Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - PC1550 reconfigure
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Tommp
12-26-08, 09:23 PM
I have read through all of this thread and tried some but I sort of ran past my comfort level.
I have an EN1550 with an EN1550RK keypad (no lcd etc just buttons and lights).
I pulled an installers manual off the web. I am getting a constant light in (4) indicating a comunications problem. I do not have monitoring. I am using the system as a stand alone. The old alarm company tech did somehting to disable the dialing when i stopped using the monitoring company. Then just recently we could not set the alarm. I thought it was becuase one of my sensors was bad or a window was open or somehting. but, after lookig at the manual, i saw that the light on (4) indicated a communictaions problem.
I tried to use the installers code in the manual but I am not sure it worked. I am trying to disable the dialer. The sequence I tried was *8 5555 then 380 9(for the dialer) , I also tried 1550 and 1555. After I enter any of these installers codes I get a long beep and I go ahead and enter 380. The 2nd problem besides not being sure about the installers code is, I am not sure what to enter to disable the communicator.
Long story short, can anyone tell me what the default pins are so i can change the installers code and lastly what digits \ buttons do i press to actually change a setting once i get to programming section 380 for the installer?
Thanks and my apologies fopr such a long story on my very firts time on the forum.
I have an EN1550 with an EN1550RK keypad (no lcd etc just buttons and lights).
I pulled an installers manual off the web. I am getting a constant light in (4) indicating a comunications problem. I do not have monitoring. I am using the system as a stand alone. The old alarm company tech did somehting to disable the dialing when i stopped using the monitoring company. Then just recently we could not set the alarm. I thought it was becuase one of my sensors was bad or a window was open or somehting. but, after lookig at the manual, i saw that the light on (4) indicated a communictaions problem.
I tried to use the installers code in the manual but I am not sure it worked. I am trying to disable the dialer. The sequence I tried was *8 5555 then 380 9(for the dialer) , I also tried 1550 and 1555. After I enter any of these installers codes I get a long beep and I go ahead and enter 380. The 2nd problem besides not being sure about the installers code is, I am not sure what to enter to disable the communicator.
Long story short, can anyone tell me what the default pins are so i can change the installers code and lastly what digits \ buttons do i press to actually change a setting once i get to programming section 380 for the installer?
Thanks and my apologies fopr such a long story on my very firts time on the forum.
MrRonFL
12-27-08, 07:40 AM
The first thing you are doing wrong is confusing a PC1550 with a PC1555. The 2 systems use radically different programming models.
http://www.alarmtech.org/customer_support/manuals/dsc/pc1550.pdf
The above is the manual you actually need.
The default installer code is 1500.
To turn off the dialer, you want location 12 turn ON option 1.
The default pins are the two pins at the center top of the motherboard marked "EEPROM Reset"
http://www.alarmtech.org/customer_support/manuals/dsc/pc1550.pdf
The above is the manual you actually need.
The default installer code is 1500.
To turn off the dialer, you want location 12 turn ON option 1.
The default pins are the two pins at the center top of the motherboard marked "EEPROM Reset"
Tommp
01-01-09, 05:01 PM
The first thing you are doing wrong is confusing a PC1550 with a PC1555. The 2 systems use radically different programming models.
http://www.alarmtech.org/customer_support/manuals/dsc/pc1550.pdf
The above is the manual you actually need.
The default installer code is 1500.
To turn off the dialer, you want location 12 turn ON option 1.
The default pins are the two pins at the center top of the motherboard marked "EEPROM Reset"
Thanks that helped immensely. I got the communicator disabled on tyhe EN1550.My bad on downloading the wrong manual. Also, i figured out I was looking for the deafult pins on the keypad board. duh!
Now I have a new problem.
One of my zones #4 - windows shows that somehting is open or a bad sensor or whatever and therefore I cannot set the alarm. I checked for trouble conditions (*2) and none show.
I checked all of the windows to assure all were shout and they are. I did a resistance test but I am not sure it was done correctly. I opened each window and put one of the multitester leads on each of the screwheads (sensor wire leads) on the magnetic sensor and got a reading of infinity. I then closed the window and did the same and got a reading of 0 ohms.
I know that when the guy installed new sensors last time he had a few upstairs where the wires were apparently bad and so he just tied the wires together. I checked all of thsoe too. All worked fine for about 8 months.
Can anybody give me a hint on troubleshooting my windows\wires\sensors or whatever direction I should go. For now I am using bypass on windows to get the alarm to set for now. But, i would like to have the windows set too.
Thanks
http://www.alarmtech.org/customer_support/manuals/dsc/pc1550.pdf
The above is the manual you actually need.
The default installer code is 1500.
To turn off the dialer, you want location 12 turn ON option 1.
The default pins are the two pins at the center top of the motherboard marked "EEPROM Reset"
Thanks that helped immensely. I got the communicator disabled on tyhe EN1550.My bad on downloading the wrong manual. Also, i figured out I was looking for the deafult pins on the keypad board. duh!
Now I have a new problem.
One of my zones #4 - windows shows that somehting is open or a bad sensor or whatever and therefore I cannot set the alarm. I checked for trouble conditions (*2) and none show.
I checked all of the windows to assure all were shout and they are. I did a resistance test but I am not sure it was done correctly. I opened each window and put one of the multitester leads on each of the screwheads (sensor wire leads) on the magnetic sensor and got a reading of infinity. I then closed the window and did the same and got a reading of 0 ohms.
I know that when the guy installed new sensors last time he had a few upstairs where the wires were apparently bad and so he just tied the wires together. I checked all of thsoe too. All worked fine for about 8 months.
Can anybody give me a hint on troubleshooting my windows\wires\sensors or whatever direction I should go. For now I am using bypass on windows to get the alarm to set for now. But, i would like to have the windows set too.
Thanks
MrRonFL
01-01-09, 05:18 PM
Simple test. Jumper the zone closed at the panel end. If the zone closes then the problem is in your field wiring. It most likely means that you either have a bad contact, a missing magnet, or an opening on that circuit that you didn't know you had. The worst case is bad wiring.
Tommp
01-01-09, 05:59 PM
I jumpered Z4 to the com next to it on the board and nothing happened. The zone 4 light stayed on. Not sure I did the jumper correctly but Z4 to com seemd logical.
If i did in fact do the jumper correctly , does that mean I have a motherboard problem with zone 4?
Thx
If i did in fact do the jumper correctly , does that mean I have a motherboard problem with zone 4?
Thx
MrRonFL
01-01-09, 07:36 PM
Is your system set to use the zone resistors? If so, you have to use one of the resistors to close the loop.
If not, you were doing it right, and that's a bad sign, because this is a not uncommon failure mode for DSC panels. Once it starts, it eventually spreads to other zone inputs (it's usually triggered by a close lighting strike).
If not, you were doing it right, and that's a bad sign, because this is a not uncommon failure mode for DSC panels. Once it starts, it eventually spreads to other zone inputs (it's usually triggered by a close lighting strike).
Tommp
01-01-09, 08:54 PM
Not sure if system is set to use zone resistors. is there a way for me to tell?
Thx for all your help. This has been a greta learning experince for me. i would rather not have the problem but I do like learning new "stuff".
You are a patient soul. I wish I was an expert at somehting so I could help with moderating. Jack of all trades - master of NONE - thats me
Thx for all your help. This has been a greta learning experince for me. i would rather not have the problem but I do like learning new "stuff".
You are a patient soul. I wish I was an expert at somehting so I could help with moderating. Jack of all trades - master of NONE - thats me
MrRonFL
01-02-09, 05:32 AM
In general, if your system uses resistors, if they aren't visible at any of the devices, an ohmmeter reading of the individual loops will be 1000 ohms, give or take a bit.