Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - Replacing Lamp Switch
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havab
11-22-08, 12:59 PM
hi, I have lamp that had a dimmer switch that stopped working. So, I got a replacement. The replacement is a push-through switch.
The issue is that the new switch has the terminals for the wires on the side, but the original had them on the bottom.
So, the cardboard and metal sleeve that goes over it tightly fits over the switch, touching the screws on the terminals.
I'm assuming this is not ok, if anyone could validate (or invalidate) that, it would be much appreciated.
I replaced it and turned it on just to test the switch and it worked (its now unplugged until i know if its safe or not).
thanks in advance.
The issue is that the new switch has the terminals for the wires on the side, but the original had them on the bottom.
So, the cardboard and metal sleeve that goes over it tightly fits over the switch, touching the screws on the terminals.
I'm assuming this is not ok, if anyone could validate (or invalidate) that, it would be much appreciated.
I replaced it and turned it on just to test the switch and it worked (its now unplugged until i know if its safe or not).
thanks in advance.
spdavid
11-22-08, 01:16 PM
Well if you have the metal casing insulated from the connections then you are sort of ok.If they ever wear through the cardboard you will get a connection and maybe get shocked or a burned switch etc.The real way to make sure you're good is to replace the entire switch casing and all not just the inner part.
Over the years different manufacturers put the contacts at different points on the socket.Some side some bottom etc.Generally the outer casing was manufacturered to fit that particular set up and a different design may not fit well enough to be safe.
Over the years different manufacturers put the contacts at different points on the socket.Some side some bottom etc.Generally the outer casing was manufacturered to fit that particular set up and a different design may not fit well enough to be safe.