Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Closet flange question
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Jwhitman
11-13-08, 06:47 AM
Recently, I removed a toilet that had a broken off bolt. The changing of the bolt and replacement of the wax ring was simple enough. The trouble is the toilet doesn't sit level. It's a good 1/4 inch higher on one side then the other.(Seemed like it was a bit off to begin with, just not as bad as it is now) When checking the floor infront, behind and on the sides it appears to be level. This leads me to believe the closet flang must be the problem. measuring the distance between the toilet and the floor it seems about the same on both sides. I need the toilet and it's currently usable so I would like to make a plan and attempt a repair. Can I shim the toilet up 1/4" on one side and still get a good seal on the closet flange? or is the only solution to repair the unlevel clost flange. Do they make an offset plate of some kind that I can put on the flange?
The closet flang and pipe are cast iron and very involved to replace. are there any options?
Thanks,
J:confused:
The closet flang and pipe are cast iron and very involved to replace. are there any options?
Thanks,
J:confused:
ecman51`
11-13-08, 06:37 PM
So the toilet does not sit down on the floor on one side?
If so, that means that part of the toilet must be pressing the wax right out, on that (high)side.
I can't see why shimming would not work.
However, you may have to start over with new wax, with some shimming already in place before you allow the toilet to bottom out on the flange.
And you might want to even shim up the high side just a hair, to keep it from driving out all the wax. Then shim the current low side even more yet.
Remember one of the ideas of the wax gasket is not just in keeping water from leaking/backsplashing out on the floor, but to keep sewer pipe gases from entering the house, and can do so at the toilet bowl/floor if wax gasket is compromised.
You can always dress up the gap later with caulk. I have done this where I even use a putty knife vertically around the toilet so that when the caulk dries, it looks close to how it would look if the toilet is sitting right on the floor, with no caulk!
If so, that means that part of the toilet must be pressing the wax right out, on that (high)side.
I can't see why shimming would not work.
However, you may have to start over with new wax, with some shimming already in place before you allow the toilet to bottom out on the flange.
And you might want to even shim up the high side just a hair, to keep it from driving out all the wax. Then shim the current low side even more yet.
Remember one of the ideas of the wax gasket is not just in keeping water from leaking/backsplashing out on the floor, but to keep sewer pipe gases from entering the house, and can do so at the toilet bowl/floor if wax gasket is compromised.
You can always dress up the gap later with caulk. I have done this where I even use a putty knife vertically around the toilet so that when the caulk dries, it looks close to how it would look if the toilet is sitting right on the floor, with no caulk!
Jwhitman
11-14-08, 06:54 AM
Basicly the toilet doesn't sit on the floor on either side. If I shim between the floor and the toilet on the high side won't the union between the closet gasket and the toilet be compromised, Do to the fact that the toilet and the closet flange are not flat with respect to each other.
Thanks,
J:confused:
Thanks,
J:confused:
ecman51`
11-14-08, 07:33 AM
Well. If your flange is crooked in relation to the floor, either you have to do about what I say, or fix the flange. Sure, the wax gasket (union, you cal it?) would get wedge shaped, the way I explain it, technically. But that should not hurt anything, as long as it seals. Wax gaskets are pretty thick. Can't see what difference it would make if you had 1/8 inch wax on one side and 3/8 wax on the other, for example.
However, if you shim it at THIS stage of the game (after the fact you already have it set and it is crooked) - yes, the union will be compromised. As mentioned in previous post, you have to start over. You'd have to make sure toilet does not bottom out until the toilwet is coming down on the wax LEVEL. That is why I suggested having shims lay under where the toilet edges will be BEFORE lowering the toilet all the way. If the toilet is too high somewhere, you can always back off on the wedges, so the toilet lowers the way you want. But once the toilet is all the way down, and say it winds up crooked, it is too late, and you wouldn't want to be jacking up the low side. You should be able to think this procedure through.
Tip: If the wax is cool, and not real warm and soft, you will have your best luck in letting the toilet set there when you first set it, so you can press the toilet down level, and then shim it. As I said, you should be able to think this through. If the wax is real warm, I have seen the weight of the toilet, with no added pressure on your part, let the toilet fall all the way to the floor. You do not want that to happen, because if it does that it will go crooked on you again. You want the toilet to lower straight down in a way that allows you to level it without having to pick up on it again.
However, if you shim it at THIS stage of the game (after the fact you already have it set and it is crooked) - yes, the union will be compromised. As mentioned in previous post, you have to start over. You'd have to make sure toilet does not bottom out until the toilwet is coming down on the wax LEVEL. That is why I suggested having shims lay under where the toilet edges will be BEFORE lowering the toilet all the way. If the toilet is too high somewhere, you can always back off on the wedges, so the toilet lowers the way you want. But once the toilet is all the way down, and say it winds up crooked, it is too late, and you wouldn't want to be jacking up the low side. You should be able to think this procedure through.
Tip: If the wax is cool, and not real warm and soft, you will have your best luck in letting the toilet set there when you first set it, so you can press the toilet down level, and then shim it. As I said, you should be able to think this through. If the wax is real warm, I have seen the weight of the toilet, with no added pressure on your part, let the toilet fall all the way to the floor. You do not want that to happen, because if it does that it will go crooked on you again. You want the toilet to lower straight down in a way that allows you to level it without having to pick up on it again.