Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Toilet issues: Stainless steel supply hose for brass stop valve + slow flush
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pics20
11-23-08, 01:33 PM
Hello,
I have issues with two of my toilets:
1. I need to replace the supply hose for one as the plastic coupler/nut attaching the supply pipe to fill valve/tank broke and caused a big leak. The stop valve on the floor is made of brass (as is the original non-flexible supply pipe). If I use flexible stainless steel hose is there any risk for galvanic corrosion when having brass and stainless steel in line?
2. Another toilet flushes slowly. I need to keep the lever down for a long time to empty the tank (if I release the lever before the tank is empty the flap closes...the length of the lever chain is good). When the lever is held down the water level in the bowl rises about one inch (without "solid waste" in it) and slowly goes down to normal level after the tank is emptied or lever released. If we have "solid" waste in the bowl the bowl sometimes but not always empties faster at more normal speed and I can see stronger swirling motion then. Do you think the issue is caused by slow water flow from the tank to the bowl or could there be a partial clog in the drain? Blunging has not helped.
The toilets are about about 8 years old.
Thanks in advance!
I have issues with two of my toilets:
1. I need to replace the supply hose for one as the plastic coupler/nut attaching the supply pipe to fill valve/tank broke and caused a big leak. The stop valve on the floor is made of brass (as is the original non-flexible supply pipe). If I use flexible stainless steel hose is there any risk for galvanic corrosion when having brass and stainless steel in line?
2. Another toilet flushes slowly. I need to keep the lever down for a long time to empty the tank (if I release the lever before the tank is empty the flap closes...the length of the lever chain is good). When the lever is held down the water level in the bowl rises about one inch (without "solid waste" in it) and slowly goes down to normal level after the tank is emptied or lever released. If we have "solid" waste in the bowl the bowl sometimes but not always empties faster at more normal speed and I can see stronger swirling motion then. Do you think the issue is caused by slow water flow from the tank to the bowl or could there be a partial clog in the drain? Blunging has not helped.
The toilets are about about 8 years old.
Thanks in advance!
chandler
11-23-08, 02:58 PM
You will be fine with the stainless supply line.
In the offending toilet, is the tank water level about 1" below the overflow? You need sufficient water in the tank for a proper flush. Aside from that are any other drains slow, like the tub/shower or bathroom sink? If so, you may be experiencing a vent clog.
In the offending toilet, is the tank water level about 1" below the overflow? You need sufficient water in the tank for a proper flush. Aside from that are any other drains slow, like the tub/shower or bathroom sink? If so, you may be experiencing a vent clog.
pics20
11-23-08, 03:06 PM
You will be fine with the stainless supply line.
In the offending toilet, is the tank water level about 1" below the overflow? You need sufficient water in the tank for a proper flush. Aside from that are any other drains slow, like the tub/shower or bathroom sink? If so, you may be experiencing a vent clog.
Thanks chandler for your quick reply.
The water level in the tank is good, about 1" below the overflow pipe when full. No other drains are slow, including the sink in the bathroom with this slow toilet. BTW I run water thru that sink for several minutes and then flushed the slow toilet while water was running, did not seem to change anything.
In the offending toilet, is the tank water level about 1" below the overflow? You need sufficient water in the tank for a proper flush. Aside from that are any other drains slow, like the tub/shower or bathroom sink? If so, you may be experiencing a vent clog.
Thanks chandler for your quick reply.
The water level in the tank is good, about 1" below the overflow pipe when full. No other drains are slow, including the sink in the bathroom with this slow toilet. BTW I run water thru that sink for several minutes and then flushed the slow toilet while water was running, did not seem to change anything.
chandler
11-23-08, 03:23 PM
As inexpensive as they are, I would change the flapper and leave only a small amount of slack in the chain to see how that affects the flushing.
pics20
11-23-08, 03:36 PM
As inexpensive as they are, I would change the flapper and leave only a small amount of slack in the chain to see how that affects the flushing.
OK, I'll do that. I have not checked the small holes under the rim yet but will do at the same time when I replace the flapper. In theory could some of them get clogged in 8 years? If some of them are clogged can they cause a slow flush or is the water coming thru them minimal and just used to cause the swirling effect? I read somewhere I could use paper clip to clean them. If they are clogged should I see them as such using a mirror?
I'll report back my findings tomorrow. Tks again.
Ah, one additional detail. When I noticed the flushing was slow I first tried to adjust the level of the foam float in the chain and I think I dropped a small plastic disk from one end of the float and it went through the opened flapper, where it could have ended at and how to pick it up? Note, the flush was slow even before I dropped that disk...
OK, I'll do that. I have not checked the small holes under the rim yet but will do at the same time when I replace the flapper. In theory could some of them get clogged in 8 years? If some of them are clogged can they cause a slow flush or is the water coming thru them minimal and just used to cause the swirling effect? I read somewhere I could use paper clip to clean them. If they are clogged should I see them as such using a mirror?
I'll report back my findings tomorrow. Tks again.
Ah, one additional detail. When I noticed the flushing was slow I first tried to adjust the level of the foam float in the chain and I think I dropped a small plastic disk from one end of the float and it went through the opened flapper, where it could have ended at and how to pick it up? Note, the flush was slow even before I dropped that disk...
pics20
11-24-08, 09:51 AM
For the 1st toilet I got a flexible plastic supply hose with braided stainless steel skin, works fine.
For the 2nd toilet I got this flapper:
Korky Brand Toilet Tank Repair Products (http://korky.com/Flapper2004BP.html)
Before I install it I would like to know what is the reason for cutting the "collar" off for plastic flush valve and leaving it on for brass flush valve, as stated in the instructions in the link below. I have plastic flush valve. The overflow pipe will fit into the flapper "opening" between the arms while the "collar" will be up in a vertical position behind the overflow pipe causing little extra force to the flapper downward for a better seal so why not to leave the collar on?
http://korky.com/PDF/2004BP.pdf
Also...some questions from my post yesterday on this second slow flushing one:
I have not checked the small holes under the rim yet but will do at the same time when I replace the flapper. In theory could some of them get clogged in 8 years? If some of them are clogged can they cause a slow flush or is the water coming thru them minimal and just used to cause the swirling effect? I read somewhere I could use paper clip to clean them. If they are clogged should I see them as such using a mirror?
Ah, one additional detail. When I noticed the flushing was slow I first tried to adjust the level of the foam float in the chain and I think I dropped a small plastic disk from one end of the float and it went through the opened flapper, where it could have ended at and how to pick it up? Note, the flush was slow even before I dropped that disk...
For the 2nd toilet I got this flapper:
Korky Brand Toilet Tank Repair Products (http://korky.com/Flapper2004BP.html)
Before I install it I would like to know what is the reason for cutting the "collar" off for plastic flush valve and leaving it on for brass flush valve, as stated in the instructions in the link below. I have plastic flush valve. The overflow pipe will fit into the flapper "opening" between the arms while the "collar" will be up in a vertical position behind the overflow pipe causing little extra force to the flapper downward for a better seal so why not to leave the collar on?
http://korky.com/PDF/2004BP.pdf
Also...some questions from my post yesterday on this second slow flushing one:
I have not checked the small holes under the rim yet but will do at the same time when I replace the flapper. In theory could some of them get clogged in 8 years? If some of them are clogged can they cause a slow flush or is the water coming thru them minimal and just used to cause the swirling effect? I read somewhere I could use paper clip to clean them. If they are clogged should I see them as such using a mirror?
Ah, one additional detail. When I noticed the flushing was slow I first tried to adjust the level of the foam float in the chain and I think I dropped a small plastic disk from one end of the float and it went through the opened flapper, where it could have ended at and how to pick it up? Note, the flush was slow even before I dropped that disk...
chandler
11-24-08, 04:08 PM
Cutting the ring off the flapper will allow it to be attached to the "ears" on your plastic tube. Brass tubes don't have the ears. I would take a coat hanger and bend it with about a couple of inches pointed up where you can "pull" up on the coathanger and clear the holes. Yes, clearly the holes play an important part in the overall flushing of the toilet and should be cleaned regularly.
I have a round mirror about 8" across that I salvaged from some old lady's throwaways, probably, turn off the water to the toilet and flush it, eliminating most of the water from the bowl. Then I lay the mirror facing up so I can see the complete rim. Makes it easier to see what you are doing.
I have a round mirror about 8" across that I salvaged from some old lady's throwaways, probably, turn off the water to the toilet and flush it, eliminating most of the water from the bowl. Then I lay the mirror facing up so I can see the complete rim. Makes it easier to see what you are doing.
pics20
11-24-08, 04:49 PM
Cutting the ring off the flapper will allow it to be attached to the "ears" on your plastic tube. Brass tubes don't have the ears. I would take a coat hanger and bend it with about a couple of inches pointed up where you can "pull" up on the coathanger and clear the holes. Yes, clearly the holes play an important part in the overall flushing of the toilet and should be cleaned regularly.
I have a round mirror about 8" across that I salvaged from some old lady's throwaways, probably, turn off the water to the toilet and flush it, eliminating most of the water from the bowl. Then I lay the mirror facing up so I can see the complete rim. Makes it easier to see what you are doing.
Chandler -- I'll work on the rim openings with a coat hanger and a mirror, thanks! Let you know what happens. The flapper DOES work and attaches well to the plastic pipe ears without removing the "collar" so no problem here. In the image (in the PDF instruction link below) I can see that a "plastic flush valve" is in an angle and the brass one is horizontal....any effect here?
I have a round mirror about 8" across that I salvaged from some old lady's throwaways, probably, turn off the water to the toilet and flush it, eliminating most of the water from the bowl. Then I lay the mirror facing up so I can see the complete rim. Makes it easier to see what you are doing.
Chandler -- I'll work on the rim openings with a coat hanger and a mirror, thanks! Let you know what happens. The flapper DOES work and attaches well to the plastic pipe ears without removing the "collar" so no problem here. In the image (in the PDF instruction link below) I can see that a "plastic flush valve" is in an angle and the brass one is horizontal....any effect here?