Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - one for washer and one for dryer

I have a Kenmore washing machine model 110-22722100 and a Kenmore dryer model 110-62802100, both are 7 years old. The washing machine problem is that on final spin it is hit and miss if the tub will spin - water drains OK, the trigger mechanism for open/closed lid is working correctly, and sometimes if I manually spin the tub it will start spinning again (for a while anyway). Is this a slipping belt-type problem? Now for the dryer :wall: I have seen this addressed in a few posts but not my particular model. The drum baffles have fallen off (I have discovered they really are there for a reason - who knew) I thinks I have it figured out but just can't get top of dryer off to access the drum. Thank you for any help you can give - Sherry

First the washing machine, What is happening is that the gearcae is leaking oil and it is traveling up into the clutch, What we do is replace gearcase and clutch. You can get a seal for gearcase and clean clutch and should work ok. Much cheaper to do it that way. Give model # for both machines and can direct you to web site. Dryer I need model # to tell you how to get top off. Not hard then you know which dryer you have.

Hello, thank you for your response. The only other numbers I have found on the machines are serial numbers the dryer is 80 series and dwsr-ele-2406028-fm54 and the washing machine is 70 series with cl2947867. Thank you for any information you can send my way! Sherry

I missed your in your first post sry. here is a break down of parts for washer
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=11022722100&productCategoryId=0153200&brandId=0582&modelName=WASHER&diagramPageId=00005&componentDescription=BRAKE/CLUTCH/GEARCASE/MOTOR/PUMP&documentId=P0103382&backToLink=Return%20to%20Sub%20Components%20list
Parts 5, 9 and 13 are the parts I change in the field but the seal can be bought and save you many dollars, To clean clutch go to auto parts store and get a can of brake cleaner and spray clutch with that. Part 13 is drive coupler and they brake all the time as you have to tear down machine anyway any coupler is cheap I would replace it. Here is a link to get you started, Whole job should take hour to hour and hour and haft. Been doing it long time takes me about 30 minutes.
http://repair2000.com/coupling.html There is more let me know if you are going to fix it and explane rest. only a couple of more steps that are easy.

Now the dryer here is a tear dowm but you will only need to open top
UNPLUG DRYER FIRST

Take out lint screen and remove 2 screws there. Take a stiff putty knife and slide it between the top and front panel near the side and pry up on each side. Top will pop off clips holding down.(may have to use a little force) lift top up and lean back. look inside at front panel and find 2 screws holding on (near top on sides) pull up on front panel and will come off. Careful of wires to door unplug wires or just put it to the side. Hope this helps
here is a link to your machine
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110-62802100%2C

All Right Dryer Success :D. Now for the washing machine. I actually saved the schematic when I bought the machine-theory of "ya never know when you might need it". Is the seal you mention the "seal, gearcase cover" part number 3349985? Also, what symptoms are there when the drive coupler goes bad? Thank you so much for all of your help!

I don't have break down of gearcase so can't answer that one but it goes over shaft and in the top cover of gearcase. When coupler goes bad it will not spin or agitate, it will drain water and it may make a buzzing or grinding sound in spin cycle.