Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - water line to new fridge ?
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condo-owner
08-19-08, 06:44 PM
hello, again.
i just installed a new whirlpool side by side fridge. it has an ice maker in it. the wife is making me hook it up. i would like to know about line kits, good, bad, ugly, issues, etc. i REALLY would like to make it RELIABLE. tia :coffee:
i just installed a new whirlpool side by side fridge. it has an ice maker in it. the wife is making me hook it up. i would like to know about line kits, good, bad, ugly, issues, etc. i REALLY would like to make it RELIABLE. tia :coffee:
pugsl
08-20-08, 04:47 AM
How far is it to water? They sell kits at builders store. The plastic tubes are OK I have never had a problem with them.
Gunguy45
08-20-08, 07:08 AM
They also make icemaker kits in the braided stainless now..6ft if I remember right.
Do you have a valve box behind the fridge, or are you going to tap in somewhere?
Do you have a valve box behind the fridge, or are you going to tap in somewhere?
condo-owner
08-23-08, 07:55 AM
it will be about 15' long. it has to go behind the stove (no broiler in the bottom).
the builders of my condo(wish i never bought it) were real cheap, so they didn't install a valve box. i have to tap into the sink supply.
the builders of my condo(wish i never bought it) were real cheap, so they didn't install a valve box. i have to tap into the sink supply.
condo-owner
08-25-08, 06:28 PM
ok folks. i read the directions. it says to use copper line. do i need to ? will a plastic line fit the fittings ? are the fittings a standard size ? tia
Michael Thomas
08-25-08, 07:00 PM
One suggestion I would make based on my experience at home inspections and my rental units is that you avoid the "saddle valve" types of connections which depend on a screw-in tip piercing a water line
http://applianceguru.com/icemakers/saddlevalve.gif
as they are prone to leaking and are prohibited by some plumbing codes (for example, they are not allowed in Illinois).
Instead either install a conventional compression fitting, or use a product such as this one
http://www.dormont.com/dmc/uploadedImages/res/waterline/WLIK%20Installed.jpg
- Dormont Quick Connect Water Line Kit Installation Instructions - Paragon Home Inspections Chicago Evanston Northbrook Wheeling (http://paragoninspects.com/pdf/plumbing/supplyplumbing/fittings/valves/icemaker/dormont.pdf)
http://applianceguru.com/icemakers/saddlevalve.gif
as they are prone to leaking and are prohibited by some plumbing codes (for example, they are not allowed in Illinois).
Instead either install a conventional compression fitting, or use a product such as this one
http://www.dormont.com/dmc/uploadedImages/res/waterline/WLIK%20Installed.jpg
- Dormont Quick Connect Water Line Kit Installation Instructions - Paragon Home Inspections Chicago Evanston Northbrook Wheeling (http://paragoninspects.com/pdf/plumbing/supplyplumbing/fittings/valves/icemaker/dormont.pdf)
condo-owner
08-25-08, 08:15 PM
saddle valve = NO WAY, even if legal.
i'm hoping they will have a t fitting that will go between the sink valve and sink hose. and do i HAVE to use copper line to the fridge ? and if not, will the plastic line fit the fridge fitting ?
tia
i'm hoping they will have a t fitting that will go between the sink valve and sink hose. and do i HAVE to use copper line to the fridge ? and if not, will the plastic line fit the fridge fitting ?
tia
pugsl
08-26-08, 05:25 AM
Plastic will fit if you get the kit at builder store. Should be able to get everything you need there and maybe someone can help get the right stuff.
Michael Thomas
08-26-08, 08:38 AM
do i HAVE to use copper line to the fridge ? and if not, will the plastic line fit the fridge fitting?
There is no problem connecting the correct type of plastic line to the fridge, the only reason you would have to use copper is if it's required by local code. IMO, the plastic line is superior as it's less subject to damage (ex: kinking) as the fridge is moved in and out.
A few other thoughts based on my experience at home inspections and my own rental properties:
IMO the best arrangement is when you can have a readily accessible shut-off valve in the same room as the refrigeration equipment with the line entering the equipment space at an angle which minimizes kinking by directing the line behind the refrigerator in such a way that it naturally forms a loop, or in such a way that you can feed the slack in the line back and forth through a cabinet as you move the equipment.
For example in this very tight installation the valve is located within a 1-1/2" thick wall forming one side of the refrigeration space and the line is directed behind the refrigerator (black, in background) - the valve is easy to identify, and the line naturally resists kinking as the refrigerator is moved in and out of the space.
http://paragoninspects.com/images/plumbing/supply/valve/icemaker/inwallvalve1426.jpg
Also, I notice this is a condo, so you are responsible not only for any leaks in your own unit but also potentially for damage to other unit as well. If there are finished areas below the equipment space, or the flooring under the equipment is subject to water damage (ex: most natural and laminated wood flooring and sub-flooring) I would also consider an automatic shut-off valve such as this one:
http://www.thewateralarm.com/wateralarm/pc/catalog/14-c_1280_general.jpg
To give you an idea of what's involved, the installation instructions are here (1.3 Mb .PDF) Floodstop FS14 auto-shut-off valve for refrigerator ice maker - Paragon Home Inspections - Chicago / Park Ridge / Niles (http://www.paragoninspects.com/pdf/plumbing/supplyplumbing/fittings/valves/autoshutoff/floodstopfs14c.pdf)
I use auto shut-offs at ice makers, dishwashers and clothes washers in all my rental units as wood flooring and sub-flooring does not do well when subjected to even small amounts of water leakage:
http://paragoninspects.com/images/water_problems/floors/parquetdamageman.jpg
and only the sensor type shutoffs will detect slow as opposed to fast leaks.
There is no problem connecting the correct type of plastic line to the fridge, the only reason you would have to use copper is if it's required by local code. IMO, the plastic line is superior as it's less subject to damage (ex: kinking) as the fridge is moved in and out.
A few other thoughts based on my experience at home inspections and my own rental properties:
IMO the best arrangement is when you can have a readily accessible shut-off valve in the same room as the refrigeration equipment with the line entering the equipment space at an angle which minimizes kinking by directing the line behind the refrigerator in such a way that it naturally forms a loop, or in such a way that you can feed the slack in the line back and forth through a cabinet as you move the equipment.
For example in this very tight installation the valve is located within a 1-1/2" thick wall forming one side of the refrigeration space and the line is directed behind the refrigerator (black, in background) - the valve is easy to identify, and the line naturally resists kinking as the refrigerator is moved in and out of the space.
http://paragoninspects.com/images/plumbing/supply/valve/icemaker/inwallvalve1426.jpg
Also, I notice this is a condo, so you are responsible not only for any leaks in your own unit but also potentially for damage to other unit as well. If there are finished areas below the equipment space, or the flooring under the equipment is subject to water damage (ex: most natural and laminated wood flooring and sub-flooring) I would also consider an automatic shut-off valve such as this one:
http://www.thewateralarm.com/wateralarm/pc/catalog/14-c_1280_general.jpg
To give you an idea of what's involved, the installation instructions are here (1.3 Mb .PDF) Floodstop FS14 auto-shut-off valve for refrigerator ice maker - Paragon Home Inspections - Chicago / Park Ridge / Niles (http://www.paragoninspects.com/pdf/plumbing/supplyplumbing/fittings/valves/autoshutoff/floodstopfs14c.pdf)
I use auto shut-offs at ice makers, dishwashers and clothes washers in all my rental units as wood flooring and sub-flooring does not do well when subjected to even small amounts of water leakage:
http://paragoninspects.com/images/water_problems/floors/parquetdamageman.jpg
and only the sensor type shutoffs will detect slow as opposed to fast leaks.
condo-owner
08-27-08, 06:53 PM
wow, that floor is messed up.
i now have a 2 port valve. one for the sink and 1 for the fridge.
i'm going to assume that a compression fitting on the copper pipe will be ok ? i think thats whats on there now. and i have 25' of plastic line and fittings. i am going to loop the extra line behind the fridge some there will be a lot of slack for moving the fridge. i also have a length of pvc pipe to run the line through behind the stove = heat shield.
i now have a 2 port valve. one for the sink and 1 for the fridge.
i'm going to assume that a compression fitting on the copper pipe will be ok ? i think thats whats on there now. and i have 25' of plastic line and fittings. i am going to loop the extra line behind the fridge some there will be a lot of slack for moving the fridge. i also have a length of pvc pipe to run the line through behind the stove = heat shield.