Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - DSC Power 632 + Carbon Monoxide Detector - Help needed

Hello world...

I have a self installed DSC 632/PC1555MX system with wireless smoke & motion detectors. I want to install a wired CO2 detector (a GE 240 CO - to be precise). Does anyone have any idea of how to do this. I've pulled 4-wire cable from all points where I want the detectors to the panel - not knowing whether I'd need two or four wire. Now I'm stumped. Do I need to wire them in parallel, direct runs, with resistor, 2 or 4 wire, separate power or no direct 12v supply?

Hopefully someone out there can advise an over extended DIY'er!

Thanks in advance

CO detectors are usually 4 wire devices with normally open contacts, so you wire them just like a 4 wire smoke detector.

So direct run of 4-wire from each CO2 detector to a separate zones on the panel.

Only if you are trying to be specific about which individual detector is tripping. Otherwise you go from the panel to detector 1, from detector 1 to detector 2, etc.

OK. Since I was running out of time I called an electrician friend of mine to pull the wires. He ended up pulling wires from each detector to the atic, twisted each of them together and run one run down to the control box in the basement. This doesn't seem right to me as they're wired in parallel...rather than serial as I think you're describing.

Has it been done correctly or are my suspicions correct?

Thanks

James

The normally open contacts _are_ wired in parallel, but you are supposed to run your 4-conductor from the panel to detector 1, then from detector 1 to detector 2, then detector 2 to detector 3, etc.

So yes, he wired it wrong. Many electricians never get the grasp of supervised low voltage circuits.

So I need to re-wire it myself then!

Would this be correct.

NO detector 1 to NO detector 2 to NO detector 3
Common detector 1 to Common detector 2 to Common detector 3

Gnd as above
12V as above

?

Thanks

Yes, a somewhat overly complicated way of describing the connections, but yes.

Thanks. Do I need a resistor at the end?

James

PS - what would a simpler way of describing it be...just interested.

Many thanks for your help.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Yes, if it is set up as a fire-type zone it has to have a resistor.

If you are using the "24-hour gas zone" zone type, it might depending on whether your have the resistor requirement turned on.

In general, if you are using NO contacts, you need a resistor.

Simple description is to run a single 4 conductor loop and pass through all connections.