Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - How to Transition from 9/16" Wood to 5/16" tile

We just installed a new bamboo floor and ceramic tile. With the glue and tile set the difference in height is about 3/16". T-moulding is meant for same height flooring, and our installer was concerned it would not work well. But he doesn't have a solution.

I have considered a shim, but that is a lot of work, and would leave about a 1/4" trip point in main doorways. It seems like it would rock and be weak to just use T-moulding, but when I talk to Home Depot, who sells the thicker flooring, they say their installers just put it in anyway, and they have never had a complaint. Is this a real issue, or should I just put it in with the tilted T-molding?

We just installed a new bamboo floor and ceramic tile. The with glue / tile set the difference in height is about 3/16" difference. T-moulding is meant for same height flooring, and our installer was concerned it would not work well. But he doesn't have a solution.

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Make your own moulding out of the bamboo or use some oak. Rip it down till it is two depths, one depth for the tile, another depth for the wood. Rip ir till its about 1/2" thick, bevel the edges and pin nail it in place with long pins.

I have 4 doorways and a fireplace area, so there is about 25' of moulding I would need to manufacture. All I have is a table saw and a small belt sander, so I am not sure I am equipped to do the suggested solution. Would the shim glued under one side of T-moulding work? Then sand it to a sloped edge.

By your answer I am implying that you think I need to not just put down the T-moulding. It is over concrete, so I will have to glue whatever I do into place.

Other ideas would be helpful.

I have 4 doorways and a fireplace area, so there is about 25' of moulding I would need to manufacture. All I have is a table saw and a small belt sander, so I am not sure I am equipped to do the suggested solution. Would the shim glued under one side of T-moulding work? Then sand it to a sloped edge.

By your answer I am implying that you think I need to not just put down the T-moulding. It is over concrete, so I will have to glue whatever I do into place.

Other ideas would be helpful.

You can pin nail into the bamboo and let the other side float. Or you can make a spline for the middle of the trim piece that reaches to the concrete and glue it in. All I used to make mine for several doorways and some stair tread edges was my table saw. I used a sanding disk mounted on it to finish any rough cut areas. I made them out of the same Ash my floor is made of. I didn't like the T moulding because the spline was always too long, too short, too wide or too narrow so I just left a 1/4" gap and bridged it with the moulding I made. Most of the transitions are Ash to ceramic tile. Been down 8 years now and nary a problem. Sure you can use a shim. Whatever works.

A t molding can work, but you have to plan for it. The edge of the taller floor must be straight and not jagged. Then the t molding barely sits over the higher floor, and agles down to the lower floor. I do it all the time, with glue down and nail down floors. Floating floors will need for you to think hard about how the transition molding will work.

See if you can get a "Hard Surface Reducer" for your particular brand, and color, of floor. These are made specifically for your situation.

If you can't find one for your particular brand, you may be able to find one from another manufacturer that is close enough in color.

I have an armstrong reducer with my dupont floor, and it works and looks great.