Kitchen Gas Appliances - Whirlpool Gold Gas Dryer shuts off after a minute

I have a 2 year old Whirlpool Gold gas dryer (8578164) that shuts off after a minute and a flashing E2 code appears on the front touch pad screen immediately. I read the post about the gas valve and solenoid tests, but thought the E2 code might make things go faster before I take everything apart. The lint filters are cleaned every time, and there was no blockage in the vent pipe going outside. If I have to check every circuit for continuity I will probably have to call someone. Any clues on what this code means?

Check here:
http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/applianceshvac/help-center/fault-codes/fault-codes-dryers.html

Thanks! The post tells me that the E2 code indicates a shorted Thermistor. Im guessing that this is located in the Circuit board of the unit somewhere?

Check your model # it didn't come up, will start with a 110, 417,363 something like that. Number tells the manufacture. Thermistors are located a couple of places dependig on what type dryer you have, Easy repair just need to know which dryer you have to help.

I found the model number inside the door. Its GGW9868KQ5. I could find no mention of a "thermister" in the parts breakdown. Is an igniter the same thing?

Look under consul and find tech sheet. E2 has always been a open thermistor, e1 shorted thermistor either way thermistor is bad. here is a link to your machine
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/retrieveModelActionHome!retrieve.action?pop=true&modelNumber=GGW9868KQ5&pop=flush
Look under bulkhead part 42 or 59 are usually the thermistor but not listed that way in this break down. Thermistor part # from sears is 26 110 8577274 Find your tech sheet and see if it is on it. UNPLUG DRYER A little tricky to open consul. Take a thin flexable putty knife and slide under consul at front corners and push a spring clip back while pulling back of consul to you and tilt front up. Easy to do after you have done 100 or so. Tech sheet should be there. Keep us posted

I will go down and pull the console up to check the tech sheet as you advise, but I want to get this on the wire. I have seen both of the "thermistors" you mention as I have taken the lower front cover off. Can these be jumped individually to check for the bad one? I have a wire with two clips and a fuse in the middle I could jump them with to see if the code goes away, but I dont want to ruin anything. at 15 or 20 bucks each I dont want to order the wrong one! Do you know if these are normally open, or normally closed? My assumption would be that they are heat sensitive and would open if they got hot. If that is the case the bad one should have stayed open and tripped the E2 code?

Thanks !

Okay, removing part reference #42 from the machine lets everything work, no trouble code, igniter lights up etc. Must be normally open fuse. Unless Im missing something, Ill order this one from sears. Now I need to find what let things heat up excessively I guess.

Thanks!

The part is the thermostat Usually go out when the vent to the outside is blocked or restricted. When vent is blocked doesn't let air flow and dryer overheats. Never seen a E2 for a thermostat. Thermostat are normally closed. Part 59 thermo fuse is also normally closed.

Thats strange, I got everything working with the above mentioned thermostat removed and the wires just suspended in thin air. That's why I assumed it must be normally open. I guess the proof will be when the new one gets installed. The outside vent had been tampered with, and the flapper was jammed. No lint to speak of which surprised me.

Ill post back next Tuesday

Thanks for the advice!

Very strange should not be heating with thermostat disconnected. May have a short in harness???

Hello WML13 and Welcome into the Gas Appliances topic.

Most common cause for the problem or condition described is a restricted and or blocked exhaust vent.

Yet you state here:
no blockage in the vent pipe going outside.

Restricted or blocked exhaust vent is the most common cause for that condition and or problem described then it would be for a defective thermostat.

I agree with pugsl:

Never seen a E2 for a thermostat. Thermostat are normally closed. Part 59 thermo fuse is also normally closed.

Above part 59 is a normally closed circuit. Opened only when a problem develops. Most parts like a thermo fuse only fail once and then have to be replaced in order to allow dryer to operate or operate normally.

Disconnected thermostat will and or may (depending upon which quick disconnect set of wires) allow dryer to operate but not have any control or regulation of temperate.

The outside vent had been tampered with, and the flapper was jammed.

Outside vent tampered with?

Flapper jammed?

Most likely restricted and or blocked exhaust venting system to be the direct cause for the problem and or condition you described. If so, parts would not have been needed and all prior work not needed either.

My Two cents...:)

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs or services. Always check for gas leaks whenever moving the appliance and/or a service or repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers. Doing so will more quickly provide you with answers to questions & provide additional information on how to resolve dryer problems.

Web Site Host, Forums Manager, Moderator Hiring and Promotions Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Read Gas Dryer Sticky Note In The Forum Topic For Additional Advice:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481

Im back to square one I guess. I checked the part and it passed a continuity test for normally closed. I put it back in and after about 30 seconds got an E2 code on the console as I got originally. I took it out and didnt reconnect the wires, and the unit's glow igniter came on and gas flowed and ignited. It was heating for about 30 seconds and the gas flow shut down, the drum stopped turning and an E1 light showed on the console. None of the venting is hooked up so the air flow just goes straight out the back for testing, no interference with the airflow. What do I check next?

Sound like a gas coil is going bad. Did you find tech sheet? Look on it for a code E 1 or 2 Whrilpool has used that code for thermistor for every machine I have worked on. Tech sheet may have coil resistance reading on it also. Sounds like coil is heating up than opening.Fairly common problem.

Where would the gas coil be located? there is something mounted on top of the shield that covers the area where the gas actually burns, it has a set of wires plugged into it with a plastic plug. It that it? (I will pull apart the console for the sheet soon)

Look back to the link I sent you and go to burner and there is a break down of gas assy.

Thank you, before your post I got the console off and found the tech sheet. There is a series of readings for using an ohm meter to test the components. They run a 0 ohms for the thermal fuse. A variable set of readings with temperatures,for the thermistor, a 0 ohm reading for the high temp fuse on top of the burner, and a series of readings between the contacts on the gas solenoid connections. I Know how to do the 0 readings..straight continuity, but for the others ,the ohm meter I have has different R readings to set the meter, and Im not sure which setting to use to check resistance for those. If I can get a clue from you for that, I should be able to start eliminating more components. The thermal fuse is ok, the hi temp fuse is ok. that leaves the thermister, and the solinoids and of course the circuit board...

Thanks!

Not sure of your meter reads but if in doubt start on lowest scale and go up a notch until you get a reading. If there is a K at end of reading thats a 1000. meters usually have 3 or 4 scales so to to many to read.

Ive got readings right on the money for the gas valve solinoid contacts per the tech sheet, but the readings for the thermal fuse are confusing me. If you were testing this for variable resistance ratings..how would you do it? It says use a hair dryer, but it seems like you need to make it colder to really test the range. The resistance at room temperature 70 degrees, is not the resistance reading Im getting. Its supposed to be 11.9 RKOhms and Im getting a reading of 6 The reading does go higher if it gets colder ( put it in the freezer) but I dont know if its critical or not. Your thoughts?

Thermo fuse is either closed (normal) or open (bad) Thermistor has variable readings, Your e code leads to thermistor but I can't find one listed for your machine. Tech sheet usually has where components are located. If you can find thermistor I would replace it. Most thermistor and thermo fuses look same from wire side. under side thermistor you will see a small coil between post. Thermo fuse will not have this.

My wallet is lighter, but the dryer is fired up and started drying normally (no e-codes and no shut down) I have to admit you guys had me going with "No Thermistor failure with an E2 before") but everything else checked out. unless it was a mother board, the odds were on my side that it was what it was. ( I never fooled around with an ohmmeter much, now I am an expert!)
Thanks for all the replies!


The washing machine next to it likes to leak water from the top out a long flat flexible plastic tube that threads down the side and out the bottom. Do you have any clues for trouble shooting that? It has done that for 2 years. (I thought it was just normal overflow, but it does it ALL the time. If I didnt have a drain pit right next to it, I would have a very soggy floor. Im guessing that the console pops off the washer the same way the dryer does?

What kind of washing machine? model # needed. I guess it's a GE and tube is in the left rear and it leaks in spin cycle. If that's the case it needs a transmission and brake assy. and tub seal.

Whirlpool GVW9959KQ3. Leaks water out of a long FLAT plastic envelope that runs from the top of the machine (on the inside left of the cabinet as you look at it from the front) It drops water into the base of the machine which runs to the center and out a round hole in the base pan. It does this every time my wife uses the washer. From your previous finder location post I came up with an overflow bag PN 8055135. it is connected to two other parts I can't see (also overflow parts 16, 17, no 18 is the plastic overflow I can see with the back removed. I've relevelled the machine twice, no help. I have no trouble codes or warnings for overfilling. The drain hose goes to a washsink within range of the owners manual height limits. (below the top of the washing machine) Im pretty sure that it is doing this when the wash tub spins to drain it, it just doesnt drain all the water where it is supposed to.

Guessed wrong you have a clypso Type washer.(good Luck) machine is prone to many problems. You will find 2 spring clips about 4 to 6 inches from sides push them in while pulling up on top. Top will tilt back and you can than get to dispensers. Lok on front panel left side there will be a bag with tech sheet in it. It will tell you how to run all the test you will need. I always take spring clips off machine u til after I have finished working on machine. Get tired of having them snap closed every time I havee to lower top.

Thank you for your advice on the tech sheet and the clips. Ill get into that when time permits, It looks like the top of the washer is held in by one screw at the front under the plastic logo, but I cant see what holds it at the back. If its in the tech sheet, you can ignore me for now!

Thanks!

Sorry I was thinking of Kenmore type take screw out and slide top forward a little 1/4 inch or less and than lift top. The top will slide past clips. the rest is the same but you don't have to take off clips.

I took the console off (it came off just like the Dryer console) but there was no tech sheet inside. (I bought this new, so it must have been left out at the factory. Can I get one of these online?)

Tech sheet is on front panel. Lift up top and inside on left front of panel will find plastic bag with tech sheet in it.

Well, you do know your stuff! I found the sheet. Since Im figuring Im getting water out of this plastic bag because something is overflowing, I went to test number six per the sheet, and it says " fill the washer and see if the pressure switch shuts off the water. If the water fills the tub to a visible level (above the nutate plate) stop the cycle" What is a nutate plate? If that is the case, then check ohms across certain pins on the pressure switch. If there is a short, replace it. Im guessing that the switch is under the console and I already have had that off looking for the tech sheet. I guess if you tell me what the nutate plate is, and what is an "unacceptable" water level, I will be on my way, to becoming even more dangerous.

Thanks!

Nutate plate is that big white round thing in the bottom of tub,
not the part that stands up that is only the cap that ides the screws that hold it on.Water should be only 1 or 2 inches above plate. Don't think that is your problem would be looking more to softner or bleach or soap dispensing.

As in a certain female operator putting in too much of any of certain chemicals into the wash cycle?

I checked with the operator, and she swears that ONLY the minimum of liquid detergent is used per load. I moved the machine out for observation, re leveled it, and followed the sheet instructions for water level check and so forth. It hardly put any water at all in the machine above the nutate plate, and washed normally. With the back plate of the machine off, I pulled the clear plastic overflow bag outside and observed it during the cycles. The overflow bag drips a lot of water onto the floor (normally just dumped into the bottom of the machine) during the rinse and spin dry cycles, regardless of the water level. The tech sheet gives no warning code, and no instruction for doing anything other than fixing the pressure switch if there is too much water going into the machine. This just cant be right. Im sure a lot of homes dont have a floor drain right next to the washing machine like I do. (the heavy plastic drain tube goes into a wash tub and is unobstructed. I did have a filter on the end of that, but I even took that off awhile ago, and it made no difference. Clues?

In the tech sheet there is a way to check the dispenser operation you can even have the top open a ways and see if the dispenser are draining ok. Another way to check there operations is that the softner works on a siphon. pour a normal anount of water in softner spot when finish filling the water should go down if not than the dispenser needs cleaning. The bleach dispenser works on a suction valve. In the back of machine near all the hoses is a white plastic 3 way hose connector that connects to the bleach dispenser. Water passes by valve and sucks the bleach from dispenser.Softner most likely one to give problem.

My wife says she has never put sofener in the machine. Bleach once. just recently. Am I still looking for something plugging up one of the two lines to those tanks? The valve you are speaking about in the "back" of the machine...is that accessable by removing the metal plate down near the base, or is it under the console cover too?

All of these are accessed by lifting top up.