Bamboo and Exotic Wood Floors - expansion gaps for floating floor
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econguy
07-15-08, 08:08 AM
Hi
I'm installing a floating bamboo floor (Studio by Teragren), in a rectangular room that already has baseboard heat installed along two of the walls that form a right angle. The bottom of the baseboard heat will help to hold the floor down, as it was purposely installed high enough off the subfloor to accomodate the thickness of the plywood underlayment, cork padding, and bamboo floor.
The floor instructions call for a 1/2" expansion gap on all sides. I couldn't use a spacer next to the walls with the baseboard heat because there'd be no way to remove them once the floor is in - they'd be stuck under the heat. So I just eyeballed the gaps in those cases.
Problem is, I had to hammer the first board in each row (to slide it under the baseboard), and by the time I got half the room done, I noticed the first rows had shifted, so there's no expansion gap under the heat, and nearly a 1" gap on the other end of the row (This is the side with no heat. I'll cover the space with base and show moulding).
Is this uneven gap a problem? I know the install isn't "ideal" since it doesn't follow the instructions, but don't know if it'll work in the real world. If floors expand in all directions, then should the gap, although uneven, be adequate? The floor run is about 10'.
Thanks for any input.
I'm installing a floating bamboo floor (Studio by Teragren), in a rectangular room that already has baseboard heat installed along two of the walls that form a right angle. The bottom of the baseboard heat will help to hold the floor down, as it was purposely installed high enough off the subfloor to accomodate the thickness of the plywood underlayment, cork padding, and bamboo floor.
The floor instructions call for a 1/2" expansion gap on all sides. I couldn't use a spacer next to the walls with the baseboard heat because there'd be no way to remove them once the floor is in - they'd be stuck under the heat. So I just eyeballed the gaps in those cases.
Problem is, I had to hammer the first board in each row (to slide it under the baseboard), and by the time I got half the room done, I noticed the first rows had shifted, so there's no expansion gap under the heat, and nearly a 1" gap on the other end of the row (This is the side with no heat. I'll cover the space with base and show moulding).
Is this uneven gap a problem? I know the install isn't "ideal" since it doesn't follow the instructions, but don't know if it'll work in the real world. If floors expand in all directions, then should the gap, although uneven, be adequate? The floor run is about 10'.
Thanks for any input.
greg.in.maine
08-01-08, 11:28 AM
You did not mention what area of the country you live and if there is extreme/moderate climate changes. If your Relative Humidity/Temperature is something that has drastic changes... you may have a problem!
I assume that you can not easily remove the heat from that area of the room, but perhaps you can? If you can, by way of mechanical joints in the piping or if it is electric heat... you would be best to correct the problem, or start ALL over and ensure a gap of 1/2".
Again if you have humidity changes that affect your floor and you can not correct the problem... then you will have to install some humidity controls (Humidifier in the Winter and Dehumidifier in the Summer). Buy a simple gadgit that is called a hydrometer (measures RH (Relative Humidity) at Radio Shack for 10-15 bucks and keep an eye on the readings throughout the year. If it gets above 50% or below 30% take evasive action!!
Depending on how far you got with your installation - I would suggest starting over by removing the flooring layed... Before doing so, at least remove the screws from the heater(s) that hold the baseboard heat to the walls, then you will have the ability to re-install the flooring leaving a proper gap, and NOT using a hammer to get the flooring under the Baseboard Heat!
Good luck with your project...
Greg (Retired floor installer/refinisher)
Maine
I assume that you can not easily remove the heat from that area of the room, but perhaps you can? If you can, by way of mechanical joints in the piping or if it is electric heat... you would be best to correct the problem, or start ALL over and ensure a gap of 1/2".
Again if you have humidity changes that affect your floor and you can not correct the problem... then you will have to install some humidity controls (Humidifier in the Winter and Dehumidifier in the Summer). Buy a simple gadgit that is called a hydrometer (measures RH (Relative Humidity) at Radio Shack for 10-15 bucks and keep an eye on the readings throughout the year. If it gets above 50% or below 30% take evasive action!!
Depending on how far you got with your installation - I would suggest starting over by removing the flooring layed... Before doing so, at least remove the screws from the heater(s) that hold the baseboard heat to the walls, then you will have the ability to re-install the flooring leaving a proper gap, and NOT using a hammer to get the flooring under the Baseboard Heat!
Good luck with your project...
Greg (Retired floor installer/refinisher)
Maine