Insulation, Radiant and Vapor Barriers - Vaulted Ceiling Baffles or?

Is this an acceptable way to vent for a vaulted ceiling? They said that since they are using R-30C insulation (8 1/4") for a 2x10 rafter, there will be plenty of airflow between the insulation and the roof. Instead of using a baffle at the vent, they added a 2x4 to stop the insulation about 12" from the vent.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk44/yoyomaca/insulation/IMG_4254.jpg

Thanks.

There are two issues to deal with. One is the venting. Typically a baffle is installed in the rafter cavity to be certain the air path is not blocked by the insulation. However, with 8" insulation in a 2x10 cavity you may be ok, may. The other issue is wind washing at the soffit. Air entering the soffit vents will filter through the fiberglass insulation, rendering the first several feet less effective.

I've seen the wood block approach use at the edge of the wall, but never 12" in. I have no idea what they are doing there. It is important to prevent the wind washing and extend the insulation out over the top of the walls, while maintaining the required air gap for ventillation.
From the set on the electrical box, it looks like they will be adding 1" rigid foam to the inside, that's good, just be sure it gets taped up tight. Also, you should make sure all of those wire holes are air sealed, the ones we are looking at as well as all others throught the house. Plumbing holes as well.

HH
BUd

From the set on the electrical box, it looks like they will be adding 1" rigid foam to the inside, that's good, just be sure it gets taped up tight.

Drywall is going up tomorrow, and I believe they are finished insulating. What is this rigid foam thing? Can I add that in later? Or is there something that should be wrapped on the outside of the blue box? I know all holes have been sealed though.

extend the insulation out over the top of the walls

I'm not sure how they can do this, and anyway drywall is going up tomorrow. Once it goes up, can I insert that thin bubble wrap insulation on top of the drywall section though the outside vent? Or maybe a couple of layers of it? The HVAC guy told me it has an R value of 4. Thanks.

It looks like your electrical box is set deeper than just sheetrock, maybe just the picture, but would have been nice. This is easy for me to say and tough for you, but I advised my son to do the same. STOP and do it right. He didn't and the heating bills and air leaks are very annoying for a new home. And now it's too late to change at any reasonable cost. One day and a few materials and it would make a world of difference, but I'm sure you have, and I hate to say this, a typical get the job done and get out of here builder. I apologies to those on the board who do it right, but there are far too many who just don't know or give a d###. just from the picture: 1. I assume that opening with the wires will be filled. 2. The kraft is installed wrong, should be stapled on the flats. 3. Even when installed correctly, I would never rely on the kraft as the vapor barrier. Add at least a 4 mil layer of plastic. 4. I can't really see, but I doubt the holes for those wires are air sealed. Fire rated foam. And as mentioned before, that goes for all penetrations throughout the house. 5. The 2x4? we see 12" back is not a proper wind baffle, I don’t really know what it is, unless it is there for all of the wiring. But there should be wind baffles in every cavity, maybe just can't see them. 6. All electrical boxes should be air sealed before the drywall. 7. Not pictured, but non-expanding foam around all doors and windows. 8. Wall to floor should be air sealed. If you paid an energy auditor to walk through right now and give you a list of what should be done BEFORE that drywall goes up, your dream home would have a much better chance of being what you wanted. Sorry for the rant, but I always get called in to fix what should have been done right in the first place. I hope I'm wrong about the rest of the house and everything is really fine, but if I'm not, "now" is the best time to get things fixed. Bud

Thanks for the info. Drywall went up today so that's that. I remeasured the distance between spaces of that air gap and it is only 6" so not so bad I suppose.

1. Holes have definitely been foamed in.

2. What does "stapled on the flats" mean?

3. Anything that's not code they will not do. Probably since I am in a warmer climate (California), compared to the cold winteres of New England, the contractors here are much less concerned with insulation.

4. Holes have been foamed in.

5. There are no wind baffles, but this 2x4 only goes back 6", so maybe not as bad. The reason why that was done was for aesthetics, so when you look into the vent from the outside you won't see the insulation.

6. How do you air seal an electrical box? Can't I just put a foam cover on the inside after?

7. All windows and doors have been foamed.

8. Wall-to-floor has been insulated using the R-value per code, R-13.

As the drywall was going up I did notice a few gaps they missed and I foamed or stuffed insulation in there as best I could. Afterwards, I will cut some bubble-wrap insulation and place on the drywall (next to those 2x4s) for added insulation.