Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Newly Refinished Hardwood Floor Question
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kruegs2727
08-29-08, 07:52 AM
I just refinished my hardwood floor in my kitchen. I rented a sander at Home Depot and sanded it twice and then put on 2 coats of stain and then 3 coats of oil base sealer. In between coats of sealer I sanded the floor with a brown paper bag (the guy at Home Depot told me to do that). I let the last coat of sealer dry for 4 days and on the forth day I moved my fridge back into the kitchen. I put towels under the wheels of the fridge to try and cut down on any scratches. Well I think the towels made it worse because the wheels dug into the floor and left these gouges in the floor that are about a 1/4" wide by 4 feet long. I tryed to re-stain the gouges but it just doesn't seem to be working. Does anyone have any idea on how to fix this?
marksr
08-29-08, 04:29 PM
Welcome to the forums!
Are the gouges down to raw wood? Did you try wiping the area with a clean thinner rag? If so, what did it look like?
Are the gouges down to raw wood? Did you try wiping the area with a clean thinner rag? If so, what did it look like?
twelvepole
08-29-08, 05:28 PM
The brown paper bag is simply blowing my mind. Let me catch my breath.
Then, you state that you waited four days after the last coat of poly, but you do not state how much drying time between coats. Drying times will vary from the recommended on the label on the can due to temp and humidity.
Finally, a towel is not the recommended protection for rolling appliances across hardwood floors whether newly finished or not. How can a towel displace weight and protect floor? Finish seals floor. Finish does not protect from weight and gouges, dings, and dents, or scratches.
Spot sanding, staining, and finishing tend to be less than satisfactory as they tend to simply stand out from the rest of the floor. If you can not live with the results, then you must start all over.
Use 1/4" plywood or masonite to protect floors. Never slide or roll heavy furniture or appliances across the floor.
Then, you state that you waited four days after the last coat of poly, but you do not state how much drying time between coats. Drying times will vary from the recommended on the label on the can due to temp and humidity.
Finally, a towel is not the recommended protection for rolling appliances across hardwood floors whether newly finished or not. How can a towel displace weight and protect floor? Finish seals floor. Finish does not protect from weight and gouges, dings, and dents, or scratches.
Spot sanding, staining, and finishing tend to be less than satisfactory as they tend to simply stand out from the rest of the floor. If you can not live with the results, then you must start all over.
Use 1/4" plywood or masonite to protect floors. Never slide or roll heavy furniture or appliances across the floor.
Carpets Done Wright
09-01-08, 07:35 PM
Twelvepole... You and me both.
Home Depot strikes again!!!
Sand it all back down and start over!!! Sand the dents out or live with them, because it won't be long, before you see the peel effect and finish lift in several places.
Home Depot strikes again!!!
Sand it all back down and start over!!! Sand the dents out or live with them, because it won't be long, before you see the peel effect and finish lift in several places.
kruegs2727
09-02-08, 08:57 AM
Yes, the gouges are down to wood. No, I did not try and wipe down with thinner. I sanded the area down and re-stained it but I just can't get the color back to match the rest of the floor. Any ideas?
Welcome to the forums!
Are the gouges down to raw wood? Did you try wiping the area with a clean thinner rag? If so, what did it look like?
Welcome to the forums!
Are the gouges down to raw wood? Did you try wiping the area with a clean thinner rag? If so, what did it look like?
marksr
09-02-08, 03:06 PM
What's different with the color?
Did you use the same stain? mixed well? sanded down to raw wood?
Exactly what's wrong with the color?
Did you use the same stain? mixed well? sanded down to raw wood?
Exactly what's wrong with the color?
kruegs2727
09-02-08, 03:17 PM
Yes, I sanded it down to the raw wood and mixed the stain well. The color came out lighter then the rest of the floor. You can see where I sanded it down. I just can't get the stain dark enough. any ideas?
What's different with the color?
Did you use the same stain? mixed well? sanded down to raw wood?
Exactly what's wrong with the color?
What's different with the color?
Did you use the same stain? mixed well? sanded down to raw wood?
Exactly what's wrong with the color?
marksr
09-02-08, 03:38 PM
You might try staining it again although I'm not fond of applying a 2nd coat of stain. The poly will deepen the color some.
kruegs2727
09-02-08, 03:46 PM
What brand of Poly do you recomend using? I used Minwax and I heard bad things about it.
You might try staining it again although I'm not fond of applying a 2nd coat of stain. The poly will deepen the color some.
You might try staining it again although I'm not fond of applying a 2nd coat of stain. The poly will deepen the color some.
marksr
09-02-08, 03:56 PM
I don't do many floors but have done a lot of staircases including treads and I usually use minwax. There are some better finishes available at your local hardwood supplier - I don't remember the brand names :o
Jan2
09-03-08, 02:28 AM
Wood finished with fine sandpaper doesn't take stain as well as wood finished with coarse paper. Floors to be stained are only sanded to 100 grit, 120 tops. An oil poly will darken the floor slightly as will a satin topcoat.
By the way, sanding with a brown bag is for fine furniture finish. Brown bag is about 2000 grit if I remember right. Between coat sanding of oil poly is a light sanding with 150 grit.
By the way, sanding with a brown bag is for fine furniture finish. Brown bag is about 2000 grit if I remember right. Between coat sanding of oil poly is a light sanding with 150 grit.