Humidifiers and Dehumidifiers - Replacing flow-by humidifier for better performance.. HELP!
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wantonsoup
12-03-08, 05:03 PM
We've got a ten-year-old house in Colorado (DRY!!!) with a General 1099 humidifier that isn't cutting it. We get up to maybe 28-30% at best which is terrible. It's installed on the return side with the round outlet running straight up to the supply trunk, which doesn't seem standard from the installation manuals I've been perusing online.
We considered going all-out with the Honeywell TrueSteam, but given we already have an evap/bypass model installed, it seems a lot of money to have a new electrical circuit installed.. certainly out of my DIY league.
So we're considering a high-end evap unit, like maybe the Aprilaire 700, or the Honeywell HE365. Seems like it really could be a pretty simple switch, just remove the old one, patch up the round bypass hole, install the new one, and voila!
I'd love some help and feedback on this. I'm ... sort of handy but these seem pretty easy to install.
We considered going all-out with the Honeywell TrueSteam, but given we already have an evap/bypass model installed, it seems a lot of money to have a new electrical circuit installed.. certainly out of my DIY league.
So we're considering a high-end evap unit, like maybe the Aprilaire 700, or the Honeywell HE365. Seems like it really could be a pretty simple switch, just remove the old one, patch up the round bypass hole, install the new one, and voila!
I'd love some help and feedback on this. I'm ... sort of handy but these seem pretty easy to install.
Jay11J
12-03-08, 09:21 PM
We get up to maybe 28-30% at best which is terrible.
How cold is it outside?
It's installed on the return side with the round outlet running straight up to the supply trunk, which doesn't seem standard from the installation manuals I've been perusing online.
Bypass unit can be mounted on either the return or supply side.. Return is most perferd area by pros. Less chance of water damage to the furnace.
.
So we're considering a high-end evap unit, like maybe the Aprilaire 700, or the Honeywell HE365. Seems like it really could be a pretty simple switch, just remove the old one, patch up the round bypass hole, install the new one, and voila!
The unit have now has a higher output than the Aprilaire, or Honeywell.
The General puts out 23 gallons of water a day, Both Aprilaire, and Honeywell puts out 18 gallons of water.
These powered unit has to be mounted on the supply ductwork.
Before you go jumping the gun, lets go over a few things since you have a large captcity unit now..
-Pad been replaced, and in the correct postion?
-Good water flow/valve open all the way?
-Bypass damper open?
-Avg. run time on the furnace? (short runs now and then, or long steady run)
-Have fresh air tied into the return, or air exchanger (HRV)
How cold is it outside?
It's installed on the return side with the round outlet running straight up to the supply trunk, which doesn't seem standard from the installation manuals I've been perusing online.
Bypass unit can be mounted on either the return or supply side.. Return is most perferd area by pros. Less chance of water damage to the furnace.
.
So we're considering a high-end evap unit, like maybe the Aprilaire 700, or the Honeywell HE365. Seems like it really could be a pretty simple switch, just remove the old one, patch up the round bypass hole, install the new one, and voila!
The unit have now has a higher output than the Aprilaire, or Honeywell.
The General puts out 23 gallons of water a day, Both Aprilaire, and Honeywell puts out 18 gallons of water.
These powered unit has to be mounted on the supply ductwork.
Before you go jumping the gun, lets go over a few things since you have a large captcity unit now..
-Pad been replaced, and in the correct postion?
-Good water flow/valve open all the way?
-Bypass damper open?
-Avg. run time on the furnace? (short runs now and then, or long steady run)
-Have fresh air tied into the return, or air exchanger (HRV)
wantonsoup
12-04-08, 08:59 AM
How cold is it outside?
30-50 degrees lately which is why this is so urgent to us!
The General puts out 23 gallons of water a day, Both Aprilaire, and Honeywell puts out 18 gallons of water.
Wow - I didn't know that (although the steady stream of water down the drain is a good indicator of that!)
-Pad been replaced, and in the correct postion?
Yes, I replace the pad at least once a year.
-Good water flow/valve open all the way?
-Bypass damper open?
Yes to both - lots of water flowing (and you can see it on the pad when you peek inside) and the damper full open.
-Avg. run time on the furnace? (short runs now and then, or long steady run)
This is possibly an issue, once we get to temp. the furnace is only on a short time during the day when we're home.[/QUOTE]
Here are my theories as to why my current setup isn't doing the job:
1) The 1099 uses a hard plastic water trough to distribute the water evenly through the pad. The problem is it doesn't do it. I have removed the unit, re-leveled it, cleaned it to remove any possible mineral deposits, etc., but the pad is not being evenly watered so lots of air goes through it un-humidified. Obviously changing units solves the problem 100%
2) The exit line runs straight up for like 3 feet to meet a horizontal supply line. Most of the diagrams I see indicate it should be running like 1 foot to the vertical supply stack just next to the return line the unit is mounted on. No idea why they did that.
30-50 degrees lately which is why this is so urgent to us!
The General puts out 23 gallons of water a day, Both Aprilaire, and Honeywell puts out 18 gallons of water.
Wow - I didn't know that (although the steady stream of water down the drain is a good indicator of that!)
-Pad been replaced, and in the correct postion?
Yes, I replace the pad at least once a year.
-Good water flow/valve open all the way?
-Bypass damper open?
Yes to both - lots of water flowing (and you can see it on the pad when you peek inside) and the damper full open.
-Avg. run time on the furnace? (short runs now and then, or long steady run)
This is possibly an issue, once we get to temp. the furnace is only on a short time during the day when we're home.[/QUOTE]
Here are my theories as to why my current setup isn't doing the job:
1) The 1099 uses a hard plastic water trough to distribute the water evenly through the pad. The problem is it doesn't do it. I have removed the unit, re-leveled it, cleaned it to remove any possible mineral deposits, etc., but the pad is not being evenly watered so lots of air goes through it un-humidified. Obviously changing units solves the problem 100%
2) The exit line runs straight up for like 3 feet to meet a horizontal supply line. Most of the diagrams I see indicate it should be running like 1 foot to the vertical supply stack just next to the return line the unit is mounted on. No idea why they did that.
Jay11J
12-04-08, 09:20 AM
This is possibly an issue, once we get to temp. the furnace is only on a short time during the day when we're home.
What do you have for t-stat?
1) The 1099 uses a hard plastic water trough to distribute the water evenly through the pad. The problem is it doesn't do it. I have removed the unit, re-leveled it, cleaned it to remove any possible mineral deposits, etc., but the pad is not being evenly watered so lots of air goes through it un-humidified. Obviously changing units solves the problem 100%
I've never been around this brand, but I do know some brands out there has a "coating" of sand or the like on the bottom to help spread the water out even. My dad thought it was not suppose to be there, and cleaned it out, and it din't work right.. End up getting a new tray, and problem solved.
All of them used the plastic water trough.
2) The exit line runs straight up for like 3 feet to meet a horizontal supply line. Most of the diagrams I see indicate it should be running like 1 foot to the vertical supply stack just next to the return line the unit is mounted on. No idea why they did that.
In a "perfect" word, yes, ideal to right right over to the side. but lot of them are not able to do it.. Like mine below.
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/1110/imgp0386ax0.jpg
What do you have for t-stat?
1) The 1099 uses a hard plastic water trough to distribute the water evenly through the pad. The problem is it doesn't do it. I have removed the unit, re-leveled it, cleaned it to remove any possible mineral deposits, etc., but the pad is not being evenly watered so lots of air goes through it un-humidified. Obviously changing units solves the problem 100%
I've never been around this brand, but I do know some brands out there has a "coating" of sand or the like on the bottom to help spread the water out even. My dad thought it was not suppose to be there, and cleaned it out, and it din't work right.. End up getting a new tray, and problem solved.
All of them used the plastic water trough.
2) The exit line runs straight up for like 3 feet to meet a horizontal supply line. Most of the diagrams I see indicate it should be running like 1 foot to the vertical supply stack just next to the return line the unit is mounted on. No idea why they did that.
In a "perfect" word, yes, ideal to right right over to the side. but lot of them are not able to do it.. Like mine below.
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/1110/imgp0386ax0.jpg