Air Conditioning - I need HELP PLEASE ( compressor)

I am having a hard time figuring out what's wrong with my compressor .

The indoor unite is running and the compressor is not starting at all. I first check all the contection with the thermostah and the I checked the brakers ( every thing seemed good. then I when out side and check the back of the compressor . I took a metor reading there was power going to the compressor. I then turned the unite on again and i noticed that the contactor was not being pulled in . I took a metor reading to make sure that the 24 volts was being sent to the contactor and it was . so I thought that the contactor was bad I changed it and the capacitor . i thought that all the problem's would be resloved but they were not.
When I push in on the contactor the compressor started and when i let go off the contactor the compressor stopped .


can any one offer some help PLEase Iam going to die because it's so hot:wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:

I took a metor reading to make sure that the 24 volts was being sent to the contactor and it was.

Better recheck your reading if you have a new contactor and are receiving 24 volts the chances of it not pulling in are pretty darn small and would involve a bad NEW contactor (possible but highly unlikely). There are a couple of safety devices that can affect the low voltage coming to your contactor. The main one would be a condensate drain pan overflow switch so check your evaporator drain pan for excess water. Next would be a low pressure cutout switch tripped because of low or no refrgerant charge level. I would go back and double check your readings at the contactor. then trace back until you find your voltage the device you just checked past is tripped out. A simple way to check your charge level without disturbing the sealed system is to push the contactor center section in and let the compressor and fan run for a few minutes then simply check the refrigerant tubing if the big one is beer can cold and the small one is warm to hot you probably are OK on charge level or at least OK enough that the compressor should start and run. If the temps are ambient call for service as the system is empty.

Some LPCO's have a manual reset button, usually red. Same with a HPCO if so equipped,

It sounds similar to a recent problem I had. I think that the thermostat needs replacing. If you use a continuity tester across the poles of the contactor (remove the wires first) and press the points closed. The points should stay closed by themselves. The battery in the tester is enough power to hold them closed but not enough to close them. If they pop open, the coil is bad. Did you try the reset button in the thermostat itself? (I assume it is a programmable one) The built in time delay in mine went out. Replaced it, no problems so far. Good luck with it.

I looked for a manual reset button but i was unable to find it.

I check the thermostate and reset it and that had now effect.

I checked the compressor for a reset button and I could not find one.

So I still have the same Problem
the contactor is not being pulled in but every thing check's OK

Some LPCO's have a manual reset button, usually red. Same with a HPCO if so equipped,

I am Still having a hard time figuring out what's wrong with my compressor

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I looked for a manual reset button but i was unable to find it.

I check the thermostate and reset it and that had now effect.

I checked the compressor for a reset button and I could not find one.

So I still have the same Problem
the contactor is not being pulled in but every thing check's ????:wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:


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#4 Yesterday, 02:02 PM

I am Still having a hard time figuring out what's wrong with my compressor

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I looked for a manual reset button but i was unable to find it.

I check the thermostate and reset it and that had now effect.

I checked the compressor for a reset button and I could not find one.

So I still have the same Problem
the contactor is not being pulled in but every thing check's ????:wall: :wall: :wall:






I took a metor reading to make sure that the 24 volts was being sent to the contactor and it was.

Better recheck your reading if you have a new contactor and are receiving 24 volts the chances of it not pulling in are pretty darn small and would involve a bad NEW contactor (possible but highly unlikely). There are a couple of safety devices that can affect the low voltage coming to your contactor. The main one would be a condensate drain pan overflow switch so check your evaporator drain pan for excess water. Next would be a low pressure cutout switch tripped because of low or no refrgerant charge level. I would go back and double check your readings at the contactor. then trace back until you find your voltage the device you just checked past is tripped out. A simple way to check your charge level without disturbing the sealed system is to push the contactor center section in and let the compressor and fan run for a few minutes then simply check the refrigerant tubing if the big one is beer can cold and the small one is warm to hot you probably are OK on charge level or at least OK enough that the compressor should start and run. If the temps are ambient call for service as the system is empty.

When checking for 24 volts on your contactor coil, are you reading across the coil or referencing chassis ground. If you are putting the postive lead on the contactor coil and the negative lead on the metal chassis you may read 24 volts. This doesn't mean that your 24 volt loop is closed or grounded. Like Saturn said, you may have an open in your 24 volt loop like your condensation switch in your drip pan. I'm not an expert just wondering how you read 24 volts and your contactor is not engaging.

Ok I am no expert either where is the condensation switch in your drip pan???

If you can help me by tellin me where that is then I can check that

thanks a lot I finnally feel like i am getting some where







When checking for 24 volts on your contactor coil, are you reading across the coil or referencing chassis ground. If you are putting the postive lead on the contactor coil and the negative lead on the metal chassis you may read 24 volts. This doesn't mean that your 24 volt loop is closed or grounded. Like Saturn said, you may have an open in your 24 volt loop like your condensation switch in your drip pan. I'm not an expert just wondering how you read 24 volts and your contactor is not engaging.

ON my unit the air handler is located in the attic. Under the air handler is a drip pan with a drain line. If for some reason the drain line gets clogged with dust, insulation, etc, it will cause water to collect and inside the drip pan is a switch. I had mine tripped once and i vacuumed the water out and everything was fine after that.

Hope that kinda helps. I don't know what all safety interlocks your system has.