Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Toilet that continues to leak.

A new toilet, continues to leak at the base.

I previously found what I thought to be a solution here, and made sure the flange was flush with the current floor. This seemed to be fine, and worked for a couple weeks, but now it seems that the issue has resurfaced, and the toilet is again leaking from the base, into the floorboards, worse than before. The toilet is a Kohler, two piece, 1.6 gallon flush toilet, and I have a flange that one uses bolts in the top of the flange to cinch a rubber sleeve to the top of the waste water pipe.

Any suggestions?

Ray~

Is the toilet cracked and you don't know it? How old is the pipe below the flange? I'd remove it and start over.

Pulpo,

Thanks much for the response.

The prognosis is as I feared. The waste pipe is 4" cast iron, and had a lead & jute seal on the flange I took off at the beginning. It should be fairly simple to cut off the majority of the upright & replace it with ABS, just need find the time to do it. I will also replace the screw on flange with a more permanent alternative. Anything else to consider before proceeding?

Thanks again,
Ray~

Hello,

As you said this is a new toilet, You will want to check the tank to bowl gasket and bolts. Sometimes they will only leak when someone is sitting and putting pressure on the tank. The leak is sometimes not easy to see as it tends to run right down the back of the bowl onto the floor around the base, causing it to look like a flange leak.

If you have an open basement below the toilet, I also suggest removal of the old flange and replacing with new. The new flange should sit over the floor leaving the top of the flange about 1/4"-1/2" above the finished floor.
If you do not have an open basement, make sure the new repair flange is tight, and if you can adjust it up a little, that will be good also. replace wax ring, and make sure the toilet is not pulling up the flange when tightening.

Plumbingods,

Thanks for the reply.

Just to confirm; I should have a 1/4- 1/2" gap between the floor and bottom of the flange? I had always assumed it was flush, on the floor, so that you could bolt it to the floor.

One other question: is it better to remove the whole upright piece, by unscrewing it from the threads into the main, or can I cut it off, and use a coupling between the iron & ABS? I am thinking it will be easier to go the latter route, but better to do the former; its just the issue of getting the piece unscrewed without the benefit of a chain cinch/wrench.

Thanks again!

Ray~

Well first off, I think you mis-read my previous post. It says you should have 1/4"-1/2" max. space from the top of the flange to the finished floor.

I do not understand your second question as I am unsure of any 3" threaded drainage piping. I would just cut the riser pipe going up to the flange and replace it from there.

BTW - did you check out the tank to bowl bolts/gaskets as I mentioned?

Plubingods,

Thanks again for your response!

Yes, I did misread your post; must be getting later than I thought.

From when I went under the house previously, I thought the iron, upright, sewer pipe, under the toilet, connected to the main iron drain line, on the ground, by way of a threaded connection (upright screwed into a female thread on the main). Am I remembering incorrectly? It is that connection that I was suggesting removing the upright from, and then screwing in the ABS replacement. If I am not doing that, the 4" ABS to iron coupling connects to the iron pipe how? Is it a rubber sleeve type item, where one end is the ABS, the other rubber with a hose clamp?

I did check the tank/bowl gasket & bolts, and have seen little that would make me think the issue is there. As to the bowl itself leaking- I have tried to observe if it changes after using, but have not some up with anything, but this is not conclusive.

Thanks!
Ray~