Carpentry and Woodworking - Building entertainment console

This is pretty much the look i'm going for:

http://www.boconcept.us/default.aspx?id=75038&ImageID=1042

It's pretty much just a box with 3 doors. Dimensions I want are 96x18x20. I was thinking about just using 3/4" MDF. I'm kind of new at this, so I have two main concerns. First, I'm trying to figure out how the front should open. There will be 3 doors on the front (I don't really want drawers), so I was thinking of just using hinges and have them fold out from the top down. Second, how should I approach the joinery in general? Most of the furniture I've bought in the past that needed assembly had dowel and cam locks which doesn't really seem practical. I want it to look very clean so I don't want screws or nails visible on the outside.

My general plan is a 96x18 piece for top and bottom, 17x19 for the two sides and also for the two dividers going inside, and two 32x18 pieces for the back. One of my other concerns is air/heat since there's electronics inside, so I was going to cover the left and right thirds on the back and leave the center open, and then cut a square in the two dividers inside the box to get some air in there.

I've never done this before and this is the general idea. Hopefully some veterans out there can help me out and point out some mistakes before I make them. I'll post some pictures once I get going.

Looks pretty straight forward. I would use 13 ply oak or poplar veneered Sandeply plywood for the project, mainly for stability. MDF, will be a little more flexible than you want, since it will be hanging. Joinery?? I would use biscuits. I would miter the ends of the plywood to accept 18 x 20 end caps which would be mitered too. This would eliminate end grain on the cabinet. Install a top rail on the inside back to hang it by and cover the back with 1/8 or 1/4" luan, good side in. You can cut rabbets in the back to accept the luan and make it flush. Air and heat will definitely be a problem. You may want to consider a power strip for turning on the units, and install a computer fan on one end with neatly spaces holes on the other end to aid in air flow. You can buy hinges (european) that will allow you to open them from the side and still maintain zero clearance on the stiles when closed. You may have to shop for them. We have found one good place is Rocklers. Another is Highland Hardware. You can google cabinet hinges and probably get alot more.
Good luck with the project, and chime in if you need help or get stumped. We're here.

Sorry, I should have explained this. The boconcept piece is a wall-mount, but I'll not be mounting this on the wall, that's just the look I want. It will be a console, on the ground below my wall mounted flat panel. Will MDF be good enough, or should I go with the oak?

I just don't think you will be as satisfied with MDF. Silly me, I'm just a wood butchering nail driver, with an affinity for real wood, or at least the feel of wood. Now, don't get me wrong, I use MDF every day for trim molding, etc., but you have a decor to deal with as well. How will it be kept off the floor, legs, concrete blocks (oh slap me for bringing up the 1960's). If you don't utilize some sort of legs to keep it off the floor, your doors may not operate properly. Just food for thought.

I haven't really figured out how to get it off the floor yet. I was thinking something like this:

http://www.boconcept.us/default.aspx?id=75220&ImageID=990

or

http://www.boconcept.us/default.aspx?id=75220&ImageID=2040

If you think real wood is the way to go, then I think that's what I will do. I was considering it because I definitely want it to last and to look as good as possible. Should I go with oak?

The Sandeply comes in Oak, poplar and birch veneers, all of which take a finish really well.
Consider making a separate legged frame from dimension lumber, and centering your unit on that. You could attach it from below with angles, so it would be movable or adaptable.

I went with the birch. I'll post some pics once I get going.