Carpentry and Woodworking - Making cabinet doors with plywood

I need to replace my kitchen cabinet doors and I thought I would try making them myself. I have made a few pieces of furniture so I am pretty good with power tools (table saw, router, etc). I have a 2 pc Convex Raised Panel and Classical Reversible R&S Router Bit Set. I was planning on using plywood for the panels to simplify things. The reversible bit makes a 1/4" grove for the panel. Will this grove be to wide for 1/4" poplar plywood? If so, is it possible to use some sort of smaller washer with the bit to make the grove smaller?
Thanks,
Judy

Plywood works fine for panels, and poplar is good if you are painting. For stained work, use the same type plywood as the hardwood frame. Or poplar is Ok for a contrasting look.

I made my kitchen cabinet doors by making a routered frame [with biscuits] and using a table saw to cut a rabbit on the back side to accomodate the 1/4" plywood.

I made the cabinet doors shown below out of plywood and they turned out decent. I don't know if I would want to use plywood in my home though.

Are you painting or staining? Do you have a plan for the plywood edges?

http://www.winchesterconstruction.ca/images/cab_up.jpg

My plan was to use poplar solid wood ripped to size and shaped with the router for the frame and use poplar for the panels. I also plan to paint the cabinets white.

"Will this grove be to wide for 1/4" poplar plywood?"

I'm not sure about the plywood you want to use. However, I just made some cabinet doors (for a workshop) with poplar rails and styles, and 1/4" poplar plywood for the panels. In my case the 1/4" plywood was not 1/4" thick. I ended up using the tablesaw to cut the grooves. I'm not sure if that method would be compatible with your bit set. You may want to measure thickness of the plywood before you choose your method.

Good luck,

In addition, I usually don't let the groove hit in the middle of the rails and stiles. Give it a little set back to allow for a shadow line. I cut the groove in the rails and stiles, then move the blade 1/8th inch and run one through to check for fit. Usually that does it, but some adjustment can be made.