Faux Finishing - blue tape takes paint/primer off
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : blue tape takes paint/primer off
markus5
12-16-08, 04:56 PM
I am working on a faux grasscloth finish in a client's master bathroom. The walls were previously covered with paper until a plumbing failure damaged the areas around the tub and shower.
She arranged for the repairmen to also prep the walls for the faux finish. I advised her to make sure they removed all residue from any wallpaper adhesive, then sand and prime the walls with a top quality primer.
I applied the base coat and after 24 hours drying time, applied 3M quick release tape to form vertical panels. I then glazed every other panel and, again, waited 24 hours to dry.
About half way through the tape removal process there were several areas where the base coat of paint and primer stuck to the tape and popped off of the wall. In some areas I can see the drywall tape. Did it remove the drywall mud also? Or was there not enough to begin with?
My concern now is if I continue and tape off the other panels, will the areas of the glazed panels pop off when I remove the tape. Most likely I suspect.
Is this the result of shoddy drywall work, improper prep after the removal of the paper, or both?
Will saving the faux finish cost me too much time or should I sand down the existing glaze, reprime and paint a solid color?
She arranged for the repairmen to also prep the walls for the faux finish. I advised her to make sure they removed all residue from any wallpaper adhesive, then sand and prime the walls with a top quality primer.
I applied the base coat and after 24 hours drying time, applied 3M quick release tape to form vertical panels. I then glazed every other panel and, again, waited 24 hours to dry.
About half way through the tape removal process there were several areas where the base coat of paint and primer stuck to the tape and popped off of the wall. In some areas I can see the drywall tape. Did it remove the drywall mud also? Or was there not enough to begin with?
My concern now is if I continue and tape off the other panels, will the areas of the glazed panels pop off when I remove the tape. Most likely I suspect.
Is this the result of shoddy drywall work, improper prep after the removal of the paper, or both?
Will saving the faux finish cost me too much time or should I sand down the existing glaze, reprime and paint a solid color?
marksr
12-17-08, 03:55 AM
Welcome to the forums!
Tape on fresh paint can always be tricky. Latex paints/primers can take a week or more to cure. if the drywall tape is visable the odds are that the tape pulled off some joint compound along with the primer.
I've done very little faux painting, have you taped over this glaze coat after 24hrs before? Do you know if the original bath rm paint was latex or oil base?
Tape on fresh paint can always be tricky. Latex paints/primers can take a week or more to cure. if the drywall tape is visable the odds are that the tape pulled off some joint compound along with the primer.
I've done very little faux painting, have you taped over this glaze coat after 24hrs before? Do you know if the original bath rm paint was latex or oil base?
markus5
12-17-08, 06:48 AM
I have done faux finishes in the past but haven't done one in a while. The only trouble I've had with tape was before I found 3M quick release blue tape. No problems with this tape until now. I have painted floor cloths with no problems with tape removal after the 24 hour drying time.
This is why I suspected that the problem was due to something other than the tape. Given the fact that the primer and joint compound came off also is another reason I thought the problem isn't a result of improper curing of my basecoat.
The room was wall papered when my client purchased the home so we don't know what type of paint was originally applied, i.e. latex or oil. Although, most of the paint stuck and the tape released fine.
The tape was also pulling off areas of primer from the ceiling where it meets the wall. The primer was applied several days before I applied my basecoat.
Could this be caused by shoddy drywall work? I did notice other areas that I didn't tape where the paint has bubbled.
I think I should scrap the faux finish, sand the glazed areas, reprime and paint a solid color. Of course, I worry that my client may see problems down the road with even a solid color peeling or blistering.
This is why I suspected that the problem was due to something other than the tape. Given the fact that the primer and joint compound came off also is another reason I thought the problem isn't a result of improper curing of my basecoat.
The room was wall papered when my client purchased the home so we don't know what type of paint was originally applied, i.e. latex or oil. Although, most of the paint stuck and the tape released fine.
The tape was also pulling off areas of primer from the ceiling where it meets the wall. The primer was applied several days before I applied my basecoat.
Could this be caused by shoddy drywall work? I did notice other areas that I didn't tape where the paint has bubbled.
I think I should scrap the faux finish, sand the glazed areas, reprime and paint a solid color. Of course, I worry that my client may see problems down the road with even a solid color peeling or blistering.
FauxDiva2221
12-17-08, 10:40 AM
Hello, I am a faux painter---going on 6 years now. Blue tape ---safe release----60 day is the only tape that I use. When the tape pulls off all the way through the layers it is usually---not that the uncoat is not dry---but that the substrate was not prepared properly-------there could have been dry wall dust---that was not removed at the time of construction---it only becomes apparent when the stress of pulling the tape ---cause it to give way----you can never tell this until ..... Unfortunately it could be anywhere-----if you are using a texture product ---you can camoflage it---if using only glaze ---simply repair area and redo the one panel---You cannot go all the way to the drywall tape and more than likely its is only in spots anyway. Note: alway pull tape very slowly and at a 45to 90 degree angle. Note: after wall paper removal--alway wait 24 hours or more if heat or air in not on----before priming walls---recommended primer an oil base or shellac base.----because it isolates any residual wall paper paste(you can never be assured it all comes off) left on the wall. If you do use a water based primer the water in the latex could reactivate any paste that is still on the wall----that can cause your top coat to fail or your faux finish. Good luck kathy
marksr
12-17-08, 01:49 PM
If the house was built prior to the '70s, the bath rm was most likely originally painted with oil base. After the '70s is almost always latex. When latex is applied over oil base enamel without the proper primer, sooner or later there will be adhesion issues. I don't know if this has anything to do with the problem your having.
Priming over dust/dirt can always cause adhesion problems.
Priming over dust/dirt can always cause adhesion problems.
markus5
12-17-08, 08:53 PM
Hey thanks for the input marksr and faux diva.
The house was actually built in 97. My client purchased from the builder so the paper may have been installed after construction.
I must admit that I opted for the 30 day release tape to save a little. But as I stated before, I had never had any trouble with any of the blue tapes I had used in the past. I'm always careful during the removal stage and do pull out and away.
So, you've both confirmed my instinct, it seems the walls were improperly prepared. Dust/wallpaper glue residue must have been on the walls when they applied the primer. And I'm stuck with the repairs!:madhell:
I've also had some issues where the wall meets the shower with the caulk. The installer must have smoothed his bead with a wet finger and pushed a thin layer out onto the wall that I couldn't see. You know what happened next.:eek:
I've already cut and scraped the excess caulk and mudded over.
During this repair I could see in a glint of light that the wall was giving as I pushed against it, so now moisture issues?!
I've decided to place some fans, and possibly a dehumidifier, into the space over the weekend before I go any further. I would ask the homeowners not to shower in there but unfortunately, one has a sprained ankle and the other shower is downstairs.
Still not sure if I'll continue with the faux finish. My client is already out 1,200 on this project, and I had bid it at 2,200. If she ends up with a solid color was it worth it. Could have knocked that out in a couple of days and may not have had any problems show up, for a while anyway.
Thanks again
The house was actually built in 97. My client purchased from the builder so the paper may have been installed after construction.
I must admit that I opted for the 30 day release tape to save a little. But as I stated before, I had never had any trouble with any of the blue tapes I had used in the past. I'm always careful during the removal stage and do pull out and away.
So, you've both confirmed my instinct, it seems the walls were improperly prepared. Dust/wallpaper glue residue must have been on the walls when they applied the primer. And I'm stuck with the repairs!:madhell:
I've also had some issues where the wall meets the shower with the caulk. The installer must have smoothed his bead with a wet finger and pushed a thin layer out onto the wall that I couldn't see. You know what happened next.:eek:
I've already cut and scraped the excess caulk and mudded over.
During this repair I could see in a glint of light that the wall was giving as I pushed against it, so now moisture issues?!
I've decided to place some fans, and possibly a dehumidifier, into the space over the weekend before I go any further. I would ask the homeowners not to shower in there but unfortunately, one has a sprained ankle and the other shower is downstairs.
Still not sure if I'll continue with the faux finish. My client is already out 1,200 on this project, and I had bid it at 2,200. If she ends up with a solid color was it worth it. Could have knocked that out in a couple of days and may not have had any problems show up, for a while anyway.
Thanks again