Furniture, Wood and Cabinetry Finishing - First Time Refinisher Needs Help
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plfixer
09-01-08, 08:54 AM
I need help with the following two problems:
(1) My fireplace mantle is solid oak and has a pickeled white finish. I would like to stain it a mahogany color. What is the best way to do this?
(2) I have a solid birch dining table. The finish on half of the table top has worn off. The table is ten years old and was purchased in its natural color without any stain. Over the past 10 years, the color has turned golden (I believe from the direct sunlight) on the table as well as the six chairs.
QUESTION: Since I do not want to refinish everything (chairs, bottom half of table), what can I do to the table top to make it match the chairs and the bottom half of the table?
Thank you
(1) My fireplace mantle is solid oak and has a pickeled white finish. I would like to stain it a mahogany color. What is the best way to do this?
(2) I have a solid birch dining table. The finish on half of the table top has worn off. The table is ten years old and was purchased in its natural color without any stain. Over the past 10 years, the color has turned golden (I believe from the direct sunlight) on the table as well as the six chairs.
QUESTION: Since I do not want to refinish everything (chairs, bottom half of table), what can I do to the table top to make it match the chairs and the bottom half of the table?
Thank you
Just Bill
09-01-08, 04:57 PM
1. past the staining stage. Once the first coat of finish is applied, stain does nothing. There are colored polyurethanes that might work, but they are difficult to work with. They tend to pool and leave dark spots where you do want dark spots.
2. Most oil finishes will yellow over time. If one side has yellowed more than another, lightly sand the table top and refinish. It will usually blend in. I normally recommed you try a hidden spot first, but a hidden spot likely does not have the problem you describe. Since the table was likely in the sun more than the chairs, I would guess that the sun has bleached it.
2. Most oil finishes will yellow over time. If one side has yellowed more than another, lightly sand the table top and refinish. It will usually blend in. I normally recommed you try a hidden spot first, but a hidden spot likely does not have the problem you describe. Since the table was likely in the sun more than the chairs, I would guess that the sun has bleached it.
marksr
09-01-08, 04:58 PM
Welcome to the forums!
To restain the mantle you will need to first strip off the existing finish. Stain needs raw wood to be applied. After the stain is applied and dry you would apply 2-3 coats of poly.
Oil base poly/varnish tends to yellow/amber with age. You should be able to sand it smooth and apply 2-3 coats of poly just to the top. Sand lightly between coats for a nice slick finish.
To restain the mantle you will need to first strip off the existing finish. Stain needs raw wood to be applied. After the stain is applied and dry you would apply 2-3 coats of poly.
Oil base poly/varnish tends to yellow/amber with age. You should be able to sand it smooth and apply 2-3 coats of poly just to the top. Sand lightly between coats for a nice slick finish.
plfixer
09-01-08, 05:47 PM
Welcome to the forums!
To restain the mantle you will need to first strip off the existing finish. Stain needs raw wood to be applied. After the stain is applied and dry you would apply 2-3 coats of poly.
Oil base poly/varnish tends to yellow/amber with age. You should be able to sand it smooth and apply 2-3 coats of poly just to the top. Sand lightly between coats for a nice slick finish.
Thank you for your quick response.
With regards to the fireplace, what can I use to strip the wood?
With regards to the table, would I apply just plain poly or do I need to also apply a stain that has a golden tint? The wood that is now exposed on the damaged side of the table is so much lighter (and not golden) than the chairs and the other half of the table
To restain the mantle you will need to first strip off the existing finish. Stain needs raw wood to be applied. After the stain is applied and dry you would apply 2-3 coats of poly.
Oil base poly/varnish tends to yellow/amber with age. You should be able to sand it smooth and apply 2-3 coats of poly just to the top. Sand lightly between coats for a nice slick finish.
Thank you for your quick response.
With regards to the fireplace, what can I use to strip the wood?
With regards to the table, would I apply just plain poly or do I need to also apply a stain that has a golden tint? The wood that is now exposed on the damaged side of the table is so much lighter (and not golden) than the chairs and the other half of the table
marksr
09-02-08, 05:27 AM
I don't use a stripper very often and there are several to choose from. I'll ask for their recomendation at the paint store when I need to use a paint and varnish remover.
It is a little hard to say from here if you need to use a stain. Keep in mind that oil base poly/varnish will deepen the color of raw wood when it's applied and will yellow over time. After you are done sanding, wipe the top with a wet thinner rag - while the top is still wet with the thinner, it will give you an idea of how it will look with a fresh coat of oil base poly.
If you go with a waterbase poly, you will likely need a stain. Waterbase poly doesn't yellow and won't deepen the colors naturally present in the wood. I'm not fond ofwaterbase oly for this reason plus the fact that it doesn't dry as hard as it's oil base counterpart = won't wear as good.
It is a little hard to say from here if you need to use a stain. Keep in mind that oil base poly/varnish will deepen the color of raw wood when it's applied and will yellow over time. After you are done sanding, wipe the top with a wet thinner rag - while the top is still wet with the thinner, it will give you an idea of how it will look with a fresh coat of oil base poly.
If you go with a waterbase poly, you will likely need a stain. Waterbase poly doesn't yellow and won't deepen the colors naturally present in the wood. I'm not fond ofwaterbase oly for this reason plus the fact that it doesn't dry as hard as it's oil base counterpart = won't wear as good.
plfixer
09-02-08, 10:09 AM
I don't use a stripper very often and there are several to choose from. I'll ask for their recomendation at the paint store when I need to use a paint and varnish remover.
It is a little hard to say from here if you need to use a stain. Keep in mind that oil base poly/varnish will deepen the color of raw wood when it's applied and will yellow over time. After you are done sanding, wipe the top with a wet thinner rag - while the top is still wet with the thinner, it will give you an idea of how it will look with a fresh coat of oil base poly.
If you go with a waterbase poly, you will likely need a stain. Waterbase poly doesn't yellow and won't deepen the colors naturally present in the wood. I'm not fond ofwaterbase oly for this reason plus the fact that it doesn't dry as hard as it's oil base counterpart = won't wear as good.
Do I need to strip the table or just sand it? If sanding, what type of sandpaper do I need?
I would like to stain my fireplace a cherry or mahagony color. What type of poly should I use? Oil based or water based?
Once again thank you so much for your help.
It is a little hard to say from here if you need to use a stain. Keep in mind that oil base poly/varnish will deepen the color of raw wood when it's applied and will yellow over time. After you are done sanding, wipe the top with a wet thinner rag - while the top is still wet with the thinner, it will give you an idea of how it will look with a fresh coat of oil base poly.
If you go with a waterbase poly, you will likely need a stain. Waterbase poly doesn't yellow and won't deepen the colors naturally present in the wood. I'm not fond ofwaterbase oly for this reason plus the fact that it doesn't dry as hard as it's oil base counterpart = won't wear as good.
Do I need to strip the table or just sand it? If sanding, what type of sandpaper do I need?
I would like to stain my fireplace a cherry or mahagony color. What type of poly should I use? Oil based or water based?
Once again thank you so much for your help.
plfixer
09-02-08, 10:12 AM
I don't use a stripper very often and there are several to choose from. I'll ask for their recomendation at the paint store when I need to use a paint and varnish remover.
It is a little hard to say from here if you need to use a stain. Keep in mind that oil base poly/varnish will deepen the color of raw wood when it's applied and will yellow over time. After you are done sanding, wipe the top with a wet thinner rag - while the top is still wet with the thinner, it will give you an idea of how it will look with a fresh coat of oil base poly.
If you go with a waterbase poly, you will likely need a stain. Waterbase poly doesn't yellow and won't deepen the colors naturally present in the wood. I'm not fond ofwaterbase oly for this reason plus the fact that it doesn't dry as hard as it's oil base counterpart = won't wear as good.
Sorry, one more question. What is a wet thinner rag? Is that paint thinner?
It is a little hard to say from here if you need to use a stain. Keep in mind that oil base poly/varnish will deepen the color of raw wood when it's applied and will yellow over time. After you are done sanding, wipe the top with a wet thinner rag - while the top is still wet with the thinner, it will give you an idea of how it will look with a fresh coat of oil base poly.
If you go with a waterbase poly, you will likely need a stain. Waterbase poly doesn't yellow and won't deepen the colors naturally present in the wood. I'm not fond ofwaterbase oly for this reason plus the fact that it doesn't dry as hard as it's oil base counterpart = won't wear as good.
Sorry, one more question. What is a wet thinner rag? Is that paint thinner?
marksr
09-02-08, 03:18 PM
Ya, a thinner rag is a rag wet/damp with thinner :D
I'm not overly fond of the waterbased poly. Oil base wears better! Oil base will also deepen the colors in the wood. If you are unable to stain the stripped mantle dark enough, you may need to use some polyshades to get it darker - it can be tricky to apply, care must be used to apply it evenly!
You shouldn't need to strip the table top since it wasn't stained. I'd start out with 100-120 grit and finish up with 220. Any hand sanding must be done with the direction of the grain. An orbital sander would make the job faster/easier. Be sure to wipe the top with a thinner rag before applying poly, both to remove any sanding dust and to give you a preview of what the poly will look like - incase you need more sanding.
I'm not overly fond of the waterbased poly. Oil base wears better! Oil base will also deepen the colors in the wood. If you are unable to stain the stripped mantle dark enough, you may need to use some polyshades to get it darker - it can be tricky to apply, care must be used to apply it evenly!
You shouldn't need to strip the table top since it wasn't stained. I'd start out with 100-120 grit and finish up with 220. Any hand sanding must be done with the direction of the grain. An orbital sander would make the job faster/easier. Be sure to wipe the top with a thinner rag before applying poly, both to remove any sanding dust and to give you a preview of what the poly will look like - incase you need more sanding.