Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Concrete raised patio repair which route to go???
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rickytz7111
07-22-08, 09:14 AM
I have called 2 contractors to come out and look at my patio that is holding water in one spot that is about 4-5 ft around. The first contractor wanted to sand blast and then resurface the whole slab. I think that's what it's called. Another contractor came out last night and wants to put down some bonding material and repour a 1 1/2" slab over what is already there so he can get the water to run off. He will have to build up the outside brick border buy cutting new bricks and relaying them. They are both close to the same price. I just wanting to know which way you guys thought would be better. Thanks for any help
DW Elite Decks
07-22-08, 05:09 PM
I'm not sure how long you're planning on staying in this house, but these are are both only short term fixes. By short term, I mean probably between 1-3 year fixes. That also dependends are your climate variance. Both of these processes are "cold joints methods": bonding two masonry surfaces which cure separatley. Resurfacing will flake off over time and 1 1/2" concrete slab will most likely crack under expansion and contraction.
The only real solutions involve removing the depression altogether. The first and most cost effective is to cut the area all the way out. Fill and tamp the depression with limestone or other small aggregate until it meets the bottom side of the pad. Drill holes into the adjacent sides (of the pad) surrounding the opening and repour the concrete to the same height as existing. A good mason can blend the surface textures seamlessly. The only problem you've got now is the differences in concrete colors. In which case, you could use a concrete sealer/ stain to blend the entire pad. Just be sure to power wash the old concrete first.
The other and more expensive option is to replace the pad altogether. You're going to get what you pay for. It just depends on what you're looking for. The quick fixes will look good for a little while, but most likely won't make it more than a few years, especially if you live somewhere with a decent amount of precipitation and freezing weather.
Hope this helps.
Dan Milford (Dw Elite Decks)
http://dwdecks.com/blog
The only real solutions involve removing the depression altogether. The first and most cost effective is to cut the area all the way out. Fill and tamp the depression with limestone or other small aggregate until it meets the bottom side of the pad. Drill holes into the adjacent sides (of the pad) surrounding the opening and repour the concrete to the same height as existing. A good mason can blend the surface textures seamlessly. The only problem you've got now is the differences in concrete colors. In which case, you could use a concrete sealer/ stain to blend the entire pad. Just be sure to power wash the old concrete first.
The other and more expensive option is to replace the pad altogether. You're going to get what you pay for. It just depends on what you're looking for. The quick fixes will look good for a little while, but most likely won't make it more than a few years, especially if you live somewhere with a decent amount of precipitation and freezing weather.
Hope this helps.
Dan Milford (Dw Elite Decks)
http://dwdecks.com/blog
rickytz7111
07-22-08, 06:06 PM
Thank You for your input. I have had the third concrete guy come out today and he said to do it right it should all be cut out and repoured. He did mention putting tile over the slab and then he could getthe water to run off how he wanted to. What do you think anout that option? Thanks for any input.
rickytz7111
07-29-08, 06:25 AM
I have checked into getting the whole slab cut out and it's going to be $4,700 to get that done. I also looked into tiling over it which would cost $3,800 for that. I don't know which route to go.
ise_disp
07-29-08, 05:14 PM
I have the same exact situation... I called 2 mud jacking guys (raise concrete by drilling holes and pumping concrete underneath the slab). They both said that method could crack the slab.
I called another guy. He said he can cut V-shaped channels and create slope inside the channel so the rain water can drain away. I wasn't sure if all the water would go in to the channel in the first place so I'm still thinking about this.
I am also thinking of another option where I can get a patio cover installed. This will keep the rain away and also gives me shade.
I called another guy. He said he can cut V-shaped channels and create slope inside the channel so the rain water can drain away. I wasn't sure if all the water would go in to the channel in the first place so I'm still thinking about this.
I am also thinking of another option where I can get a patio cover installed. This will keep the rain away and also gives me shade.
DW Elite Decks
07-31-08, 05:14 PM
Tile is not a bad way to go if you can find one you like. Keep in mind, the most important thing is the tile's surface. You definitely don't want any glazed products. They're much too slippery. Also, I'd avoid any that are real porous since they'll hold alot of sediment and be hard to keep clean. Porcelain tile in very conduisive to exterior applocations. It's actually harder than granite and has a dense surface.
Make sure your mortar/ grout and tile is sealed twice and very thoroughly. I'd seal every 2-3 years following. Moisture which gets under your tile and freezes could pop them up.
Before you do anything, I'd call atleast some more contractors for bids. Quote for cutting out and filling seems pretty high. If you call with accurate measurements, you should get pretty solid numbers over the phone. Of course, they'll want to come out before writing up an agreement, but you can always call several first to get price ranges. Concrete is fairly inexpensive and relatively easy to calculate cost including labor.
Hope this helps,
Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks)
http://www.dwdecks.com/blog
Make sure your mortar/ grout and tile is sealed twice and very thoroughly. I'd seal every 2-3 years following. Moisture which gets under your tile and freezes could pop them up.
Before you do anything, I'd call atleast some more contractors for bids. Quote for cutting out and filling seems pretty high. If you call with accurate measurements, you should get pretty solid numbers over the phone. Of course, they'll want to come out before writing up an agreement, but you can always call several first to get price ranges. Concrete is fairly inexpensive and relatively easy to calculate cost including labor.
Hope this helps,
Dan Milford (DW Elite Decks)
http://www.dwdecks.com/blog