Painting - re-painting

A quick question. I'm getting ready to paint a room currently painted with latex. The plan is to:

1. strip the caulk from the trim, tape all trim.
2. remove all faceplates from switches, plugs. Take down ceiling light.
3. TSP the old (but in great condition) paint.
4. Apply new paint. Min. 2 coats.
5. Clean up. Enjoy beer while admiring good work.

Now...the issue here is, is TSP-ing the walls "good enough" to get good adhesion with the new paint. Should I score the walls first with a quick pass of sandpaper? I don't want to prime but I will if I need to.

I never use TSP on the interior. It's a great cleaner but it must be rinsed well! If the wall is too dirty to paint/prime over I'll use a detergent [409, etc] to clean it and a clean wet rag or sponge to rinse/wipe off the cleaner.

Why do you intend to remove the caulking?

Remove swtch plates is good but removing ceiling light is probably over kill [unless you are replacing it] You can loosen the light and let it hang down a tad - makes it easier to cut in :D

Be sure to go to a paint store to buy quality paint :D it may cost more upfront but it applies easier and covers better than most coatings sold at a big box :cool:

If the walls are semi-gloss or high gloss then sanding lightly might be a good idea but if they are flat you don't need to do it.If you do sand make sure you remove the residue completely.That said if you have any doubts about adhesion a good primer is a better idea though obviously more costly and labor intensive.

While you're buying your good quality paint make sure you buy good quality tools,brushes etc as well as even great paint looks cheap with cheap tools.

I think TSP can be useful in a bathroom (hairspray residue) or a kitchen (grease film), but I don't see it necessary throughout a house, unless you are cleaning off cigarette ooze.

SirWired

Thanks for the tips....TSP is out then. I was talked into it by the guy at the paint store, but it sounds like I'm just going to choose not to actually TSP the rooms.

Removing the caulk: The point was to be able to get the paint to the trim itself then re-caulk to create a good and proper paint line at the trim. I don't want any paint overlap from trying to do the trim. Is this more work than it's worth? Thanks.

"Is this more work than it's worth?"

For me it is.... and the caulk should be painted..... but if it works better for you that way..........

I rarely use tape, I'll wipe off any excess wall paint that gets on the base and then after the walls are done I'll enamel the base with a good brush - usually a 2.5" purdy sash brush although a 2" or even a 1.5" might be better for a diyer.

If you use tape it is best to remove it while the paint is still a little tacky, before a paint bond forms between the wall and the tape.