Green Landscaping and Gardening - the neighbors blight
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mikiel
12-08-08, 11:57 PM
i just moved into a new neighborhood and the house next door is D-lapitated! we've got a little space in the yard and i was thinking about puting in something fast growing like aspen but i was told that they are veunerable to catching disease especially in proximity of rhodidendron of which there are many in the neighborhood. i live in portland, oregon which has mild winters and dry summers. i would like to put in an attractive grouping of three trees to put a nice border between the yards as well as keeping our area shaded in the summer. i would like to have something that will fill out quickly and thus have the benefits of saving on cooling costs as well as placing a nice green veil between myself and my neighbors beer can "collection". i'm looking for trees that will enjoy our northwestern weather, i've even entertained the idea of hops, passion flowers or kiwi on the chainlink fence. if there's any way to incorperate one of them i'm open to all ideas.
twelvepole
12-09-08, 09:11 AM
The aspen tree is dediduous and would not offer year round protection from the folks next door because they lose their leaves in the fall. Aspens are shallow-rooted and will kill grass. And, roots produce shoots that are undesirable in a lawn. It does best near water and marshy areas. Both rhododenron and aspen are subject to root rot, a soil born fungus that can be transported by runoff.
For year round privacy, an evergreen would be best. In addition to seeking an evergreen, you need plantings that will not outgrow their allotted space at maturity or cause other problems in the landscape for you or neighbors. Without knowing available space, it is difficult to make a recommendation. Visit local nurseries and contact local Cooperative Extension Agent for recommendations for your particular situation.
When selecting vines, you will again like something that offers an evergreen, year-round blocking of view. You will also want something that is not invasive or require much work to maintain. Perhaps a better option would be to plant evergreen shrubs along the fence to not only hide the fence but the neighbors. As with any plant up for consideration it is important to know growing and maintenance requirements of vines and evergreen shrubs and trees. Local nurseries and Cooperative Extension Agent can make recommendations.
Evergreen Shrubs as Privacy Screens (http://landscaping.about.com/cs/hedgesfences/a/privacy_fences_4.htm)
Contact local authorities re: trash in yard next door. This is usually the local Building Department. Complaints are usually held in confidence and in writing. Request that codes/ordinances be enforced.
For year round privacy, an evergreen would be best. In addition to seeking an evergreen, you need plantings that will not outgrow their allotted space at maturity or cause other problems in the landscape for you or neighbors. Without knowing available space, it is difficult to make a recommendation. Visit local nurseries and contact local Cooperative Extension Agent for recommendations for your particular situation.
When selecting vines, you will again like something that offers an evergreen, year-round blocking of view. You will also want something that is not invasive or require much work to maintain. Perhaps a better option would be to plant evergreen shrubs along the fence to not only hide the fence but the neighbors. As with any plant up for consideration it is important to know growing and maintenance requirements of vines and evergreen shrubs and trees. Local nurseries and Cooperative Extension Agent can make recommendations.
Evergreen Shrubs as Privacy Screens (http://landscaping.about.com/cs/hedgesfences/a/privacy_fences_4.htm)
Contact local authorities re: trash in yard next door. This is usually the local Building Department. Complaints are usually held in confidence and in writing. Request that codes/ordinances be enforced.
Newt
12-09-08, 12:00 PM
Hi Mikiel,
Some really good advice from Twelvepole. Other points for you to consider:
The size of the area available. You don't say how wide the mature crown of a tree could be. How much space is there?
Fast growing trees are usually a soft wood and more subject to breakage. Slow growing hardwoods are longer lived as well.
Maybe a wood privacy fence would be a better option along with a deciduous shade tree for the summer.
http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06900.htm
Newt
Some really good advice from Twelvepole. Other points for you to consider:
The size of the area available. You don't say how wide the mature crown of a tree could be. How much space is there?
Fast growing trees are usually a soft wood and more subject to breakage. Slow growing hardwoods are longer lived as well.
Maybe a wood privacy fence would be a better option along with a deciduous shade tree for the summer.
http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06900.htm
Newt
twelvepole
12-09-08, 12:18 PM
A privacy fence would go along way toward retaining the value on your home when it comes time for resale. If you opt for a fence, contact the local Building Code office re: permit.
Building Codes tend to restrict the height of privacy fences in most areas, and some restrict what materials can be used. For instance, in some areas, fences in front yards are often limited to 3' in height and 6' in back. In some areas, front yard fences can't extend beyond the front corner of the house. In some areas, what materials can be used in back tend to include more options than in front.
Most permit applications require a copy of the property survey. Fence placement at property line tends to vary as well. Some areas require a set back of a certain distance. Others allow for fence to be on the property line.
Building Codes tend to restrict the height of privacy fences in most areas, and some restrict what materials can be used. For instance, in some areas, fences in front yards are often limited to 3' in height and 6' in back. In some areas, front yard fences can't extend beyond the front corner of the house. In some areas, what materials can be used in back tend to include more options than in front.
Most permit applications require a copy of the property survey. Fence placement at property line tends to vary as well. Some areas require a set back of a certain distance. Others allow for fence to be on the property line.
mikiel
12-12-08, 08:47 PM
thank you for droppin' all that knowledge on me, i think i am going to farther explore the idea of putting in slower growing trees. in the grand scheme of things the renters next door are not likely to be there in the long run and twentyfive years from now i might regret having made a decision based on thier having lived there. so the question is what tree(s) will be best for adoption? the space in my back yard is about 35x30' there are no tall trees within at least 50' of any given point of this. i have ruled out conifers as beautiful they are, i am looking for something unique, something downright purrdie. my guess is that the space i have available might limit the ammount of trees, i'd like to put in three in an L shape that runs along the fenceline. my next day off i'm going to the nursery to talk latin with the tree-geeks out there. if y'all have any suggestions send them my way.
i have another question, i'm not certain that this qualifies as a "green" concearn but here goes. in the front yard there was the most dense rhodidendron i've ever seen. it is about 8' sphere and it was choking itself and tying itself in knots trying to get sunlight. about six months ago i thinned it out by about 1/3 and made it alot more comfortable. what i'd like to do now is take the top down and the base in by about a foot and begin to shape it into somewhat of a triangle standing on point.i believe i heared somewhere that rhodidendron will not grow thier leaves back on a branch if the branch is trimmed back behind the first group of leaves. is this true? i guess that this qualifies as a green question in the sense that if i get too excited about shaping this tree and thus end up with a bunch of bald patches i might then replace it and have wasted all of the energy that the nice little plant put into living so far.
i have another question, i'm not certain that this qualifies as a "green" concearn but here goes. in the front yard there was the most dense rhodidendron i've ever seen. it is about 8' sphere and it was choking itself and tying itself in knots trying to get sunlight. about six months ago i thinned it out by about 1/3 and made it alot more comfortable. what i'd like to do now is take the top down and the base in by about a foot and begin to shape it into somewhat of a triangle standing on point.i believe i heared somewhere that rhodidendron will not grow thier leaves back on a branch if the branch is trimmed back behind the first group of leaves. is this true? i guess that this qualifies as a green question in the sense that if i get too excited about shaping this tree and thus end up with a bunch of bald patches i might then replace it and have wasted all of the energy that the nice little plant put into living so far.
twelvepole
12-12-08, 10:55 PM
Pruning of rhododendron is best done immediately after spring flowering. Cut out dead wood. Cut back gangly branches to first bud junction. How to Prune Rhododendron - MonkeySee (http://www.monkeysee.com/play/10208-how-to-prune-rhododendron)
Most who severely cut back rhododendron cut back 1/2 of desired distance one spring and the other 1/2 the following spring. Always cut back to a growing point. Make clean cuts on an angle. Always remove dead wood and keep center of bush thinned to allow for good air circulation to prevent disease and die out.
Whatever you plant in your landscape, size at maturity is a major consideration. If blocking view, you will want something evergreen. You will also want something that does not have roots that interfere with lawn or reaches to foundation, sidewalk, driveway, etc. to cause damage. Make sure you purchase from a reputable nursery and purchase a species that does well in your growing zone and growing conditions.
Most who severely cut back rhododendron cut back 1/2 of desired distance one spring and the other 1/2 the following spring. Always cut back to a growing point. Make clean cuts on an angle. Always remove dead wood and keep center of bush thinned to allow for good air circulation to prevent disease and die out.
Whatever you plant in your landscape, size at maturity is a major consideration. If blocking view, you will want something evergreen. You will also want something that does not have roots that interfere with lawn or reaches to foundation, sidewalk, driveway, etc. to cause damage. Make sure you purchase from a reputable nursery and purchase a species that does well in your growing zone and growing conditions.
Newt
12-13-08, 12:01 PM
...so the question is what tree(s) will be best for adoption? the space in my back yard is about 35x30'... i have ruled out conifers as beautiful they are, i am looking for something unique, something downright purrdie. my guess is that the space i have available might limit the ammount of trees, i'd like to put in three in an L shape that runs along the fenceline.
With the space you have available you will have to choose carefully. The width of the mature canopy of the average ornamental ("purrdie") tree is 20' to 25'. Keep in mind that if there is a house in that 30' or 35' dimension, then the outer edge of the mature canopy of the tree closest to the house will need to be at least 5' from the house. That would mean that a tree with a 25' mature canopy would need to be planted at least 15' from any structure. When selecting a tree also consider whether the tree will eventually have large surface roots that will someday interfere with your ability to have a lawn and use of the yard.
I would suggest that once you have some potential trees selected, you draw the yard to scale, include any structures and the fence, and add circles to scale for the mature canopy of the potential trees. Be sure to put a dot in the center of the circle so you know where the trunk of the tree will be. Don't forget to add 5' for distance from a major structure such as a house. That way you'll know if you will have them spaced properly.
For something really "downright purrdie", my favorite tree is Oxydendrum arboreum aka Sourwood aka lily of the valley tree aka sorrel tree, and it's a fragrant native. I'm thinking you would only be able to plant two, but they would be striking. They tend to have a more pyramidal canopy, have fragrant flowers in summer and have the most beautiful color in fall. One of the most striking fall displays of all trees. Do a google search using the botanical name and click on 'Images' for more pics.
http://www.floridata.com/ref/O/oxydendr.cfm
http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Plant.asp?code=A887
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/OXYARBA.pdf
Keep this site so you can look up other potential candidates. It doesn't have pretty pics, but has loads of other helpful info such as ground litter, large surface roots, best size at maturity, etc. You can search by common or scientific (botanical) names as well.
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/index.htm
Other smaller ornamental trees that come to mind in order of my preference for your situation would be:
Stewartia - green leaves turn orange-red to purplish in the fall. Some have interesting color to the bark for added winter interest. These trees are related to Camellia, so some shade in the afternoon won't bother them.
http://www.pollyhillarboretum.org/StewartiaIntroductions.pdf
Some cultivars to explore:
Stewartia gemmata - may not be able to grow in your zone which I think is zone 8. Grows best in zones 5 to 7.
Stewartia koreana - (Korean Stewartia) exceptionally bright orange-red color. Its flowers open wider and spread more than those of other Stewartias.
Stewartia monadelpha - (Tall Stewartia) (Orange-Bark Stewartia) has the smallest flowers among Stewartia but they are in great numbers. The flowers are 1 to 1 ½ inches wide.
http://www.greatplantpicks.org/index.php?page=display&id=2857&searchterm=Stewartia&searchtype=key
Stewartia pseudocamellia - (Japanese Stewartia) has 2 to 2 ½ inch wide flowers with bright yellow anthers. This is a medium-sized tree with attractive light and dark peeling bark.
Stewartia rostrata - (Chinese Stewartia) is a small tree having very many clusters of small flowers which tend to face downward. Zone: 6-8
Stewartia serrata - (Sawtooth Stewartia) has flowers are 2 to 2 ½ inches wide, the petals are stained with red on the outside at the base and the anthers are yellow.
Stewartia sinensis - (Chinese Stewartia) has fragrant, white, cup-shaped flowers 1 ½” wide. Small tree or shrub. Rich red fall leaf color. Smooth greyish white or yellowish bark.
Crabapple - so many cultivars these days. Beautiful spring flowers, fruit for the birds and some with nice fall color. Select a cultivar that has the smaller apples so the birds will be able to eat them easily and you'll have less fruit litter too. Some have more resistance to Japanese beetles then others - see first link for that.
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id68/id68.pdf
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/cultivars/mallus_hybrids-table.html
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/common.html#C
Cercis canadensis aka redbud - does have some limb breakage and litter but native, feeds the birds and there is one with dark purple leaves called Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansy'. Flowers in spring before it leafs out with either lavender/pink or white blossoms.
http://www.hgtv.com/landscaping/redbud-eastern/index.html
Cornus aka dogwood (natives and others) will feed the birds and has nice fall color. Comes in white, pink or even red 'flowers' that are actually bracts. Nice fall color too.
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/index.htm#C
If you intend to plant these trees yourself, let me know and I'll give you sites on how to plant, water and mulch.
Newt
With the space you have available you will have to choose carefully. The width of the mature canopy of the average ornamental ("purrdie") tree is 20' to 25'. Keep in mind that if there is a house in that 30' or 35' dimension, then the outer edge of the mature canopy of the tree closest to the house will need to be at least 5' from the house. That would mean that a tree with a 25' mature canopy would need to be planted at least 15' from any structure. When selecting a tree also consider whether the tree will eventually have large surface roots that will someday interfere with your ability to have a lawn and use of the yard.
I would suggest that once you have some potential trees selected, you draw the yard to scale, include any structures and the fence, and add circles to scale for the mature canopy of the potential trees. Be sure to put a dot in the center of the circle so you know where the trunk of the tree will be. Don't forget to add 5' for distance from a major structure such as a house. That way you'll know if you will have them spaced properly.
For something really "downright purrdie", my favorite tree is Oxydendrum arboreum aka Sourwood aka lily of the valley tree aka sorrel tree, and it's a fragrant native. I'm thinking you would only be able to plant two, but they would be striking. They tend to have a more pyramidal canopy, have fragrant flowers in summer and have the most beautiful color in fall. One of the most striking fall displays of all trees. Do a google search using the botanical name and click on 'Images' for more pics.
http://www.floridata.com/ref/O/oxydendr.cfm
http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Plant.asp?code=A887
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/OXYARBA.pdf
Keep this site so you can look up other potential candidates. It doesn't have pretty pics, but has loads of other helpful info such as ground litter, large surface roots, best size at maturity, etc. You can search by common or scientific (botanical) names as well.
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/index.htm
Other smaller ornamental trees that come to mind in order of my preference for your situation would be:
Stewartia - green leaves turn orange-red to purplish in the fall. Some have interesting color to the bark for added winter interest. These trees are related to Camellia, so some shade in the afternoon won't bother them.
http://www.pollyhillarboretum.org/StewartiaIntroductions.pdf
Some cultivars to explore:
Stewartia gemmata - may not be able to grow in your zone which I think is zone 8. Grows best in zones 5 to 7.
Stewartia koreana - (Korean Stewartia) exceptionally bright orange-red color. Its flowers open wider and spread more than those of other Stewartias.
Stewartia monadelpha - (Tall Stewartia) (Orange-Bark Stewartia) has the smallest flowers among Stewartia but they are in great numbers. The flowers are 1 to 1 ½ inches wide.
http://www.greatplantpicks.org/index.php?page=display&id=2857&searchterm=Stewartia&searchtype=key
Stewartia pseudocamellia - (Japanese Stewartia) has 2 to 2 ½ inch wide flowers with bright yellow anthers. This is a medium-sized tree with attractive light and dark peeling bark.
Stewartia rostrata - (Chinese Stewartia) is a small tree having very many clusters of small flowers which tend to face downward. Zone: 6-8
Stewartia serrata - (Sawtooth Stewartia) has flowers are 2 to 2 ½ inches wide, the petals are stained with red on the outside at the base and the anthers are yellow.
Stewartia sinensis - (Chinese Stewartia) has fragrant, white, cup-shaped flowers 1 ½” wide. Small tree or shrub. Rich red fall leaf color. Smooth greyish white or yellowish bark.
Crabapple - so many cultivars these days. Beautiful spring flowers, fruit for the birds and some with nice fall color. Select a cultivar that has the smaller apples so the birds will be able to eat them easily and you'll have less fruit litter too. Some have more resistance to Japanese beetles then others - see first link for that.
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id68/id68.pdf
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/cultivars/mallus_hybrids-table.html
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/common.html#C
Cercis canadensis aka redbud - does have some limb breakage and litter but native, feeds the birds and there is one with dark purple leaves called Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansy'. Flowers in spring before it leafs out with either lavender/pink or white blossoms.
http://www.hgtv.com/landscaping/redbud-eastern/index.html
Cornus aka dogwood (natives and others) will feed the birds and has nice fall color. Comes in white, pink or even red 'flowers' that are actually bracts. Nice fall color too.
http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/index.htm#C
If you intend to plant these trees yourself, let me know and I'll give you sites on how to plant, water and mulch.
Newt
mikiel
12-13-08, 06:24 PM
awesome info 12' and newt! funny thing that you should reccomend about a half dozen camellia relitaves. when we first moved in i painted a mural on the wall right in front of you when you first walk in. it consisted of a large tree in the foreground and an old building in the back. it was a stencil style painting (positive and negitave space only) well there was a crow towards the top of the tree and a few weeks ago i decided that he needed a little company. "not another crow, that would be too dreary. i'd like to go the other way." i said to myself "i've got it, a camellia!" and so now the tree has a branch that extends far to the left and exhibits a tight red camillia.
i just realized that now my neighbors can identify who they are by the description of my wall piece, clean up your chitt,yo!
anyhow, as far as the trees go i think we have a winner, thank you.
i just realized that now my neighbors can identify who they are by the description of my wall piece, clean up your chitt,yo!
anyhow, as far as the trees go i think we have a winner, thank you.
twelvepole
12-13-08, 06:31 PM
We aim to be of service and answer posters' questions. To complete the cycle, it would be greatly appreciated if you would keep us up to date. Newt and I get little feedback. If your artist, as you state, then we are sure we will hear from you again.
Newt
12-13-08, 10:46 PM
Mikiel, you are so very welcome! Of course pictures after you plant would be wonderful. :) A pic of that mural wouldn't hurt either. ;)
I forgot to mention you may have to mail order some of these. You can use this site to check references and even search by plant material and/or by state to see what is near you. Look for the catagory of Ornamental Trees and Shrubs and choose your state.
http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/
Ooo, look what I found not too terribly far from you.
http://www.forestfarm.com/search/search.asp?aPage=1&index=genus&field-keywords=Stewartia&Go.x=0&Go.y=0&Go=Go
http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/c/25/
Newt
I forgot to mention you may have to mail order some of these. You can use this site to check references and even search by plant material and/or by state to see what is near you. Look for the catagory of Ornamental Trees and Shrubs and choose your state.
http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/
Ooo, look what I found not too terribly far from you.
http://www.forestfarm.com/search/search.asp?aPage=1&index=genus&field-keywords=Stewartia&Go.x=0&Go.y=0&Go=Go
http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/c/25/
Newt