Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - Kenmore Dishwasher Model# 665.11073342
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luca1
10-28-08, 06:27 PM
Dishwasher was working great, one day went to start a wash and nothing happened? Lights come on to show cycle selected but when you press START nothing happens? I tried unplugging it for a while and then trying again but no luck.
Any suggestions????:confused:
Any suggestions????:confused:
ecman51`
10-28-08, 08:24 PM
Do you have a manual? Due to frustration people have been having with some of the more complex newer machines, the maker is often kind enough to print up a troubleshooting page or two that tells you the steps to follow if certain things do not happen and certain things do, to spare you from having to call the tech in some cases. And the manuals are good for the tech, also.
luca1
10-29-08, 08:49 AM
Do you have a manual? Due to frustration people have been having with some of the more complex newer machines, the maker is often kind enough to print up a troubleshooting page or two that tells you the steps to follow if certain things do not happen and certain things do, to spare you from having to call the tech in some cases. And the manuals are good for the tech, also.
Manual really doesn't say anything only that water supply may be off. Nobody touched the water supply so how can that be?
I don't understand....
Manual really doesn't say anything only that water supply may be off. Nobody touched the water supply so how can that be?
I don't understand....
ecman51`
10-29-08, 10:11 AM
Okay. Here is a lesson for you: If you ever see a troubleshooting guide for any appliance, including furnaces, say the problem is "X", the problem may include the workings of "X", without it actually BEING "X" specifically. Here is a precise example: With furnace blinking a code - pressure switch -, the pressure switch itself may be good! But the pressure switch circuit may be out.
So, if your manual says 'water supply may be off'. The machine may be smart enough to know that water is not getting in. That may be due to a bad valve under the sink (say the washer dislodged and blocks the valve now), or a clogged up screen for the fill valve under the left front of the dishwasher, or the solenoid of the fill valve may have stopped working, or the circuit to the solenoid is dead, or the float switch is stuck in such a way it has stopped the water. See what I mean?
So for now, all you simply have to know if water is getting into your machine or not. Is it? If it is, we can forget the erroneus information. If it isn't, then we can try to help you figure out why it isn't.
If only everyone knew how the basic theory, and the parts to accomplish what it does, is quite simple. Yesterday I had removed a dishwasher, got the pump and motor out, had to retrofit a new redesigned one with new parts I had to select which to use, and got it all hooked back up -plumbing and electrical and remounted in the cabinet and even ran a test load for a long time through two pump in and out cycles, and carry tools in and out and this only took me less than an hour and 15 minutes. And whether you have something like this turned upside down and apart, or a dryer, like I did this morming, with the belt and drum and front drum support panel out and top up and front panel off, and retrofitting new designed element with new stats jumpered with new hardware -these appliances are basically big boxes that are for the most part hollow with fairly elementary theory of operation behind them and aren't all that much mystique once you take the plunge into these things. A little bit of nerve ansd curiousity can go a long way in understanding these things.
So, if your manual says 'water supply may be off'. The machine may be smart enough to know that water is not getting in. That may be due to a bad valve under the sink (say the washer dislodged and blocks the valve now), or a clogged up screen for the fill valve under the left front of the dishwasher, or the solenoid of the fill valve may have stopped working, or the circuit to the solenoid is dead, or the float switch is stuck in such a way it has stopped the water. See what I mean?
So for now, all you simply have to know if water is getting into your machine or not. Is it? If it is, we can forget the erroneus information. If it isn't, then we can try to help you figure out why it isn't.
If only everyone knew how the basic theory, and the parts to accomplish what it does, is quite simple. Yesterday I had removed a dishwasher, got the pump and motor out, had to retrofit a new redesigned one with new parts I had to select which to use, and got it all hooked back up -plumbing and electrical and remounted in the cabinet and even ran a test load for a long time through two pump in and out cycles, and carry tools in and out and this only took me less than an hour and 15 minutes. And whether you have something like this turned upside down and apart, or a dryer, like I did this morming, with the belt and drum and front drum support panel out and top up and front panel off, and retrofitting new designed element with new stats jumpered with new hardware -these appliances are basically big boxes that are for the most part hollow with fairly elementary theory of operation behind them and aren't all that much mystique once you take the plunge into these things. A little bit of nerve ansd curiousity can go a long way in understanding these things.
luca1
10-30-08, 11:02 AM
Okay. Here is a lesson for you: If you ever see a troubleshooting guide for any appliance, including furnaces, say the problem is "X", the problem may include the workings of "X", without it actually BEING "X" specifically. Here is a precise example: With furnace blinking a code - pressure switch -, the pressure switch itself may be good! But the pressure switch circuit may be out.
So, if your manual says 'water supply may be off'. The machine may be smart enough to know that water is not getting in. That may be due to a bad valve under the sink (say the washer dislodged and blocks the valve now), or a clogged up screen for the fill valve under the left front of the dishwasher, or the solenoid of the fill valve may have stopped working, or the circuit to the solenoid is dead, or the float switch is stuck in such a way it has stopped the water. See what I mean?
So for now, all you simply have to know if water is getting into your machine or not. Is it? If it is, we can forget the erroneus information. If it isn't, then we can try to help you figure out why it isn't.
If only everyone knew how the basic theory, and the parts to accomplish what it does, is quite simple. Yesterday I had removed a dishwasher, got the pump and motor out, had to retrofit a new redesigned one with new parts I had to select which to use, and got it all hooked back up -plumbing and electrical and remounted in the cabinet and even ran a test load for a long time through two pump in and out cycles, and carry tools in and out and this only took me less than an hour and 15 minutes. And whether you have something like this turned upside down and apart, or a dryer, like I did this morming, with the belt and drum and front drum support panel out and top up and front panel off, and retrofitting new designed element with new stats jumpered with new hardware -these appliances are basically big boxes that are for the most part hollow with fairly elementary theory of operation behind them and aren't all that much mystique once you take the plunge into these things. A little bit of nerve ansd curiousity can go a long way in understanding these things.
Thanks for taking your time with my problem! I appreciate it! So I guess first off i have to see if there is water getting to the machine, you've given me a great starting point. Once I test if water supply is getting to machine then I can check fill valve and screen.
Thanks so much I will keep you posted !
So, if your manual says 'water supply may be off'. The machine may be smart enough to know that water is not getting in. That may be due to a bad valve under the sink (say the washer dislodged and blocks the valve now), or a clogged up screen for the fill valve under the left front of the dishwasher, or the solenoid of the fill valve may have stopped working, or the circuit to the solenoid is dead, or the float switch is stuck in such a way it has stopped the water. See what I mean?
So for now, all you simply have to know if water is getting into your machine or not. Is it? If it is, we can forget the erroneus information. If it isn't, then we can try to help you figure out why it isn't.
If only everyone knew how the basic theory, and the parts to accomplish what it does, is quite simple. Yesterday I had removed a dishwasher, got the pump and motor out, had to retrofit a new redesigned one with new parts I had to select which to use, and got it all hooked back up -plumbing and electrical and remounted in the cabinet and even ran a test load for a long time through two pump in and out cycles, and carry tools in and out and this only took me less than an hour and 15 minutes. And whether you have something like this turned upside down and apart, or a dryer, like I did this morming, with the belt and drum and front drum support panel out and top up and front panel off, and retrofitting new designed element with new stats jumpered with new hardware -these appliances are basically big boxes that are for the most part hollow with fairly elementary theory of operation behind them and aren't all that much mystique once you take the plunge into these things. A little bit of nerve ansd curiousity can go a long way in understanding these things.
Thanks for taking your time with my problem! I appreciate it! So I guess first off i have to see if there is water getting to the machine, you've given me a great starting point. Once I test if water supply is getting to machine then I can check fill valve and screen.
Thanks so much I will keep you posted !