Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - maytag LDE482 is too hot and will not go into cool down

I have replaced the thermostate on the heater coil exchange but the dryer seems way to hot at the end of the cycle.

Clean the exhaust vent all the way to the outside. easy way to check is take vent tube off the dryer and feel air flow there put vent back on and go outside and than feel air flow, should be almost the same, If a plastic vent replace it with medal, Plastic will no longer pass any codes.

I have replaced and cleaned the exhaust, the high temperature thermostat in the heater coil and the low temperature thermostat
in the exhaust and it is still way to hot, seems like there is no cool down

I have never gotten a call for this, so I can't say without speculating. Tenants or other people I deal with maybe have had the problem but never noticed or thought of it. And this is not something I even think to routinely check. Too concerned I guess about the service call and making sure the dryer heats properly. Often people (at least tenants) run clothes through the cycle and only get their clothes out later and/or do not even think that there might be a cool down feature that should be working.

If I got a call for this, I probably would first check to make sure the element is not directly shorted to ground, as that is an easy enough test. Other than that, I'm not sure if some sort of resistor takes care of this or if simply the timer points come off the connection for 240 current, but as in yiour case the points inside do not break contact when they are supposed to.

I am going to ask one of the appliance techs where I buy my parts, what he might be most suspicious of.

..............

I just called the tech shop where they have a crew of guys and office workers and she said all techs are out, but she said she can't recall hardly any of their guys being sent out for such a thing, specifically. She recommended that if anyone could read the wiring diagram, to approach it from that angle. I gave her my 3 ideas, and she said "could be", but has no idea. I'll try to get ahold of one of the guys some other time, unless someone else comes on here with the answer. I'd like to kind of conclusively know, myself.

Ecman51'
Thanks for the reply. Did I provide the Model NO. ?? it is Maytag
LDE482 series 02. serial # 344502-PT.
I have looked everywhere for a schematic with no luck. I too would like to see if there is a circuit board somewhere that has the circuity to step down the voltage during the cool down cycle.
I have taken this dryer all apart and the control switch on the top panel is a sealed unit with no apparent CB, just contact switching(could be wrong). There could be a resistor across the terminals in cool down cycle. I could really use a road map.
Dan.

Usually that is where they stuff the wiring diagram; up there in the control panel. Coincidently, just minutes ago, I passed one the appliance techs in his company work van. Our windows were both down and we called out to each other by name. If you can't resolve this, I'll try to get an answer as to what is most likely. But like I said, you might want to at least be sure there is not some short going on with the element to ground.

The first thing I did was to remove the heating element. I took it completely out, opened it up and inspected all the the support eyelets for cracks, did a continuity check on element and all was fine, I replaced it a few years ago. has to be some sort of step down component in the cp switch when it reaches the cool down cycle that is defective.

Don't remember it your model has one but look for a 4 wire thermostat, That is the temperature control thermostat. It usually controls the temperature for the lower settings but had one go bad and caused overheating. only had 1 go bad in many years, Like I said before most overheat problems come from vent problems. To long, to many bends, resisted, look for kinks in tube behind dryer or dryer pushed back to far and crushing tube.

How many settings do you have with cool down?

Do you have auto-dry cycle with it? What about on timed heat? I know the resistor works with the auto-dry and controls the advancement of the timer, and I can't recall seeing say 2 resistors, only 1.

If not a resistor issue (which I think not), and auto-dry advances properly, - it almost seems like the only thing left to control this is in the timer itself. Timers have the heat wire go through it. You'd think it be simply a matter of the timer, when it hit the cooldown, to simply break contact, and thus cool down.

Do you have a dryer timer that is easy to take apart. Sometimes they are. Then you can see if you have any burned contact points. When they burn they often glue together when contact is made - and then do not leave go (do not open to break contact), when they should. (As a guess I am leaning this way, and would be willing to make a $1 bet. :) )

Apparently some moderator was anal about me using "dishawcues" as my user ID. I asked for directions on how to fix this but he decided to ban me instead. Thanks for the help mr. moderator. So be it.

The low temp thermostat has only three wires. I thought it was the cause of my issue so I replaced it. As for the exhaust, I took it all apart, cleaned it and replaced the flex tube as well. No crimps or squeezing the tube. Good flow.

Here is a link to a picture of the Switch:
http://www.dishawcues.com/control.jpg

When I first looked at the timer it appeared to be a molded construction and not easy to take apart, but I will revisit that and make a better determination.
Don't thing I want to loose the bet, I too suspect you are correct, But would like to be sure knowing this will cost at least $100. Already have $50 into this and didn't fix the problem.

A question dose it still heat in cool down cycle? ecman probably right. If points are welded together would heat in the off spot also. You have a puzzler there!