spin cycle, does the motor run in the oppisite direction [the lid needs to be down or the lid switch bypassed if you have the cabinet off.]?

I put the washer back together, I am not sure how to bypass the switch.

If I put the washer in spin mode, I can hear the engine kick off and sounds normal. If I manually spin the agitator it moves for a sec then stops.

The pump does work,

did you replace the drive block yet?

Remove the transmission and turn the tranny coupler clockwise. Will the clutch and spindle now turn??

did you replace the drive block yet?

No, but I did buy one...would a stripped drive block prevent the basket from spinning too?

Both the agitator and basket move slightly then stop when the motor is running.

Remove the transmission and turn the tranny coupler clockwise. Will the clutch and spindle now turn??

Did this and yes, it does seem to move...

I know this is probably a dumb question, I have the agitator all pulled apart and can see the metal agitator rod, grease and metal shavings. Do I have to remove the cabinet again?

How do I get down to the drive block to remove it, also what grease should I use to replace the stuff I am removing?

Thanks!

would a stripped drive block prevent the basket from spinning too?

yes

dont worry about replacing the grease. you need a whirlpool spanner nut wrench to get the nut off so you can replace the drive block

Do I have to remove the chassis to get to the block...just asking before doing so...

Do I have to remove the chassis to get to the block...just asking before doing so...

you only need to remove the cabinet, tub cover(top ring) and then the basket

Hey guys, I know I saw an illustration of the agitator assembly that I will need to get all these parts back in the right order.

I can't seem to find it with google now, anyone know where I might find one?

Thanks!

here is a link to Sears put model # in and there will be a break down of your machine.

Must be in invisible ink! :)

Where's the link?

Try this:

Parts & Accessories | Shop & Find Lawn & Garden, Appliance Parts at Sears PartsDirect | SearsPartsDirect.com (http://www.searspartsdirect.com)

Thanks daddy forgot to paste link.

Ok, the spanner finally came in and beating it with a rubber mallet finally got the spanner nut off...

So now I should be able to pull up the basket up off the shaft but it doesn't seem to want to come.

I am a little worried about the the grinding I am perceiving coming from below as I pull up on the basket hard.

Just making sure this is the next step because I am afraid of forcing and breaking something.

Thanks all!

Ok, sorry about this becoming and epic...

Finally got the inner basket off...YAY Me!

Problem: The Drive block came off with the basket and is still in the shaft of the inner basket.

I tried to get it to come out but it is catching on the filter on the bottom of the basket (I believe that's the lint trap).

Does the lint trap come off?

Should I be able to remove the drive block around this filter without damaging it.

Is it normal for the basket to look all couroded on the bottom?

Thanks!

The block should drop out the bottom of basket. A lot of times there is a build up of old soap and softner. Get the block straight in hole and push out the bottom. Light rust on bottom of basket should not hurt anything.

I am trying to get it out the bottom but it is hanging up on the four tabs that hold the filter to the bottom of inner basket.

Any ideas?

Any ideas?

push harder, they have always come out for me

I've pushed as hard as I could, it isn't getting past those Nylon tabs that hold the filter to the inner-basket.

Do I need to take the thing off before the drive block can come out or should it be able to slide past somehow.

I have even tried hammering and now one of the tabs is bent a little.

Well, got tired of this washing machine repair going into extra innings so I removed the filter by pushing in the 4 tabs and out it popped and so did the drive block...

So in answer to my question: Yes, you do have to remove the filter to get the old drive block off.

Also gives me a chance to clean the filter plate now that it's off.

The "ears" on the tube are a little warn but still are bent straight and engage the block tightly. The old block literally has its entire ring of the groves worn off! It is just a smooth ring on top. Seems the "ears part is iron the the drive block is aluminum.

Thanks for all the help all!

The tabs engage the inside of the block Look inside block and see if slots are rounded or gone.

The tabs engage the inside of the block Look inside block and see if slots are rounded or gone.

Ya, like I said...the whole ring of the block is gone...definitely a new one is needed!

Well, hammered the new drive block into place, one ear is a bit chewed up but they seated perfectly and the block has no movement.

Put everything back together and no parts were left over afterwards!

Go for a wash and no spin?

Popped the controller and I forgot to re-connect the wire to the control console (Doh!), now everything is working perfectly and sounds much happier!

Thanks all!

if the block jumps off the basket drive in the future go ahead and replace the basket drive too.

if the block jumps off the basket drive in the future go ahead and replace the basket drive too.

Thanks for the advice Dave, What's the part number? Are they expensive?

here is a link to your machine
KENMORE | Model #11020922990 | AUTOMATIC WASHER | SearsPartsDirect.com (http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieveModelDetails.pd?modelNumber=11020922990&productCategoryId=0153200&brandId=0582&modelName=AUTOMATIC-WASHER)
Look under brake ,gearcase*** part 1 is the what you may need.

Hey not to hijack this thread but I'm having similar problems with my washer (model 11020422991). Its spinning but no where near what it used too and if I try to do a full load of towels it doesn't spin at all.

I have no idea about any of the parts mentioned in this thread. Is there anywhere I can pick up a free copy of a service manual for my washer before I start pulling it apart?

I know I can fix it if I can just figure out what and where everything you guys are talking about are at.

CA Tilt machine back against wall and look for a oil streak about 12 inches from bottom. You will need a gearcase and clutch. I would also replace the drive coupler when you are there. Keep us posted and can help with repairs.

CA Tilt machine back against wall and look for a oil streak about 12 inches from bottom. You will need a gearcase and clutch. I would also replace the drive coupler when you are there. Keep us posted and can help with repairs.

Is that expensive? Also where can I get a manual so I can figure out how to change it out?

it depends on your definition of expensive. check the website pugsi suggested. they'll have the parts and a manual.

Looking up the Coupling, Gear case and Clutch I'm looking at a little over 200 dollars in parts.

Sears has a similar washer for 303.99 right now. Probably better idea to just by a new one in case something else has to be replaced as well. :wall:

most likly you will not have to replace anything else. Your machine should be good for many years. Water pump & lid switch are the most common parts to go bad. I would repair washer if it was mine. Was there a streak of oil in cabinet?

fyi you can get reman gearcases on ebay for about $60

most likly you will not have to replace anything else. Your machine should be good for many years. Water pump & lid switch are the most common parts to go bad. I would repair washer if it was mine. Was there a streak of oil in cabinet?

I haven't had a chance to look yet. I'm just coming into m weekend and will look later today.

CA Tilt machine back against wall and look for a oil streak about 12 inches from bottom. You will need a gearcase and clutch. I would also replace the drive coupler when you are there. Keep us posted and can help with repairs.

Ok lifted the washer and low and behold there is a streak of oil all over the sides of the washer and the gear case is dripping oil! :madhell:

Heading over to ebay to see about the gear case and clutch. didn't even think about ebay.

Where is the best place to learn how to change these out?

Appliance repairs, Appliancehelp, Appliances, repairs to dryers washers dishwashers fridges repairs microwaves ge maytag kenmore frigidaire westinghouse inglis, appliance how to take apart information, purchasing an appliance help, model number help, (http://www.applianceaid.com) has tutorials

I know its been a while since I last posted but its been a little crazy at work. Washer is still running but have to cut the loads in half to get the spin cycle to work.

I ordered a Gearcase, clutch and a coupler. Do i need to grease the gear case before installing it?

^no need to add oil

there is a hole that you do need to clear on the top. there will be a sticker advising you of such

Looking for instructions on replacing the gearcase. Do I need any specialized tools like a spanner tool?

No special tools needed. Remove agitator, If there remove spring clip and plastic washer under it, Tilt washer back against wall, take water pump off leave hoses on and fold back to left side, Take off motor and push out of way can leave wires connected take plastic clip holding wires out. Remove 3 bolts holding gearcase on. Gearcase will will slide out . To install reverse procedure but first make sure the brake is pushed all the way up May have to turn plastic lever to release it to push up.

Ok little update.. Swapped out the gear case and the coupler. The gearcase I bought off ebay had a clutch on it so that was changed also.

My wife did a load of towels that she said worked fine. Then she did a full load of clothes. The same thing happened. It spun but did not spin the water out of the clothes.

My wife said before she would have to put it on the spin cycle then spin the basket by hand to get it to start spinning. Now it spins on its own but the clothes were dripping wet.

Did I miss something? Or should I wait a few loads to see if it corrects itself.

sounds like an issue with the clutch. hopefully the new one was actually a new one

You might have dragging brake shoes, turn the tranny coupler clockwise till the spin basket starts to turn, if hard to turn the coupler, you have dragging brake shoes.

Hi,
Sorry to jump into this thread, but I am glad
I read it.
I have opened my Kenmore Elite, and have
the new coupler ready to be installed.
However, after reading this thread, I think I too
have a "dragging brake shoe".
How do I fix it ?
thanks!

1ST LOOK TO SEE IT THERE IS A STREAK OF OIL INSIDE OF CABINET (sry cap lock) about 4 to 6 inches from bottom. [I]f there is a streak you need a gearcase and clutch. Cheaper fix is to replace gearcase seal and clean clutch with some spray brake cleaner. in many years have not seen any draging brakes, Can happen but not often.

there are NO oil streaks or leaks anywhere under
the washer.
symptoms:
When I turn the coupler part connected to the
shaft of the transmission, it turns, but its a little
hard to do. After 1 or 2 tries, it becomes easier
for about 6 or 7 more turns, then becomes harder
again. When I use more force and get past the
1-2 turns, it again becomes easier for the next
6-7...

I have the new coupler part ready, but the old
one doesn't look broken. When I took the motor
out, then a few black powder shavings fell to
the floor. But the coupler components look
quite robust, i.e. not in pieces. The one connected
to the transmission is very firmly on it.
The one connected to the motor and the rubber
piece between them, came off easily..

Is it still the coupler that is the problem ?
Oh, also:
in the drum, there is a little (1 inch) of water ( a bit
dirty). Does the pump always leave a little water
in there after every wash ?

thanks!

okay, replaced the coupler anyway,
since I had a new one, and there was some
black powder on the floor.
Then hardwired the "lid switch" and turned
on the washer.
Put it on spin cycle.
And -no- spin.
Lots of noise now, however..
Should I be going at it from the top of the washer ?
I removed the agitator cap..
and I guess what i need is something to let
me remove the agitator itself ?

thanks for your help!!

expenses so far:
running at 20$ (coupler)
socket wrench set ($20) for really small nuts
that hold the motor to the chassis

Hey, sorry for the mass mails,
but one more thing I tried -
manually move the clutch-drum(? (the
upside down piece that holds a large spring
inside it), I turned it by pushing it with
a screwdirver. When I do that, the
inside drum (which I am trying to get to spin)
does turn.
So whatever connects that inside drum
to the clutch drum must be okay ?
So,
where is it going wrong ?
thanks in advance!

disassembled everything from the drum out.
(lots of rust stains under the agitator on the inside
drum)
connected just the motor and the driveshaft
connected to the transmission rotates.
Now, couldnt fight the clutch/brake,
throwing in the towel and buying a new washer

Sry for the problems Whrilpool built washer still the best out there.

I'm having difficulty getting the new clutch to seat correctly. I cannot push the housing up high enought to bolt on. What am I doing wrong???

you need to rotate the cam on the basket drive counter clockwise so the brake shoes will retract inwards so then the whole basket drive can move upward as you push it with your hand