Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Flush valve leak -- fix kit didn't help

Hi, I recently used a hacksaw to correct the height of the toilet overflow pipe. Immediately after, the toilet started cycling on and off every 1/2 hour or so. I feared the worst since I could not see how sawing the overflow pipe could damage the flapper seal, but I decided to be optimistic and try the cheapest and easiest approach first. I replaced the flapper. No good. Then I installed a Fluidmaster 555C Flusher Fixer (flush valve drain seat repair kit.) Still no good. Water is leaking from the tank and hopefully is going into the bowl. I see no water on my floor. However I don't know where the leak is! The bolts in the bottom of the talk are corroded -- could sawing have broken the seal where these bolts are? Wouldn't that water go on the floor though? Could I have cracked the overflow pipe (I don't see a crack) or broken some other seal allowing water to drain from the tank to the bowl? Am I at the point of needing to call a professional? Thanks!

If the overflow pipe is metal I'd bet you did crack it.they become brittle with age and will break off.

Also make sure the tubing that goes down into the overflow is not too far down into the overflow tube.

Other than that I'd say you need to replace the flush valve.

Since you have other issues I'd replace and/or rebuild the whole thing.Fluidmaster has a kit in a box with almost everything you'll need.All you'd need to get beyond it are toilet tank bolts and the tank to bowl gasket.Note that there are a variety.There are kits with bolts and gasket.These may or may not work for yours.Take the old gasket with you to compare and match.

Check the supply valve underneath and verify it will shut off completely and open and close properly without leaking.Also it's a very good idea to replace the supply line with a stainless braided type.

This is all assuming the ballcock in the toilet is original and/or an older type.If it's brass or has been in the toilet a long time and since you have to rework then replace it and the Fluidmaster kit has it all.Comes in a green box sells for around 20 dollars.

Hi, I recently used a hacksaw to correct the height of the toilet overflow pipe.

Advice already given was good. I'm simply curious why the overflow pipe needed cutting.

Overflow pipe was white plastic, not metal. My house is just 15 years old so this is not real old stuff. The overflow pipe was so tall that the tank would overflow before the water level reached the top of the overflow pipe. Pretty useless that way! One day when the float cup got stuck (it remained submerged as the tank kept filling) water dripped from the back of my tank onto the floor. The overflow pipe should have prevented spill over when fill valve failed, but I watched water dripping onto my floor. That's a clue...

Thank you for your help. I think the tubing that goes down the overflow pipe is WAY down in there. I will correct that immediately. But why is that a problem??? If that's my only problem, I sure wish I'd emailed you sooner... before the flapper replacement and repair kit. I'll pull the tubing out a lot and see if that helps. Thanks again!

SPDAVID, You are the man! Your instruction to keep the refill tube near the top of the overflow pipe was a shock to me! So, I searched the Intenet now I know what my problem has been since cutting the overflow pipe -- I pushed the refill tube down too deep -- I had no idea I was siphoning water from my tank into my bowl and went crazy trying to fix a leak that didn't even exist. You are the man!
Your suggestion lead me to learn this from the Internet... look here at the boxed warning: How a Toilet Works (http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/ToiletFlush.htm)

- I pushed the refill tube down too deep -- I had no idea I was siphoning water from my tank into my bowl

I bet 90+% of people do not know about this, and this includes handy guys that work on toilets.