Kitchen Gas Appliances - Gas dryer issue

Hey guys,
Finally have a new project to work on...

Couple of weeks (?) ago, I noticed my Kenmore Gas Dryer model 110.97586200, would start as soon as the door was closed. It wasn't a big deal, I figured the start button was bad as it "felt" a little different when I pushed it. Thought I would repair it when the weather got a little colder.

Well, yesterday I noticed that it started continuing through the end of a cycle and started the next one. I can hear the timer running constantly even with the door open. Unplugged it to keep timer from burning out or internal light from being on constantly.

Where should I be looking? I don't see any real electronic controls or relays unless they are internal to the timer? Some timer contacts welded together maybe?

I've repaired several older timers myself, but its been a while. I figure as long as the motor is working, there might be something I can do. New timer from Sears is about $85, haven't checked anywhere else.

Thx
Vic

Model # please Check door switch first, Light should go off when pushed. Sometimes the lever breaks on switch. a new one will come if you order switch.

Hey pugsl,
Thx for the response..
Uhh... model number is in my post.

And its not the light thats a problem...it goes out when the door is closed.

Please re-read..maybe I wasn't clear? It just keeps running even when it comes to the end of a cycle.

Thx
Vic

I think you have it--welded contacts in timer...............
Have fun.................... :)

Hello Vic and Welcome into the Gas Appliances topic.

I'll agree. If the machine on and running but does turns off when the door is opened and timer still in an operational setting, then not likely a stuck nor broken/damaged door switch.

If the machine resumes normal operation automatically when door is closed again and does this constantly and the timer is still in an operational setting, very likely a contact in the timer, which is constantly closed when it should be opened.

If the timer is in the off position and the machine continues to operate, may be a stuck motor contact switch. That's if the timer is in the off position only.

You may be able to test the timer. Disconnect the wires from timer to motor solenoid. If the dryer then resumes as it is currently doing when door is closed again, the motor may be the fault. Stuck contacts in the motor.

Hope the above helps. Post a reply and advise.

OK...Thx Guys
The door switch is stopping the drum/motor when the door is opened, and resumes as soon as door is closed.

The drum/motor does stop when the timer hits an off cycle. But the timer continues to run through the off cycle into the next run cycle. Then the drum/motor starts back up. I can hear the timer continue to run even in the off cycle.

I'll probably pull the cover today, and check the timer, after a load or 2 of laundry. Hopefully its just a pin or something worn. It's electromechanical so I should be able to figure it out...

Ok, after getting timer off and apart, I have no welded contacts, although one set did seem a bit "sticky" as I was testing them. Typical small amount of arc marks, but nothing serious. Is it ok to burnish them with a bit of 600 paper? I can't find my burnishing tools anymore.

Don't think that was my problem really. After looking more closely at the schematic, I think the stuck start switch (which did have welded contacts) may have been feeding power through the gas valve to the timer motor even in the off positions.

Here's the schematic.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2216/2974872251_6cff68ea9d_o.jpg

Anyway, cleaned the contacts (whats left of them) on the start switch, will order another Monday. Will be putting things back together later...race is on!

I would guess that the door switch, as an interlock switch, is one of the first things in the wiring. From there it goes to the timer and start switch, and onto the motor.

My guess is specifically the contacts in the timer that create on and off are always on.

With this dryer essentially always on (except when broken by the door switch), you do not even need to repush the start switch.

The reason the door switch stops it is because that comes first, in the wiring. But all the stuff after that essentially are staying energized because of that one set of welded contacts.

I have been able to take DRYER timers apart and unstuck the weld and file them (you will note that contact points in anything always are crowned, so that they are not perfectly flat), as they are not as complex as washer timers (at least ususally, would be my guess). The trick in reassembly, is making absolutely certain you get the rider of the points to be in the correct layer of multiple layer wheel cams.

Let us know how this goes, as you strike me as the kind of guy here who can pull this off.

Hmmm. Just looked at schematic. Yes, that could be I guess, since the start switch is the 2nd to LAST thing on the circuit, and the door switch is THE last thing on the circuit.

If your start switch is stuck, that thermostat heater is also stuck on, according to the drawing.

Guess we'll see when I put the timer back in..AFTER THE RACE....lol. If you look at the schematic, I see a path where neutral can go through the stuck start switch to the left and down through the "hold" coil of the gas valve and the thermal fuse, keeping the timer motor energized thru "switch 0", since the other side of the motor is direct to the hot.

Switch 0 is always closed one way or the other, no matter what part of a cycle its in, according to the chart.

Oh btw, why do they use crimp on rings on the timer instead of e- or c-clips......man that was a pain, had to grind the tips on an old pair of mini-needlenose to get it off. Stoopid Engineers!


EDIT: Yeah, don't even really know what the thermostat heater does....but I just ran a load before taking it apart...so I guess it still works...

Oh, btw again...the start switch contacts were almost completely gone on one side. The cleanup on it is very temporary.

I fixed a timer for a couple of folks one time using the plastic hollow part out of click button on a ballpoint pen, I figure I won't let this beat me...lol.

Ok, timer in, start switch in, everything working fine. Bad design when a $.20 (their cost) switch like that can cause that kind of problem. My cost $10 plus shipping (which if I remember from Sears is ridiculas!!). I'll be checking with a few local and online places before I order. Heck, I can probably spend less at Radio Shack and get something that will work....lol.

Hi; Vic

Engineers are not really stupid. Most do know better if they are mechanically included to most degree. They use crimps instead of clips as a result of mass mechanized production.

An assembly machine can more assuredly, positively, accurately as well as quickly crimp a joint or fitting then it can install any type of clip.

As a result of high speed mass production machinery and costs and time involved, crimps are used in a mechanical mass production assembly processes.

No thought is given to disassembly and reassembly. Parts are considered replaceable, expendable and non repairable. Sad fact of the environment we all now live in. Don't fix it....:eek: :( Replace it....:eek: ......:thumbup:

The cost for parts may seem high and often are seemingly such. What us consumers fail to realize is the over-head costs involved with running a business.

And no business owner I know of, including myself, likes to eat soup with a fork. Lots of work & lots of time spent with very little end results. (Read profit). I know I don't like eating soup with a fork....:thumbdn:.....LOL!

Hey SA
I guess the story my Dad told me is still stuck in my brain. He was the Service Manager for all Frigidaire service centers (when they were owned by GM...ahhh the new cars and appliances every year, those were the days!) back in the '60's-early '70's.

He went to the new product rollout one year. Being an old time repair guy, he looked at more than bells and whistles. Found that it took 3 different types of drivers to take the back panel off of an appliance. He told the Corporate people and they all went..."Hmmm yer right, that makes no sense!".

IIRC when the new appliances got to our house that year, you could take the panel off using a 1/4" nutdriver.

Thats one that a good Engineer should have caught. And probably why bad designs irritate me so much. Did you happen to look at the thread about the 2009 Toyota Corolla oil filter...

It's like my wifes SUV, you have to remove the intake manifold to replace spark plugs!!!! I guarantee that won't be an issue on the next vehicle.

OK rant over...til the next time.

btw...dryer working fine, part on order.

The dryer is now running fine? - with the old start switch?