Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - Please Help: Finishing Project Gone Bad

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birddream
09-11-08, 10:19 PM
I have two unfinished parawood end tables that I am finishing. I needed then to be a very dark color. I first applied a coat of Master Finishes oil-based Spiced Walnut stain, but erroneously applied it thick like paint and allowed it to fully dry. Realizing I made an big error, I removed as much as I could with laquer thinner (the only product that seemed to penetrate the thick dry stain). I allowed it to dry for 2 days.

Then I applied a normal, light new coat of the same stain and it looked good. I then switched to a Minwax oil-based Ebony stain for a second thin coat and allowed it to dry overnight. Good so far.

Then I applied another thin coat of ebony, and achieved the perfect dark color I was hoping for. I let them sit for 4 days (2 days longer than the directions said). But they still seem to not be dry. The reason I say that is because when you touch them, it still has a tacky feel, and it leaves a scuff mark where you touch it that looks like I touched it with oily fingers, but didn't. I even tried touching it with a dry cloth and got the same kind of mark.

I tried test sealing a drawer with Minmax fast-drying oil-based polyurethane, but after drying overnight and beginning to sand with 600 grit paper, it seemed to be removing color so I stopped. Now I'm scared to apply any more polyurethane to the rest of my tables.

Is it normal for it to take this long for them to dry?

Did the step of using laquer thinner change the chemical properties of the subsequent stains, causing them to not dry?
What can I use now to seal these for good?
Do I just need to wait longer for drying?

Any advice would be appreciated, or insight as to what the problem is. Thanks!


marksr
09-12-08, 05:15 AM
Welcome to the forums!

The biggest problem is you applied too much stain.Wiping stains are formulated for 1 coat over raw wood. Any additional coloring is best achieved by using a tinted poly or varnish. If the stain doesn't dry sufficently to brush on the poly [the poly can rewet the stain] it is best to spray on the 1st coat of poly.

I doubt you removed any color with 600 grit. I rarely use anything any finer than 220 on wood. Have you tried wiping the sanding dust off of the drawer? Sanded poly will look a little white until the dust is removed.

birddream
09-12-08, 05:40 AM
It's gotta dry eventually, though, right? Is spray poly available? I realize I probably put too much stain on, but it's says everywhere, to achieve a darker color, apply multiple coats of stain.


marksr
09-12-08, 05:55 AM
"It's gotta dry eventually, though, right"

Probably, but spraying a coat of poly on it will help you get done with the project quicker. If you don't have access to spray equipment you can buy minwax poly in a spray can. You don't need to spray on a heavy coat, just enough to seal the stain so you can brush over it with more poly [after it dries] without danger of lifting the stain.

bclacquer
09-12-08, 05:58 AM
There is a good chance that even if you can get a finish coat to dry and look decent, it will shortly thereafter fall off. the finish will be adhering to the stain. the stain does not adhere to wood, so eventually everything will come off.

birddream
09-12-08, 07:51 AM
Why do you think the stains are not adhering to the wood? The coats are not so thick that you can't still see the grain of the wood through them. When you say "fall off" what does that mean? Would it start flaking or dripping? Sorry, I'm obviously very new to all of this, but thanks so much for your feedback.