Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - important DECK question--cost
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : important DECK question--cost
taser
10-29-08, 05:16 PM
the deck will be 8 feet off the ground and will be made of wood; 15 x 14 . 210 square feet. i am getting prices of 20 bucks a square foot for labor ( 4200 ) . materials estimated to be about 2500,a bit high but giving ourselves some room. so thats 6700 for the deck with labor and materials.
they will also cut a whole in the wall and install a 72 x 80 sliding glass door which is no problem. we have to move some electrical and baseboard but not a big deal. they are charging 1500 in labor for that and 800 for a good door.
how does the PRICE of the deck sound? they are nice people and do very good work,they did my neighbors.
we are in the northeast.
they will also cut a whole in the wall and install a 72 x 80 sliding glass door which is no problem. we have to move some electrical and baseboard but not a big deal. they are charging 1500 in labor for that and 800 for a good door.
how does the PRICE of the deck sound? they are nice people and do very good work,they did my neighbors.
we are in the northeast.
craftydad
10-31-08, 05:06 AM
You asked this same question on October 1st.... back then the answers were: for the door it sounds right on... for the deck - someone asked why don't you try doing it yourself?
Having just built a large deck (33x18 max) that was pretty complicated (only 1 right angle on it, its based on octagonal corners, wrap around stairs w/built in stair lights, 2 levels, and decking at opposite 45 deg slants), I think you should go for it. I'm not a pro, just a long time DYIer, and it does sound rather high to me (I'm in the NE too), but if you like their work, and have seen their quality, then why do you care in trying to save a couple hundred bucks? Chalk it up to "Getting the Deck you Want".
My deck cost me more than I thought it would in materials, but it's well worth it. With the angled decking and oct corners, I did very detailed planning, to the point of calculating out the length of every decking board before I started the project. People said I'd waste a lot of wood with the design... I didn't think they were right given my planning... but yeah, I have some 5/4 PT decking that's too short for the deck but would make a couple of good planters. :-) You know what? I don't care... I chalk it up to Getting the Deck I Wanted. It looks great and its well built...
Some things I would check with the contractor:
- they using tubes when going 4 ft down? tubes allow the frozen dirt to shift up/down with minimal impact to the concrete. Required where I live.
- they using post connectors so the posts don't sit in the concrete and water? Again, required where I live.
- they using bolts on the ledger through the house with lock washers and nuts or lag screws or a combo? Bolts are best... They using 5/8 or smaller? How far apart?
- they using 2x8 PT for the blocking (they blocking?) ?
- they using angle brackets to attach the rim to the joists or just nailing/screwing into the end grain?
- they using high quality 5/4 PT decking (no or very few knots) or regular grade?
- they nailing or screwing down the decking? ( I used #8x2.5inch Scorpion screws)
- they using carriage bolts or lag screws to attach the railing posts to the joists? They using 2, offset from the center a bit so as to not cause splits?
There's a lot more Qs/decisions that come up when figuring out what level of quality the deck will have in the end... these are just a few I wrestled with.... I'd talk to them, see how they do things... if you like their work and the design, sign them up and get it done. :-)
Having just built a large deck (33x18 max) that was pretty complicated (only 1 right angle on it, its based on octagonal corners, wrap around stairs w/built in stair lights, 2 levels, and decking at opposite 45 deg slants), I think you should go for it. I'm not a pro, just a long time DYIer, and it does sound rather high to me (I'm in the NE too), but if you like their work, and have seen their quality, then why do you care in trying to save a couple hundred bucks? Chalk it up to "Getting the Deck you Want".
My deck cost me more than I thought it would in materials, but it's well worth it. With the angled decking and oct corners, I did very detailed planning, to the point of calculating out the length of every decking board before I started the project. People said I'd waste a lot of wood with the design... I didn't think they were right given my planning... but yeah, I have some 5/4 PT decking that's too short for the deck but would make a couple of good planters. :-) You know what? I don't care... I chalk it up to Getting the Deck I Wanted. It looks great and its well built...
Some things I would check with the contractor:
- they using tubes when going 4 ft down? tubes allow the frozen dirt to shift up/down with minimal impact to the concrete. Required where I live.
- they using post connectors so the posts don't sit in the concrete and water? Again, required where I live.
- they using bolts on the ledger through the house with lock washers and nuts or lag screws or a combo? Bolts are best... They using 5/8 or smaller? How far apart?
- they using 2x8 PT for the blocking (they blocking?) ?
- they using angle brackets to attach the rim to the joists or just nailing/screwing into the end grain?
- they using high quality 5/4 PT decking (no or very few knots) or regular grade?
- they nailing or screwing down the decking? ( I used #8x2.5inch Scorpion screws)
- they using carriage bolts or lag screws to attach the railing posts to the joists? They using 2, offset from the center a bit so as to not cause splits?
There's a lot more Qs/decisions that come up when figuring out what level of quality the deck will have in the end... these are just a few I wrestled with.... I'd talk to them, see how they do things... if you like their work and the design, sign them up and get it done. :-)
taser
10-31-08, 06:02 AM
if you don't mind be asking;;was your deck all wood? how much total for material?
thank you
thank you
craftydad
11-09-08, 12:04 PM
Yep, the deck is all pressure treated. We were going to go with composit, but my wife didn't like any of the colors... we'll be putting on solid stains that matche the house - sorta clay colored for the majority, with cream colored trim. We bought the better grade PT decking - it barely has any knots in it. And I put the boards next to eachother - no spacing since that will come when it shrinks. I actually through it'd cost $3- $4K as a rough guestimate (didn't really price everything out at the start). It came in around $4500 for all materials except the built in stair lights... I think the came in around $420 or so, bought on the web with lowest price. Labor was the three of us - Me, Myself, and I. :-)
I haven't posted pics yet - sorry, the weather has sucked recently and I had to undo 2 loads of dirt I dropped off around the stairs - I didn't realize how many stones/rocks there were in it, so I ended up digging it all back up and screening it into the wheelbarrow. I can take some pics maybe early this week. Will post here when I do.
I haven't posted pics yet - sorry, the weather has sucked recently and I had to undo 2 loads of dirt I dropped off around the stairs - I didn't realize how many stones/rocks there were in it, so I ended up digging it all back up and screening it into the wheelbarrow. I can take some pics maybe early this week. Will post here when I do.
lefty
11-11-08, 11:26 AM
$6700 labor and mat'l for 210 sq. ft. of deck -- probably OK.
But what about the RAILING?? At 8' above grade, you have no choice -- it HAS to be there.
Make sure you are sitting down when you start figuring the price of that! 3 sides is about 45'. Figure $60 to $100/ft., depending on what you use, if it's contractor installed.
But what about the RAILING?? At 8' above grade, you have no choice -- it HAS to be there.
Make sure you are sitting down when you start figuring the price of that! 3 sides is about 45'. Figure $60 to $100/ft., depending on what you use, if it's contractor installed.