Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, Go-Carts, ATV's and Golf Carts - Brakes failing on Suspension Kart
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thunderbolt
09-18-08, 08:26 AM
I have a 9 horsepower tecumseh driven kart. its a two seater( rather heavy). the brakes are a disk brake caliper assembly. i replaced the pads, but cannot get a decent pedal when braking. the brake line is an enclosed cable connected between the brake pedal and the arm of the brake caliper. adjustment of the line only seems to move the exterior casement and doesnt actually shorten the cable to tighten the braking. any tips on slowing this Kenbar Gokart down. I've thought about looking for other means of braking such as an aftermarket assembly or even drastic change to a hydraulic set up from say a junk motorcycle. any advice appreciated
marbobj
09-18-08, 09:04 AM
What you've described in the cable adjustment is the way it should adjust. When you set the adjustment up are you getting more pedal to work with or is that not changing? If not, see if the cable sheath is simply floating on the wire cable. If it is floating it's become disconnected from one end, which gives you no adjustment.
If the cable is working to give you something that will adjust, pull off the pads you installed and lightly scuff the rotors with an 220 or 189 grit emery cloth. Make sure the pads aren't glazed over. If they are, use a sharp knife or file to deglaze those (don't use the emery cloth - you can set some of the grit in the pad = not advisable).
Then clean everything with a solvent (acetone) and reassemble. It will take a short time for the pads to seat in. That should give you the best of the braking of those components.
If you still don't have the braking you want look for a brake relining store around you. Have them put a softer lining on the mount. That will step up the brake for you, although it will cut the life of the pad. The later usually isn't an issue in that application.
If the cable is working to give you something that will adjust, pull off the pads you installed and lightly scuff the rotors with an 220 or 189 grit emery cloth. Make sure the pads aren't glazed over. If they are, use a sharp knife or file to deglaze those (don't use the emery cloth - you can set some of the grit in the pad = not advisable).
Then clean everything with a solvent (acetone) and reassemble. It will take a short time for the pads to seat in. That should give you the best of the braking of those components.
If you still don't have the braking you want look for a brake relining store around you. Have them put a softer lining on the mount. That will step up the brake for you, although it will cut the life of the pad. The later usually isn't an issue in that application.
thunderbolt
09-18-08, 12:45 PM
Thank you, I suppose the cable sheath is disconnected as it is as you stated Floating. I can adjust the Sheathing back and forth but the actual cable doesnt change.
marbobj
09-19-08, 06:37 AM
The cable adjustment thing, for as simple as it is, needs to have a little description to go with it. Let me try...
The adjustment isn't done on the length of the cable that slides inside the sheath (casing). That is a fixed length = no way to change it. The casing, though, is mounted on both ends - one end is fixed and the other end moves something. That end moves a component (like the lever on the caliper) farther away from the control lever (like your brake pedal) which is on the other end. When you do that, in your case, you should have more brake pedal to work with.
You can only move things things so far to compensate for wear = so much adjustment. When you've used up that adjustment you have to replace parts which allows you to start over again.
If you can grab your casing and move it freely up and down the wire cable it encloses, then the casing isn't attached to anything = no way to adjust the brake.
I hope this makes sense. If you look at your cart, it's easier to see how it works.
The adjustment isn't done on the length of the cable that slides inside the sheath (casing). That is a fixed length = no way to change it. The casing, though, is mounted on both ends - one end is fixed and the other end moves something. That end moves a component (like the lever on the caliper) farther away from the control lever (like your brake pedal) which is on the other end. When you do that, in your case, you should have more brake pedal to work with.
You can only move things things so far to compensate for wear = so much adjustment. When you've used up that adjustment you have to replace parts which allows you to start over again.
If you can grab your casing and move it freely up and down the wire cable it encloses, then the casing isn't attached to anything = no way to adjust the brake.
I hope this makes sense. If you look at your cart, it's easier to see how it works.
thunderbolt
09-19-08, 11:04 AM
Going to take a shot at this today, but this thing is adjustable on either end of the sheathing with one end of the cable connected to the brake caliper arm and the other to the brake pedal. I have adjusted one and both,,ends of the line to try to improve pedal. will take a closer look and why/how sheathing is adjustable without changing the tightness of the pedal or the tension on the caliper arm. I really appreciate your advice and will follow up with success for delay.