Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - older sears upright freezer won't cool
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wilneill
12-31-08, 01:36 PM
The freezer thawed. Both fans work and the compressor is sometimes warm and sometimes hot. I removed the plastic cover on the side of compressor and noticed a caplike fitting with a thin metal plate attached to wires. The freezer will attempt to run for a few seconds and stop. The compressor feels like it is humming during these short periods. When it stops a spark occurs on the thin metal plate.
Hoping someone may instruct me on proper trouble-shotting.
Thanks and Happy New Year
Hoping someone may instruct me on proper trouble-shotting.
Thanks and Happy New Year
himeros
12-31-08, 07:28 PM
Unplug the freezer, and let the compressor cool down. Remove the relay from the side of the compressor, and shake it hard, if it sounds like there is sand or rocks inside, it is bad. It sounds like the compressor is not running, could be the relay, or the compressor might have gone bad.
H.
H.
wilneill
01-01-09, 09:04 PM
Is the relay a rectangular device about 1.5 inches long, with a coil of wire, plunger and 4 wires connections. It is marked GE 11, 548836, FSP 5073, 3ARR12W6289. I shook this device and it made a clicking noise like something was sliding up and down.
daddyjohn
01-01-09, 11:28 PM
Yes, that is the relay. The round device that clicks and sparks is the overload. For your situation, the easiest thing to do is replace the relay and overload. If the compressor still won't start, it's probably bad.
himeros
01-02-09, 05:35 PM
That type of rely doesn't cause much of a problem, I suspect some other type of problem. The newer relays are much less trouble free. If both fans are running, the compressor should be running also. If the compressor is running and the coils inside the freezer are not cold, you most likely have a system problem. The compressor should be very warm to the touch if it is running, and making a nice humming sound with no clicking, or strange noise coming from it. The small tube from the compressor, "the high side" should be too hot to hold on to if the compressor is working, and you don't have a system problem. If you have a system problem, the compressor will run 24/7 except for the automatic defrost circuit 2 times a day for about 25 minutes each. Post back.
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Icehouse
01-03-09, 10:23 AM
:) The relay you described is a "Current" relay. When shaking it, it should make noise (contacts). To test it put the leads of a multi-meter into the two holes. With the meter set for ohms, turn the relay upside down. If it goes from infinite (8 on its side) to zero it shows the contacts are closing.
Next look at the coil of wire around the relay see where it starts and ends. Place you meter probes on each end. If you get a reading the coil and relay are probably good.
If this is so, your compressor is bound.
You may want to try a 3-N- 1 it consists of a relay capacitor and overload.
Next look at the coil of wire around the relay see where it starts and ends. Place you meter probes on each end. If you get a reading the coil and relay are probably good.
If this is so, your compressor is bound.
You may want to try a 3-N- 1 it consists of a relay capacitor and overload.