Patching and Plastering - mesh tape question

I have found that I have good luck with the yellow mesh tape for repairing plaster walls - stress cracks and patching,etc. Is there a problem with this? A lot of you don't recommend using it.
Thanks,
Kmmand

I like the mesh too. If it works for us, why should we stop using it?

Mesh vs. paper!

Paper tape is recommended in a full new drywalled room. Mesh tape is ok for floating drywall/plaster repairs. Repairs that are of the stress nature should be opened, screws and paper tape. Paper is stronger on movement repairs. You just have to be careful on how far you use mesh tape. :)

I also prefer paper tape. If you use the 'sticky' tape, you should cover it with a setting compound like durabond. Durabond is harder than joint compound and will help to hold the mesh tape in place.

the problem with mesh is that its not sticky enough to hold by itself. So you have to either spray glue it on or bed it in mud. Then it almost always cracks out. So you don't have any advantage of time or quality or price over paper.

I'm glad you mentioned the cracks. I'm supposed to correct some cracks in a ceiling today. It looks like they used mesh. I peeked under the high hats.

It's a long living room. The joists and the sheetrock are going long ways. I thought that might he been the reason for the cracks. I thought the sheetrock should have gone across the joists.

I've never had mesh crack on me and I liked it because it was a time saver as far as far as the amount of compound needed under the tape. I'm looking for a good self stick tape.

If you use spray glue, use a respirator. I've wound up with it on my glasses many times, and know I have breathed it. Envisioning having your lungs get glued is a little disconcerning. I did a repair under a window today. The whole area. Moisture damage. I completely mesh tape stripped it out after I cleaned the painted plaster. And after it was all dry and sanded (the paint was pretty glossy) I used spray glue, mesh tape and Durobond 90. 2 coats today and it's dry and perfect; not even a ridge.

I like Durobond even better than ready mix from the pail, as it can be made real creamy and it pulls really well. If you do it well, you don't have to worry about Durobond not sanding well. Where it feathers into the adjoining generally sands okay.

I held my breath and then ran for the door once in a while while spray gluing. You could see clouds of it in the sun's rays through the window. I can't hold my breath as long as I used to. Probably age, asbestos, insulation, lead paint, spray glue, etc. :eek:

BTW, respirators are so effective, they can block out chlorine gas, even. I know first hand from bleach-treating mildewed bathrooms. I can't smell the bleach at all. Not a bit of it. And that is even with the original cannisters that have been on there for years.

I bought some durabond but haven't tried it yet. I've heard good things about it. I'll pass on the spray glue.

I bought some durabond but haven't tried it yet. I've heard good things about it. I'll pass on the spray glue.

If you do not use the glue, only tape out runs directly in advance of where you are mudding. Do not do multiple tape runs, or else it can fall off on you by the time you get to it! Experience talking. It can appear even like it stuck. You can go off to lunch, come back, and there it hangs. Very disgusting.

Mixing it to a nice smooth and non-lumpy consistency is key. Using a 5-gallon pail and paint stir attachment to drill makes it real nice and fluffy creamy. If I do small amounts in bread-type mud pan, I fill 1/2-3/4 and use non-aerator water supply, like bathtub and use warm water. I fill pan over top of the mud, then twist a 2 inch plastic putty knife around in it here and there without really truly mixing it up yet around in it, as that gets the water to the bottom and throughout distributed, then dump out excess water, then mix good. That is MY trick, to reduce lumps, or prevent them, the fastest.

ecman51: The way you prepare the mix sounds good and I'll try that on the next job.

My mud pan method wastes some Durobond, as when you dump out the excess water before final stirring, you are pouring out gray water. But with me, speed is money (and better for my nerves, too.). I'd rather waste a little and not monkey so much with mixing like crazy trying to get rid of the lumps.

Years ago, before I ever used the stuff, this cracker-jack sheetrock texture guy who could really do knockdown nice, told me how he does it and he said to basically mix it, then rather than try to keep mixing and mixing until the lumps dissolve - to let it sit - to soak - and to go out and smoke a cigarette.

Nahhhhh. And I don't smoke any more. (Was 3-4 packs a day in my construction days.)

Others have said to try to put water in the pan first, then add the Durobond. I've tried that too. That doesn't do it for me either. So I've latched onto my method and am satisfied with it.

I'm not worried about wasting a little durabond, especially if it's easier than dragging joint compoud from one end to the other. I just have to buy one of those attachments.