Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - Generac generator questions

I have gotten a Generac generator in and cannot find the engine numbers (model, type and code). The information on the generator are:
Generac
Wheelhouse
5550 - Rated Watts
Model - 01646
Rev no - 03
Serial number - 1010065893
AC amps - 45.8/22.9
Briggs and Stratton engine
I need to ask several questions but need to find the engine numbers first.

I found the numbers on the engine...M-204412 T-0142E1 C-040316YD. The engine hasn't been started in over a year. The gas tank was drained and re-filled. It won't start now but when you spray starter fluid in the air filter, it will start right up and run a couple of seconds. I've checked the compression, and its only 60PSI. I've pulled the carburetor and took it apart and everything "looks" good. It is a Nikki carburetor and I looked up an IPL for it and there isn't that many parts in a repair kit. A float needle, a bowl gasket and a few gaskets. Dose anyone have any ideas of what to look for...this is the first Nikki carburetor i've worked on.

i don't have the breakdown of the carb but since you know you have ignition and it starts it's obvious you are not getting fuel to the cylinder. start with the needle and seat to see if the bowl is filling. then check the main jet for obstruction.
lay off the starting fluid. you can use plain gas and get the same results.

Is this nikki the one with the bowl held on with 2 screws? If so, and it has a plastic inside, then it's pretty simple. Get some torch tip cleaners if you don't already have some (from a welding supply shop). They are perfect for cleaning carbs. Use a tiny one to clear the small holes in the side of the throat near where the throttle plate closes against the throat. Clear the jets in the inside, and make sure the float and needle are operable. Spray it out with a good carb cleaner. I prefer valucraft from autozone or next dimension from advance. They are cheap, but the best by far. You should be able to get it running well like this.

Don't be concerned with the compression readings just yet, especially after using starting fluid (it can wash the cylinder and the lack of oil on the rings causes a lower comp reading).

Cheese - Is it better to spray gas directly into the throat of the carburetor (as flopshot suggested)? That's the first time I heard that "starting fluid" would wash the oil off of the rings and cylinder. That's why it "pays" to keep you eyes and ears open. Incidentally, the bowl was full of fuel when I took the carburetor apart. It is a carburetor like you mentioned.

I prefer to use gas. Starting fluid has less lubricity than gas, and is a bit harsh. In small doses on occasion, it doesn't hurt anything. Prolonged excessive use washes the oil from the cylinder. Gas can do the same but not as bad. I don't think it's anything to get too concerned about, meaning I don't think it's going to ruin your engine. It's just not so good for it.

i've seen the results of missapplied starting fluid ( sprayed directly into the carb). .it looks alot like a piston with no dome. :eek:

Cheese,
I've finally got back on the Briggs (M-204412) engine with the Nikki carburetor. I took the carburetor apart and it was clean as a pin and I ran a piece of tag wire in "all" the small holes and passages. After I reinstalled the carburetor the engine acted like it did before. As long as I sprayed gas into the carburetor it was easy to start and ran as long as I sprayed gas. I pulled the bowl off and it was full of gas. I'm wondering if I should just replace the carburetor? I can get a replacement for $52.00. The only thing I didn't remove is the welch plug (because it is in an awkward position).

Welch plugs are cheap and easy to remove and install. The transitional holes behind the welch plug could be blocked causing your problem.

Does this one have the fuel shutoff solenoid on the bottom of the carb?

No, it dosen't have a fuel shutoff solenoid. I'm going to pull out the welch plug and have a look.

Did you clear the brass jet that pushes up in the bottom of the plastic stem that drops to the bottom of the bowl?

Yes, cleaned it with a welding tip cleaner...was already spotless. Does the air filter have to be in place?

Nope...you should be able to run it without the filter for testing purposes just fine. Is the rubber gasket intact between the plastic insert and the carb body? Is there a spring in the bottom of the bowl that holds the plastic insert up tight to the rest of the carb body? If not, the passage from the main jet is incomplete to the carb body.

I decided to go with a new Nikki carburetor. After installation...started on first pull. Still wish I could know what was wrong with the old carburetor. Thanks for the ideas.