Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - DSC PC1832 programming help
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BCITstudent
12-12-08, 10:38 PM
I'm a security systems student having a bit of trouble with programming. For example 50% of what I try goes wrong and it's time consuming getting it right. Anyway, I'm about to terminate a smoke detector (class b fire loop with power supervision; there's a 5.6k resistor between the N/O and the N/O. Do I wire the power to the Aux + Aux- or Aux+ and PGM out. Do you have any other quick tips. Thanks.
Stevetra
12-13-08, 07:06 AM
I am not a pro, but I did install this system in my home.
The wiring is pretty clear in the installation manual, and it is downloadable if you dont have one.
On a 2 wire detector you should be using a 2200Ω SEOL
Connect the positive side of the detector to to AUX+
Connect the negative side to PGM 1 or 2 depending on your detector, the PGM output on this unit is as follows
PGM 1,3,4 = 50mA
PGM 2 300mA
My DSC FSA 410 series detector uses PGM 1
Hope this helps
The wiring is pretty clear in the installation manual, and it is downloadable if you dont have one.
On a 2 wire detector you should be using a 2200Ω SEOL
Connect the positive side of the detector to to AUX+
Connect the negative side to PGM 1 or 2 depending on your detector, the PGM output on this unit is as follows
PGM 1,3,4 = 50mA
PGM 2 300mA
My DSC FSA 410 series detector uses PGM 1
Hope this helps
BCITstudent
12-13-08, 10:48 AM
Thanks, the smoke detector requires 12v although I'll double check this and the EOL is 5.6K, which I'll also double check.
MrRonFL
12-13-08, 11:06 AM
There are two diffferent configurations; 1 for 4 wire smokes and 1 for 2 wire smokes.
The 4 wire smokes use the standard 5.6k resistor. The alarm connection goes to a standard zone set as a fire zone. The power connects to Aux + and PGM2. Program the PGM as type 03 (sensor reset).
The 2-wire smoke uses the 2.2k resistor. Connect the + connection to Aux + and the - connection to PGM2. Program the output as 04 (2 wire support).
That resistor on the 4 wire should be between COM and NO(out) (if your smokes are labled like most). The zone wire is on COM and the other NO (in).
The 4 wire smokes use the standard 5.6k resistor. The alarm connection goes to a standard zone set as a fire zone. The power connects to Aux + and PGM2. Program the PGM as type 03 (sensor reset).
The 2-wire smoke uses the 2.2k resistor. Connect the + connection to Aux + and the - connection to PGM2. Program the output as 04 (2 wire support).
That resistor on the 4 wire should be between COM and NO(out) (if your smokes are labled like most). The zone wire is on COM and the other NO (in).
BCITstudent
12-13-08, 02:02 PM
Thanks, I'll be wiring that up shortly and you've saved me many hours I'm sure. Can you explain the Stay/Away zone definition and the quick arm, quick exit functions. And right now I have the front door as a zone 1 (delay 1) and the back door as a zone 2 (delay 2) with exit and entry times. However the bell goes off when either of these doors is opened during entry. Can this be changed so just the keypad buzzer alerts? Thanks for your help
Stevetra
12-13-08, 02:34 PM
I will try
Stay/Away zone definition
Stay is when you stay at home and are moving around inside the house
Away is when your gone, and no one is home.
So if you have a standard motion detector, you would define it so it is only active in away mode , so when you are home with the alarm set...you dont set the alarm off when you get up to have some popcorn.
The Quick Exit function allows you to open any
designated entry/exit zone one time; useful when you
need to check the mailbox or let the dog in or out.
I dont understand why your getting a instant alarm with zone options 01 and 02, they are delay options, and can be used on multiple zones. Are you sure your motion detector (if you have one) isnt picking up motion and setting of a instant zone?
The keypad may have a chime, it may not.
To make things easier, can you list the system, keypad, and attached devises..like smoke detectors glass break detectors ect...
It will make troubleshooting from 1500 miles away so much easier.
Stay/Away zone definition
Stay is when you stay at home and are moving around inside the house
Away is when your gone, and no one is home.
So if you have a standard motion detector, you would define it so it is only active in away mode , so when you are home with the alarm set...you dont set the alarm off when you get up to have some popcorn.
The Quick Exit function allows you to open any
designated entry/exit zone one time; useful when you
need to check the mailbox or let the dog in or out.
I dont understand why your getting a instant alarm with zone options 01 and 02, they are delay options, and can be used on multiple zones. Are you sure your motion detector (if you have one) isnt picking up motion and setting of a instant zone?
The keypad may have a chime, it may not.
To make things easier, can you list the system, keypad, and attached devises..like smoke detectors glass break detectors ect...
It will make troubleshooting from 1500 miles away so much easier.
BCITstudent
12-13-08, 03:48 PM
The control panel is a dsc pc1832. I have 2 keypads but I'm only using the dsc lcd 5500 right now. The keypad wiring is red +, blk -, yellow, green and I'm using awg #22. I have 2 door contacts wired into the CP's input strip Z1 COM Z2 and 2 window contacts into Z3 COM Z4. I have a strobe light into the bell output red + and black - just as a bell simulator (to avoid the noise). I have a smoke detector (4 wire class b fire loop with power supervision) and a powered PIR and a zone expander, and I have plans for a 2nd partition but I want to get through some of this basic stuff first.
Stevetra
12-13-08, 04:38 PM
[QUOTE=BCITstudent;1481635]I have a smoke detector (4 wire class b fire loop with power supervision) and a powered PIR and a zone expanderQUOTE]
Ok, so you have a 4 wire detector, so the wiring is different than I discribed. it needs to be hooked up the way Ron discribed.
Is your PIR set to [04] Interior?
Also, do you have resistors on your door and window contacts?
You can choose not to use them, but you have to make sure your system is set correctly or you will get tamper alarms.
Lastly, do you have a complete installation manual?
If not, here are the links
Programming Sheet
http://www.baranharper.com/pdfs/powerseriesprogrammingworksheetsmanual.pdf
Installation Guide
http://www.baranharper.com/pdfs/powerseriesinstallmanual.pdf
Reference Manual
http://www.baranharper.com/pdfs/powerseriesreferencemanual.pdf
Ok, so you have a 4 wire detector, so the wiring is different than I discribed. it needs to be hooked up the way Ron discribed.
Is your PIR set to [04] Interior?
Also, do you have resistors on your door and window contacts?
You can choose not to use them, but you have to make sure your system is set correctly or you will get tamper alarms.
Lastly, do you have a complete installation manual?
If not, here are the links
Programming Sheet
http://www.baranharper.com/pdfs/powerseriesprogrammingworksheetsmanual.pdf
Installation Guide
http://www.baranharper.com/pdfs/powerseriesinstallmanual.pdf
Reference Manual
http://www.baranharper.com/pdfs/powerseriesreferencemanual.pdf
BCITstudent
12-14-08, 04:20 PM
I'm not using resistors and I've had no tamper alarms. The zones I'm using have seol and doel configured as N in zone atributes. I have the User's Guide, the Installation Manual, Programming Worksheets, the Reference Manual and the DSC Software Update (referring to Application Notes). I'm missing appendix B. Today's work includes (listed in priority) install a zone expander, create a second partition, install a second keypad, wire the smoke detector and a PIR into the 2nd partition. And then further options would be to create a common zone (a PIR in a shared laundry room for example) and then split arm partitions 1 and 2 (a house with a basement suite with it's own zones and keypad). That's it; just a few minutes work for the struggling student.