Air Conditioning - run capacitor fails twice in one week on Goodman unit

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jsabe
07-11-08, 10:24 AM
Hi - my unit is about 10 yrs old. Last week my tenants told me there was a power outage and after that the AC wouldn't turn on. We checked out the run cap and found it to be bulging and replaced it (35/5 440V). However, the cap that was in there previously had a lower voltage rating 300-somthing (is this ok)? Now, one week later it failed again. I'm about to go replace the cap as a temp fix, but what should I do to diagnose what is causing this cap to go bad. I'm very familiar with circuits so not afraid to get in there and test everything... just need to know where to start.

Thanks in advance!


tinmantu
07-11-08, 11:43 AM
I'd start by making sure that the coil on the condenser is washed out and breathing properly (power off,disassemble and washed from inside out, not from outside in). High amperage draw will cause the cap to run warmer than it should. 370 volt to 440 is ok. 440 to 370, asking for problems.

HVAC RETIRED
07-11-08, 12:12 PM
Hi - my unit is about 10 yrs old. Last week my tenants told me there was a power outage and after that the AC wouldn't turn on. We checked out the run cap and found it to be bulging and replaced it (35/5 440V). However, the cap that was in there previously had a lower voltage rating 370-volt or something (is this ok; 440-Volt is even better)? Now, one week later it failed again. I'm about to go replace the cap as a temp fix, but what should I do to diagnose what is causing this cap to go bad. I'm very familiar with circuits so not afraid to get in there and test everything... just need to know where to start.

Thanks in advance!
That run cap serves the compressor with the 35-mfd & the condenser fan motor with the 5-mfd with a run cap rated for up to 440-volts.

I carried all 440-volt caps to also replace bad 370-volt caps.
Get the same 3-terminal run-cap with the same ratings & rewire it correctly.

Some causes:
Bad wire connections or miswired.
High voltage surges.
Make sure that the compressor & fan motor call for those mfd ratings, the 440-voltage rating is okay, more insulation & protection against high voltages, even if it called for a 370-volt. They cost a few pennies less so mfg'ers put them in, if it is under warranty yet, stay with the 370-volt.
HVAC RETIRED - udarrell


jsabe
07-11-08, 02:31 PM
Thanks for the responses so far. I went out to the house and put in a new cap and the outside fan still wouldn't turn on. There was a loud humming noise though. So, I took the cover off and pulled the fan completely out to get the serial number and see if I could take it apart. During this time, I turned it upsidedown and some fluid leaked out of the hole the the wires go into. I put it all back together and put the old cap (that I bought last week) back in. After that it fired up just fine. I have no idea if there was just a loose electrical connection or what. Also, what was with the fluid (oil?) coming out of the fan?

Saturn
07-11-08, 03:25 PM
Do not know about the fluid was but it sounds like to me that if you want a fan that functions consistently, you would go ahead and replace the motor and put a new capacitor on it. Your ten year old Goodman will probably loose the compressor if your condensing fan is intermittent.

jsabe
07-11-08, 03:42 PM
can you elaborate a little more? how would the intermittant fan make the compressor go out? Also, do you know ballpark general pricing for a fan vs a compressor? thanks...

julioprimo
07-11-08, 04:22 PM
I'm just guessing here - I will leave the real advice giving to the experts. The condenser fan sucks air from the top of the condensing unit from the outside. This (usually cooler) air blows to cool the compressor and blows out through the fins on the side of the unit cooling the fluid running through tubes embedded in them. If the condenser fan is intermittent then the compressor will die of heat stroke because it cannot get air to cool it or the fluid it is trying to compress. From what I have seen if the compressor is running the fan needs to be running too. If the fan is not running or runs every so often - replace it. Fluid coming out of the motor means a sealed unit is leaking fluid that oils bearings (taking my automotive knowledge into the fray). Hot dry bearings = seized sad motor which leads to a compressor replacement which leads to sad landlord (or unhappy sweaty tenants).

mike n
07-11-08, 06:25 PM
There could be several causes for your issues a loose connection, you probably weren't miswired as I assume you made sure the thing ran before you left it but if the motor had oil running out of it that means it has gotten too hot and it is toast.
Go to your local Goodman distributor they will sell to you they sell to everyone, give them your model number and serial number and ask for a new fan motor and capacitor it is true that you would be better off with a 440v but you are not even sure that the original cap you took off is correct. When your suffering from limited experience you can't afford to be creative let the manufacturer tell you what to put on