Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - GE 2spd washer wwa8900salww won't spin
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Marty
11-04-08, 10:44 AM
Hi
My washer quit spinning. I hear it trying to spin and it still pumps water out but it won't spin (bypassed safety switch still no spin). I opened the back hoping to see a broken belt but instead found lots of black rubber? shavings. I see the motor spinning but the pulley won't turn. The belt seems intact and relatively tight. The drum cannot be spun by hand.
Is it the rubber coupling? It spins with the motor though.
The machine seems to work fine until it hits 'spin.'
Any help keeping this a DIY project would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Marty
My washer quit spinning. I hear it trying to spin and it still pumps water out but it won't spin (bypassed safety switch still no spin). I opened the back hoping to see a broken belt but instead found lots of black rubber? shavings. I see the motor spinning but the pulley won't turn. The belt seems intact and relatively tight. The drum cannot be spun by hand.
Is it the rubber coupling? It spins with the motor though.
The machine seems to work fine until it hits 'spin.'
Any help keeping this a DIY project would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Marty
pugsl
11-04-08, 01:38 PM
Take off the belt and see if the motor turns in spin, They have a motor problem with these. If motor turns you probably will need a transmission.
Marty
11-05-08, 05:50 AM
Thanks. The motor *does* spin as it runs the pump still -- I can see it running with he back cover off.
The motor spins but the belt sits stationary.
But I can't turn the drum by hand more than an inch or two either way. And the belt seems tight enough to move the drum if there wasn't so much resistance.
So now the next question is, is it worth repairing? Or is this a path down the road to constant repairs?
-Marty
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The motor spins but the belt sits stationary.
But I can't turn the drum by hand more than an inch or two either way. And the belt seems tight enough to move the drum if there wasn't so much resistance.
So now the next question is, is it worth repairing? Or is this a path down the road to constant repairs?
-Marty
=-=-=
ecman51`
11-05-08, 07:40 AM
A V-belt drive belt relies on the SIDES of the belt to not be worn down, to work. Once the belt grinds down to powder/shavings and bottoms out on the slippery bottom of the pulley, they will not work. And if you are not smelling burning rubber smell anymore, that is further evidence that the belt is nto even TRYING to drive an immoveable object.
Sometimes the cheap plastic idler tenison pulley bearing goes out, and locks up, and this causes the beltt to wear down.
As far as the tub not turning by hand, I am not sure if, in lieu of a faulty belt, if your belt has even engaged the proper cycle.
If the belt is worn down, where the top of the belt is no longer up by the top of the pulleys, and sits way down in the pulleys, you know then the belt is bottomed out. My bet is yours is.
Idler pulley and belt do not cost that much. You could chance it at your discretion, unless say someone like Pugsl is absolutely certain that you should be able to turn that tub no matter what.
I recently had to change out a belt under similar circumstances. I had notes in that washer that I have had to change out that belt once a year since 2005, and a tensioner pulley also. College kids in past were washing blankets and rugs, along with lots of heavy jeans, and really putting strain on the belt.
I found that by first removing the entire motor, on that machine, that it made quick work of changing that belt. I think by removing the motor/pump, helped me get at the pump screws on the bottom real quick and accessible. You do what you have to do, to make the job go fastest.
Sometimes the cheap plastic idler tenison pulley bearing goes out, and locks up, and this causes the beltt to wear down.
As far as the tub not turning by hand, I am not sure if, in lieu of a faulty belt, if your belt has even engaged the proper cycle.
If the belt is worn down, where the top of the belt is no longer up by the top of the pulleys, and sits way down in the pulleys, you know then the belt is bottomed out. My bet is yours is.
Idler pulley and belt do not cost that much. You could chance it at your discretion, unless say someone like Pugsl is absolutely certain that you should be able to turn that tub no matter what.
I recently had to change out a belt under similar circumstances. I had notes in that washer that I have had to change out that belt once a year since 2005, and a tensioner pulley also. College kids in past were washing blankets and rugs, along with lots of heavy jeans, and really putting strain on the belt.
I found that by first removing the entire motor, on that machine, that it made quick work of changing that belt. I think by removing the motor/pump, helped me get at the pump screws on the bottom real quick and accessible. You do what you have to do, to make the job go fastest.
Marty
11-05-08, 10:52 AM
Thanks Ecman51 -- good stuff.
So *is* it supposed to turn by hand Pugsl?
-MArty
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So *is* it supposed to turn by hand Pugsl?
-MArty
=-=-=
pugsl
11-05-08, 01:35 PM
Sry looked a t break down of your machine and not fimular with that machine. It looks like a Amana and they have trouble with the brake assy. Here is a picture of your machine
GE | Model #WWA8900SALWW | WASHER | 2 - SPEED | SearsPartsDirect.com from Sears (http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/retrieveSubComponentPartsAction.action?modelNumber=WWA8900SALWW&productCategoryId=0153000&brandId=0432&modelName=WASHER&diagramPageId=00006&componentDescription=2%20-%20SPEED&documentId=E2138139&backToLink=Return%20to%20Sub%20Components%20list)
GE | Model #WWA8900SALWW | WASHER | 2 - SPEED | SearsPartsDirect.com from Sears (http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/retrieveSubComponentPartsAction.action?modelNumber=WWA8900SALWW&productCategoryId=0153000&brandId=0432&modelName=WASHER&diagramPageId=00006&componentDescription=2%20-%20SPEED&documentId=E2138139&backToLink=Return%20to%20Sub%20Components%20list)
pamcroughn
12-18-08, 09:09 PM
i need help in changing a belt on a washer. from start to finish
pugsl
12-19-08, 04:41 AM
Need type, model# top or front loader to help, Tks
daddyjohn
12-19-08, 11:01 PM
Hi marty:
you have the old style GE which are bad about letting socks and such sneak over the top of the basket and jam in between the basket and tub. Raise the top. Grab the basket, pull it forward and check in between the tub and basket for something stuck in there. Check all around the perimeter. Usually when the transmission goes out the machine won't agitate or brake. If you clear a jam, see if it will now spin. if ok, clean the pulley grooves of ny debris and replace the belt which for the GE's is cheap [like $10]. Let us know how you make out.
you have the old style GE which are bad about letting socks and such sneak over the top of the basket and jam in between the basket and tub. Raise the top. Grab the basket, pull it forward and check in between the tub and basket for something stuck in there. Check all around the perimeter. Usually when the transmission goes out the machine won't agitate or brake. If you clear a jam, see if it will now spin. if ok, clean the pulley grooves of ny debris and replace the belt which for the GE's is cheap [like $10]. Let us know how you make out.
daddyjohn
12-21-08, 06:30 PM
My bad, I didn't answer your question. You should be able to turn the large pulley from the bottom by hand.