Lighting, Light Fixtures, Ceiling and Exhaust Fans - Timer Switch for Pool Pump

This seems like a simple installation but I can't seem to get it to work. I am trying to install a timer switch in place of a normal toggle switch for my pool pump.

I have a single line (one black and one white wire) coming into the switch from my power source. I then have one line (again one black and one white wire) from the switch to the pool pump. All four wires were connected to the toggle switch. No ground was connected.

The timer switch has three wires. One black, one blue and one red. The instructions indicated that the red is a ground wire.

Can anyone help advise the proper connection??

Thanks in advance.

Two questions, is your pool pump 240 volt or 120 volt?

What voltage timer switch did you purchase?

The pool pump (Sta-Rite MPRA6E-147LC) is a 1 HP pump and the manual shows 115/230/60/1 (Voltage / Hz / Phase) and is connected to the panel by a double 15 amp circuit breaker.

The timer shows maximum load ratings and lists several things such as Resistive, Tungsten, Ballast, Motors and DC Loads. I assume that I would be interested in the Motors max load which indicates; 1 H.P. 120 VAC , 2 H.P. 240 VAC.

Hope this helps, and thanks for the quick response.

All four wires were connected to the toggle switch. No ground was connected.




Was the oringal switch is double pole toggle switch something like this ??

http://images.orgill.com/200x200/9061953.jpg

If that the case both black and white conductors are hot if they are true 240 volt load

What brandname the timer switch it is and the model number as well?

That way we can able tell the correct connection there.

Merci,Marc

The original switch looked similar to the one displayed. It had 4 screws, 2 on either side.

The timer is and Intermatic Easy Set Timer, Model SS7 Series

The red is not a ground wire, but a logic wire used in conjunction with 3-way switches. Just cap it and ignore it.

All you need to do is connect one of the line to one of the loads, and the other through the timer. That is if the timer is indeed rated to switch one leg of a 240 volt motor load.

Ahh ok .,,

Classicsat got it cover good there but let me add one more tibbit here.,

When you disconnected the old double pole switch and if you have white wire{s} you should have have marked that white wire so that way someone in future know it is 240 volts instead of 120 v netural.

Oh by the way is the pool pump is hardwired or have receptale ?

Merci,Marc

I'm sorry but I don't understand the post from Classicat. I'm not sure which wires to connect to the wires on the timer. In answering French's question, there is no recepticle. The wire (one black and one white) comes directly from the panel to the current switch. The black wire is connected to the screw on the lower right of the switch while the white is connected to the upper right screw. I then have a wire (one black and one white) going from the switch directly to the pump. The black wire is connected to the screw on the lower left of the switch while the white is connected to the screw on the upper left of the switch.

I have not yet disconnected the wires from the switch as I need the pump to continue to run while I figure this out.

I appreciate the help.

I will make it little more clear what Classicsat been talking about.,,

when you disconnect the switch what you have to do is spice up the white wires with wirenut then take one of the black wire to the timer switch { black wire } then take other black wire to bleu wire both will need wirenuts and just cap off the red wire from the timer it will not be need it.


However I try to find the model number of that intermatic timer and it don't come up right can you shoot the full model number again ?
{ it should be on the box that will tell more about it.}

Merci,Marc

I have tried doing the connection that was suggested and as soon as I turned on the circuit breaker, it immediately tripped the breaker.

Oh man .,,

Stop right there for a min.,,

Do you have voltage tester ??

something like neon light tester or Voltmeter ?

I am thinking that you got one of the wrong wire and shorted out fast.

Here what you should do is look at the switch box again make sure nothing is touching anything once that clear { no burn marks }

Next step is that find a pair of black and white wires { common with NM and UF wires like that but in conduit [ pipe ] then it get tricky }
Once you find the correct pair and test which one is line the test light should lit up or voltmeter reading 240 volt range { reading black and white{ it should be remarked anyway } }

Then reconnect the timer as i described above white to white and black to one of the timer lead and other one to load lead.

That should work that way.

Before you reinstall the timer make sure there is no nick or cut on the wire[s]

Let us know how you come out on that one.

Merci,Marc