Flooring Tile - Subflooring

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Chris S.
09-02-08, 07:10 PM
Howdy folks,
I need some advice...bad.:confused:

I'm gutting the bathroom. I've removed the tile flooring; it had cracked along a seam of the underlayment (or subfloor, don't know the correct term) it was adhered to.

What remains is the plywood with the a thin layer of old dried mastic from the tiles. It's not particleboard, but plywood. I think it's half inch.

The new floor will be either wood, composite, or linoleum. I'm DONE with ceramic tile in a post and beam house that expands and contracts like a blowfish in heat.

Questions:
- I need to rip this top plywood layer out, right?
- Is there any specific TYPE of plywood that I need to replace it with?
- What type and length screws should I use when laying the new plywood?
- Do I screw it down every 6"? 12"?
- What height should the flange for the toilet be relative to this new subfloor?
- Anything else I should look for.

And finally
- What's the best way to remove a fiberglass bath/shower? Sawzall?

Thanks very much in advance!!!


HotinOKC
09-02-08, 07:28 PM
Hopefully you do not only have 1/2" as your subfloor....if thats it, no wonder why your tile failed. A proper subfloor with proper setting materials can make a tile installation last decades.

I would want at least a 5/8" T&G subfloor even if I was installed a material other then tile.

With that said, and if you only got 1/2" subfloor, tear it up. If you have additional plywood under this 1/2" you could probably leave it depending on floor height restrictions.

When and if you replace it, replace it with the above thickness or thicker, and have it be AC or BC rated exterior grade plywood.

Screw length depends on subfloor thickess. If you have a 5/8 subfloor, 2-2.5" deck screws would work.

Not to confuse you anymore, but if you have two layers of plywood for a subfloor, the first layer gets screwed to the joists, and the top layer gets screwed to the bottom layer, but not the joists. Every 6-8 inches on seams, every 8-10 in the field.

The toilet flange should be sitting on top of your finished floor, but you can also get thicker wax rings and flange extenders if you don't want to move it.

Sawzall, safety glasses, dust mask will be needed for the tear out of the shower. Be careful when cutting, there will/might be electrical/plumbing behind the walls.

What's taking the place of this shower?

Chris S.
09-03-08, 06:27 AM
HotinOKC,
Thanks very much. The 1/2" is nailed down to another layer of 'subfloor'' beneath it. It's just butt jointed and the tile cracked right along the longest joint/seam. I will just tear it up and look into the 5/8" T&G AC. I'm just worried the toilet flange will end up being too low, but I guess I should be ok.

- Should the new layer of 5/8" be put down with adhesive as well as the screws or is that unnecessary?

- Exactly what kind of screws should be used? Galvanized?

Tub / Shower will be replaced with probably a clawfoot tub, but that's still tbd.

Thanks again.


HeresJohnny
09-03-08, 07:45 AM
Chris

Post and beam construction and ceramic tile has never been a good combination. Any other flooring material is a better choice than ceramic tile, but you already know that. My suggestion to you is to go to the other flooring sections and post this same thread. You will get better answers on what you need to do to prepare your subfloor and proper underlayment for wood or vinyl there.:)