Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - Craftsman Line Trimmer Flywheel removal

Model# 316.791880 Rev. P00

How is the flywheel removed?

TIA for any assistance.

Remove the spark plug and fill the cylinder with some starter rope to keep the engine from turning. There is a screw in the end of the clutch housing, I think it's a T20 torx or an allen, go to www3.sears.com and enter your model number for a complete IPL. Have a good one. Geo

George thanks for the suggestion, I appreciated it.

I had been to that website B4 I had the good fortune of discovering this terrific forum.

A better way to explain my dilemma is the spacer is stuck on the shaft preventing removal of the flywheel. Is that spacer supposed to slide right off without a special tool?

Also can anyone tell me how much of a gap there's supposed to be between the magnet and flywheel when I reassemble it.

1 last question, what does IPL mean?

Yes the spacer should slide off of the shaft. Try tapping on the side of the flywheel opposite of the magnets with a plastic hammer while applying slight upward pressure on the flywheel. Most of the time it will pop loose and bring the spacer with it.

Air gap of about .010" should be good.

IPL = illustrated parts list.

:thumbup:

Thanks 30YT that's what the problem was. The spacer was frozen onto the shaft and the key holding the Flywheel on disintegrated. A soaking in WD-40 freed it up.

The key does not show up on the IPL. I have no idea what it should look like. Is there anyplace I can get a replacement for it or do I have to purchase the whole Flywheel from Sears?

The flywheel key on many of the newer units, is cast into the flywheel and is not a separate part. The flywheel is the part you need to purchase.

753-05240 is the part number Sears shows for your trimmer and it runs around $30.00. The part number is an MTD number and should also be available through a local MTD dealer as well as Sears.

Best of Luck...:thumbup:

You're the best 30TY! Thanks for your help.
Regards,
Stan L.

Be very careful when installing the new flywheel to get it seated and torqued properly(I don't know what the torque should be) or it will shear the new flywheel key. Hmmmmm, wonder how I know that.... Have a good one. Geo

Jeez, I thought I was out of the woods with this.

2 more quick questions about it.

How do you torque it, I assume it's tightening the clutch that holds the shaft on.

Also the original problem was caused by the shaft rusting at the bottom of the spacer, locking it in place. I have no idea how it could have rusted as it's never been leftout in the rain and has always been stored in a shed; humidity possibly?

Should I lube or grease the shaft B4 replacing the spacer?

Thanks once again.

Yes, tighten the clutch good and tight to get the flywheel tight. I don't reccomend putting any grease or any other solvent on or near the shaft where the key fits, or you may wind up with a sheared key.

Thanks Cheese! This'll knock one more stone off of my pile of things to do.

I received the new flywheel. The new design now has a Woodruff key included.

I've reassembled most of it but have another question. The last part I have to put back is the Clutch Rotor Assembly (P/N 791-182369) which is held by a screw into the top of the shaft.

There is a large black line drawn onto the face of it in magic marker. I assume this is some sort of registration mark. How can I determine which way to bolt the rotor assembly on so that the magic marker line is in the correct position.

As always your advice is greatly appreciated!