Solid Hardwood, Engineered and Laminate Flooring - Transition from Wood to Tile

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Monsterdaddy
07-07-08, 10:48 AM
where the tile is unfortunately about 1/8th of an inch shorter than the wood. There isn't any reducer that I have found that goes down just a mere 1/8th of an inch.

I would use a transition except the tile wasn't cut exactly straight so the gaps would show.

My first choice was T-moulding because it hides both the wood and tile edges and because the profile is so low and smooth.

So I was wondering what flooring professionals would do to use T-moulding? I thought about just gluing the T-moulding to the wood and having the other end "float" over the tile, maybe with a foam underlay over the tile edge to prevent breakage.

Or I could undertake a trick scribing or shaving of one end of the T-moulding to get 1/8th of an inch off. But then it makes that side so much weaker structurally. I probably would need the foam underlay anyway because the tile isn't flat either.

Any suggestions, tips or tricks? Thanks again!


objext
07-07-08, 11:26 PM
How about ripping the reducer to the correct height/width of 1/8" that you need? That, or I would mill my own t-molding with the correct height for each side. This is of course a lot more work and would require matching the laminate wood/stain/finish.

greg.in.maine
07-10-08, 09:33 AM
where the tile is unfortunately about 1/8th of an inch shorter than the wood. There isn't any reducer that I have found that goes down just a mere 1/8th of an inch.

I would use a transition except the tile wasn't cut exactly straight so the gaps would show.

My first choice was T-moulding because it hides both the wood and tile edges and because the profile is so low and smooth.

So I was wondering what flooring professionals would do to use T-moulding? I thought about just gluing the T-moulding to the wood and having the other end "float" over the tile, maybe with a foam underlay over the tile edge to prevent breakage.

Or I could undertake a trick scribing or shaving of one end of the T-moulding to get 1/8th of an inch off. But then it makes that side so much weaker structurally. I probably would need the foam underlay anyway because the tile isn't flat either.

Any suggestions, tips or tricks? Thanks again!
Monsterdaddy,

as a previous poster said "make your own"...

I would take pieces of the same flooring and make your own (flat top profile) "T" molding. Make the leg (part that goes down to the sub floor the same height as your shortest substrate. (in other words, if the flooring lays lower than the tile use that height for the "leg"). Then carefully, using either a shaper table or table saw, make the 1/8" correction off the bottom edge of the flat top profile. Check your fit!! Make sure that the leg thickness is smaller than the span between the Tile and the Hardwood Floor itself... Nail the "T" molding (pre-drilling first) and use finish nails to secure it. When nailing this into place, make sure that the leg of the "T" Molding is neither touching the tile or the Hardwood Floor, the hardwood floor is going to expand and contract with humidity level changes and you do NOT want to put ANY pressure on either the Tile or the Hardwood!

Good Luck...

Greg in Maine