Humidifiers and Dehumidifiers - Furnace Flow-Through Bypass Humidifier Question
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BAreEhD
12-07-08, 10:23 PM
Hi all... first post!
I wonder if you could help me out with a question regarding a humidifier unit that I had installed in my home today.
First of all, here's what I had installed:
Generalaire flow-through bypass humidifier model 1042 - link (http://www.generalaire.com/catalog/categories/652-Legacy_Humidifiers/items/8560-Model_1042_LH_Humidifier)
Generalaire humidistat model M3 - link (http://www.generalaire.com/catalog/categories/569-Accessories/items/13509-M3_Select_Control_Humidistat)
As it stands, the humidity in my house is quite low (Calgary). I've set the humidistat in the middle of the comfort zone, and can tell that the humidifier is engaged and the solenoid valve is open. The problem is that the solenoid valve is open, even when the furnace is not operating (ie. the desired temperature has been reached). So, I've got a constant drip of water coming from the copper pipe, through valve and into the unit and then down through the drain tube into the drain in my basement floor.
I should note that all this time, the desired humidity level has not yet been reached. It seems like the only way to stop water flowing into the humidifier is to turn down the humidistat.
Is this the way it's supposed to be? It would seem to me that the valve should close, thereby stopping the water flow while the furnace is not operating? Of course when the furnace cuts in, the valve should open and start water flowing again.
Thanks in advance for your help!!
Coles notes:
- Had humidifier installed onto furnace
- Solenoid valve is always open, even when the furnace is not operating
- Solenoid valve closes when desired humidity has been reached
- Even when it's too dry, shouldn't the valve close when the furnace is not operating, and open again when it cuts in?
Edit:
My instincts are telling me that the wiring is incorrect... here's a picture of the board in my furnace.
The two black wires going into C and R go to the humidistat (one of the wires powers the solenoid valve before going to the humidistat, the other goes directly to the humidistat).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v166/Barayolayosa/IMG_0076.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v166/Barayolayosa/IMG_0078.jpg
I wonder if you could help me out with a question regarding a humidifier unit that I had installed in my home today.
First of all, here's what I had installed:
Generalaire flow-through bypass humidifier model 1042 - link (http://www.generalaire.com/catalog/categories/652-Legacy_Humidifiers/items/8560-Model_1042_LH_Humidifier)
Generalaire humidistat model M3 - link (http://www.generalaire.com/catalog/categories/569-Accessories/items/13509-M3_Select_Control_Humidistat)
As it stands, the humidity in my house is quite low (Calgary). I've set the humidistat in the middle of the comfort zone, and can tell that the humidifier is engaged and the solenoid valve is open. The problem is that the solenoid valve is open, even when the furnace is not operating (ie. the desired temperature has been reached). So, I've got a constant drip of water coming from the copper pipe, through valve and into the unit and then down through the drain tube into the drain in my basement floor.
I should note that all this time, the desired humidity level has not yet been reached. It seems like the only way to stop water flowing into the humidifier is to turn down the humidistat.
Is this the way it's supposed to be? It would seem to me that the valve should close, thereby stopping the water flow while the furnace is not operating? Of course when the furnace cuts in, the valve should open and start water flowing again.
Thanks in advance for your help!!
Coles notes:
- Had humidifier installed onto furnace
- Solenoid valve is always open, even when the furnace is not operating
- Solenoid valve closes when desired humidity has been reached
- Even when it's too dry, shouldn't the valve close when the furnace is not operating, and open again when it cuts in?
Edit:
My instincts are telling me that the wiring is incorrect... here's a picture of the board in my furnace.
The two black wires going into C and R go to the humidistat (one of the wires powers the solenoid valve before going to the humidistat, the other goes directly to the humidistat).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v166/Barayolayosa/IMG_0076.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v166/Barayolayosa/IMG_0078.jpg
Jay11J
12-08-08, 10:28 PM
I really don't suggest wiring it up to the t-stat wire hooks up. And the way you have it wired it going to be "Hot" all times..
Is a sail switch being used or A50 relay?
If not, then what's the full model # and make of the furnace.
I didn't see any "HUM" or "EAC" on the board on your photo.
Is a sail switch being used or A50 relay?
If not, then what's the full model # and make of the furnace.
I didn't see any "HUM" or "EAC" on the board on your photo.
BAreEhD
12-09-08, 07:46 AM
Thanks for the response, Jay.
There's no EAC or HUM tabs on the board.
The technician came back tonight to fix it... had to move the "R" wire to "W". Seems to be working fine now.
There's no EAC or HUM tabs on the board.
The technician came back tonight to fix it... had to move the "R" wire to "W". Seems to be working fine now.
Jay11J
12-09-08, 08:06 AM
Ok, That way can be done.. Just not the first thing I would of done, but be advise, if the system is acting up, undo those wire and see if it stops acting up.
If it does, then you are going to have to add a transformer.
If it does, then you are going to have to add a transformer.
BAreEhD
12-09-08, 08:08 AM
10-4, thanks very much for the advice!